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#1 |
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What would be the easiest temporary solution to disable the side stand switch?
Basically there is two much play in the side stand when it is in the riding position and if I hit a bump at speed the stand flicks down far enough to activate the switch. This results in one, more or all of the following: the engine is cut, the sudden power loss loads the front sending me sliding into the tank whereby some delicate parts of my anatomy are sent to my neck, the spring brings the side stand back up deactivating the switch, the force of the turning engine bump starts the bike, the sudden unloading of the front lifts the front enough to catch another bump repeating parts of the above and inducing a mini tank slapper, the unburnt fuel from the off engine reaches the exhaust just in time to meet some fresh exhaust gas from the restarted engine igniting the mixture and providing pops and flames. I have now got fed up of this. I have already replaced the springs but to no avail. I hopefully will be able to get a replacement soon but until then I need to stop this happening as its getting progressively worse. Thanks. |
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#2 |
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Bungee strap?
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#3 |
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Yeh or cable ties hey Squirrel Hunter ,
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#4 |
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Easiest way IMO, would be to cut BOTH positive & negative wires to the side stand switch. Put insulated bullets on these. You can then cross the wires over so that +ve meets -ve without touching the switch, and the switch is just wired to itself (to prevent corrosion).
When you've sorted your side stand, just re-jig the bullet connectors to restore normal functionality. HTH. |
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#5 |
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I cut the wires and crossed it as a temporary fix until i worked out how the bike was cutting out - it was the actual side stand switch that was part of the fault - doing that might be a solution to get home but i would not recommend it as it may still keep cutting the bike out but actually blowing the ignition fuse as well, the reason is that the side stand switch has a diode in it to stop any 'back current' so if you cut and bridge the wires at the connector your are basically taking the diode out of the circuit creating a new fault!
The best thing to do is to fix whatever is making the stand loose, a temp fix may cause greater and costlier issues, plus the side stand switch does what is does as a safety precaution and if you come off your gubbed as far as insurance goes if you don't fix it right.
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#6 | |
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But I agree it would be a better solution to fix the original problem (loose sidestand) rather than the symptom. Depends on if you want a quick fix, or a proper solution, and how soon you can do either. I seriously doubt insurance would be interested in the sidestand switch unless you were claiming for dropping it at 0mph, or you claimed that the side stand touched down going into a left bend (which could be very nasty if it dug in!!). |
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#7 |
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You might laugh but thats probably what I'm going to do! As it appears the only alternative will be to cut the wires, something I don't want to have to do cause I'm crap at soldering and am not sure on which replacement parts I will be getting.
Oddly enough I don't seam to have the problem at the moment. When I took the stand off I dismantled and cleaned it before reassembly and either I tightened the bolts up more that they were (which I doubt as I checked them before loosening) or the amount of dirt on the stand was having an effect. Now you might laugh about the dirt but there was an awful lot that came off, the problem is part of the bike has been cleaned which going by history should result in me breaking down in the next few days... |
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#8 | |
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#9 | |
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#10 |
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Cheers Blue that sounds good will take a look at that tomorrow.
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