Flywheel removal problems!

[ChrisF]

As title says, having issues with removing the flywheel. I don't have a 'puller' but bought an M20x1.5 bolt as I'd seen suggested on here as it's essentially all the puller is.

Engine is almost completely stripped, and almost ready to split the cases but... problem is stopping the flywheel from rotating while I'm tightening the puller bolt. I used a strap spanner (albeit not a great one) but the flywheel still slips.

Can anyone recommend an alternative method, or maybe a strap spanner up to the job? I don't fancy using a leg puller either as I've heard that they can cause unnecessary damage.

[Seeker]

The consensus seems to be that you need an impact wrench:
https://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302585

and:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VU5KNT_jE3E

Not having tried it but do you have a clutch basket holding tool:
https://ebcbrakes.com/product/ebc-cl...removal-tools/

[TamSV]

The old fashioned method was to thoroughly grease the threads of your bolt, then nip it up as tight as you're able. Hit the head of the bolt with a lump hammer (just a good sharp knock like, you don't need a run up), nip up the bolt again and hit it with the hammer. Repeat until the flywheel is off.


The tiny movement in the thread can be just enough to break it loose.


You didn't need no special tools either. The rear axle would often fit. Aye, them were the days....

[ChrisF]

Going to collect an impact wrench tomorrow.

Cheers for the replies guys, although I'm still wondering how to secure the rotor to stop it from moving as I tighten the puller bolt.

[squirrel_hunter]

I have dabbled in the world of removing the alternator previously. Personally I wouldn't go for the impact gun as a starting point.

You have the right bolt, you just need a big breaker bar and a 32mm spanner. One of those straps will never be able to hold the alternator against the force you need to break the taper. From experience (and I've done this more than once over the years) the spanner and bolt has worked fine. The only failure was in an engine that even an impact gun, heat, swearing, and professional attackers couldn't fix.

Out of interest why are you taking the alternator off? You say you are stripping the engine down... I don't know how far along you are but I hope you still have the engine in the frame as it makes taking the alternator off so much easier as holding the engine, the breaker bar on the bolt, and the spanner on the alternator isn't easy with only one pair of hands.

[ChrisF]

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

I have dabbled in the world of removing the alternator previously. Personally I wouldn't go for the impact gun as a starting point.

You have the right bolt, you just need a big breaker bar and a 32mm spanner. One of those straps will never be able to hold the alternator against the force you need to break the taper. From experience (and I've done this more than once over the years) the spanner and bolt has worked fine. The only failure was in an engine that even an impact gun, heat, swearing, and professional attackers couldn't fix.

Out of interest why are you taking the alternator off? You say you are stripping the engine down... I don't know how far along you are but I hope you still have the engine in the frame as it makes taking the alternator off so much easier as holding the engine, the breaker bar on the bolt, and the spanner on the alternator isn't easy with only one pair of hands.

Oh I wish the engine were still in the frame too

My first full strip, so been semi following a Haynes manual. Suspecting damaged selector fork(s) after a crash a few weeks back. Alternator is one of the last listed things to come off before splitting crankcases... Bloody stupid manual.

I'll give what you suggest a go first, thanks for the advice mate.