No Power, lots of noise.

ok, it looks like my nice relaxed week off work next week and been put of hold till the next time...

I was riding my bike (2001 curvy) to work yesterday morning when suddenly top end power just died and started making a rough grinding noise, sounded very much like it was fireing on the exhaust instead of at the top.
Then on my way home, the last half a mile the bike struggled to do pretty much anything even tickover. The engine was fireing only on the exhaust (from the sounds of it) and was extreemly loud.
My suspicion is... one of my cam chain tensioners has litterally given up, possibly the chain has bounced inside it and then grinded the tensioner flat.
For the last few days is has intermittently made a little grinding every now and again (generally around 5-6k rpm) but I simply thought that it was where my front brakes need new pads, bike pulled in every gear as it is ment to... not any more though.

The only thing i'm wondering is can you inspect the CCT's with the engine in situe on the bike and can they be replaced the same?
I guess I'll need to remove the fuel tank and the airbox to get to everything.
Also is there an easy way to isolate which CCT is the faulty one seeing as there are 4 of them 2 on each side (if i'm correct) unless there is another gear somewhere that needs to be checked as well?

Thanks in advance.
Collis

There are only 2 CCT's. The one on the front cylinder is located on the left hand side under the Airbox and Carbs. The second is on the right hand side of the rear cylinder next to the shock.

Can't help you anymore. Sorry.

Someone more mechanically minded will chip in soon no doubt.

OK, i've had time to go over the bike now and my findings are:
1 - the previous owner(s) were total monkies who thought that the best place for a screw would be in the least accessible place.
2 - my front cyclinder is badly out of time, as it the rear (but not as bad).

The rear cylinder was probably done as there used to be a sports exhaust on the bike at some point but as now it has the original there is no need to have it running is sports can setup for no reason.

so my problem is now, how do i fix the timing errors on the bike without having to either remove the engine or remove the cam chain tensioners?
I've got a screw driver that will fit the tensioner but unfortunately it's too short to be able to do much so could I push back on the pushrod from the chain side and then hopefully undo the little tiny screw hold it in place whilst i reset the cams then let go...
would this work or an i best to simply remove the tensioner?

I dont have the locking tool for it but i'm sure that someone here could reccomend me a way to get around that without having to 1 order it 2 wait for it to come.

Please oh mighty spanner men/women of the org, help me to make the best of the sunshine.

[squirrel_hunter]

Originally Posted by collis

2 - my front cyclinder is badly out of time, as it the rear (but not as bad).

How do you know this?

Originally Posted by collis

The rear cylinder was probably done as there used to be a sports exhaust on the bike at some point but as now it has the original there is no need to have it running is sports can setup for no reason.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "done".

Originally Posted by collis

so my problem is now, how do i fix the timing errors on the bike without having to either remove the engine or remove the cam chain tensioners?

If you need to fix the timing (see above) it can be done with the engine in the frame but you will have to take the tentioners out, though this is not as difficult as it might first sound.

Timing out usually means bent valves, are you sure you are correct on your assumption?

Anyway no you carnt do it without removing the cam chain tensioners.

But you can do it with the engine in the bike

Ahhh I think he means jetting probably, well thats all I can relate to the sports exhaust statement

[flymo]

I would start by not running the engine. If it's as bad as you say then doing so will only cause more damage.

I am a little puzzled how any previous owners would have been able to choose inaccessible locations for screws, they go where they were designed to.

At this stage I'm not convinced we know enough to diagnose a faulty cam chain tensioner but they are fairly easy to remove and check. Do you have a Haynes manual to direct you? If not I would advise you to seek out somebody that knows what to look for, or your nearest garage.

I've got the service manual to hand.

Took the heads off and with the front cylinder at TDC, you could clearly see that (according to the manual) where the cams should be they were about quater of a rotation out or allignment.

Screws that were inaccisable were the 2 that hold the airbox onto the carbs and some of the hose clamps were round the wrong way meaning you couldnt easily get to them.

Ideally i'd rather not remove the tensioners if i can avoid it at all as like i said, i dont have a locking tool for them.

I'd say the bike was jetted yes to accomodate a sports exhaust at some point but seeing as there is a OEM one on it now, I may as well reset it back to normal.
upon turning the engine by hand (via the generator cover etc) there is no obvious noise just the sound of compression so i'm hoping that I caught the problem just before valves/conrod got damaged.

[flymo]

if you remove the spark plugs you should be able to turn the engine by hand fairly easily, use a socket on the end of the crank (remove the left hand engine cover).

Only way to check the CCTs is to remove them and have a look, you should be fine with no locking tool. Worst case you can remove the spring tensioner bolt from the CCT when refitting. If one of the cams is in wrong position then you'll need to remove at least one CCT anyway to align it.

Originally Posted by flymo

if you remove the spark plugs you should be able to turn the engine by hand fairly easily, use a socket on the end of the crank (remove the left hand engine cover).

Done that, that's how i found everything was out of time.

Originally Posted by flymo

Only way to check the CCTs is to remove them and have a look, you should be fine with no locking tool. Worst case you can remove the spring tensioner bolt from the CCT when refitting. If one of the cams is in wrong position then you'll need to remove at least one CCT anyway to align it.

Something I was hoping not to do but guess i've little choice then than to remove the CCT's as I've got to re-position the cams regardless.