Cam swap on curvy

Hi Guys,

I've got injected inlet cams for my curvy to swap.

It this difficult, do I need new cam chains, will it take long and are then any risks?

Thanks

[squirrel_hunter]

In answer to your questions:

1. Depends how experienced you are.
2. No.
3. Depends how experienced you are, budget for 1/2 to a whole day.
4. If you don't do it properly (get the cams out of position, or not to check and adjust the valve clearances for example) you risk damaging your engine. This is expensive.

A good user guide can be found here. I've done this myself on both the Curvey and Pointy model.

Thanks squirrel_hunter.

I have a delkevic slip on and BMC race filter, would I see a large increase in power or would i need an M4 system?

[maviczap]

Here's the step by step guide on how to do it

http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...d.php?t=154847

Its the cheapest way to gain some extra ponies

[maviczap]

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

In answer to your questions:

1. Depends how experienced you are.
2. No.
3. Depends how experienced you are, budget for 1/2 to a whole day.
4. If you don't do it properly (get the cams out of position, or not to check and adjust the valve clearances for example) you risk damaging your engine. This is expensive.

A good user guide can be found here. I've done this myself on both the Curvey and Pointy model.

Sorry didn't see your link to it mate

[Bunkle]

Sorry to hijack your thread Barry, I bought my curvy with injection cams already fitted and wondered what bhp increase I could expect to see once I get it on a Dyno. Its also got a full M4 system, K&N air filter with modified airbox.
Cheers, Dave.

How bloody dare you hijack my thread Dave ; )

This may be of interest: http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28086

It has suggested settings and a dyno chart

[Bunkle]

Cheers for the link, interesting reading. I'll have to dig out the jet info the previous owner gave me when I bought the bike.
Looks like a BMC air filter is less restrictive than a K&N.

[johnnyrod]

The original K&Ns weren't great but the later ones were fine, don't bother replacing I would say. If your bike is already set up for the filter and pipe you have, you won't need any further changes by doing the cam swap, which is just about the only time ever you'll be this lucky. You should see about 10% more from about 7000rpm to the redline, but no loss of bottom end/midrange. Fitting is okay if you can spanner, timing the exhaust cams need care as they have inlet markings i.e. you can't follow the usual marks. So far I have found that there isn't even a need to fit new shims - check the valve clearances but they'll almost certainly be the same with the new cams. While you're in there, if you have rep-2003 camchain tensioners then I'd replace those with the 2003 ones, they work much better and you can release the tension without having to remove them from the engine, useful for the future. Barry, re M4, don't bother, you'll see a tiny difference compared to a noisy can with standard pipes. There isn't really a massive difference between the good ones.