Seized Clutch

[squirrel_hunter]

So on the way back from the NEC, ping I have no clutch!

Got to Stow-on-the-whatever and the lights when red no choice but to stop and stall. Tried grabbing the cable from the engine side, but that's where the disconnection was. Quick call the the AA who came, saw and recovered me back home...

The cable had ripped the holder from the engine side clutch mount. Further inspection came when the bodge repair did not work. The diagnostic is the worm mechanism is worn as there was a lot of free play in the selector shaft. With that removed there was no movement from the push rod so the thinking is the clutch is seized. The lack of movement at the rod and the extra movement of the worm may explain why I had the cable adjusted to the extreme ie both nuts above the engine casing.

So would this diagnostic be correct? Should there be play in the worm and how much movement should I get from the push rod?

I have a spare engine to take parts from; the worm, cable holder and clutch plates. But need a bit of a walk through for swapping the clutch as my manual is awol at the mo. What do I need to do to swap clutches? Can this be done without draining the oil if its on the side stand? And what are the signs of worn clutches that I need to look for, so I can confirm the knackered clutch and check the replacement?

I thank you all in advance...

It takes quite a bit of force to open the clutch by hand, i'd try putting the worm drive on before taking the clutch apart, then go from there

[squirrel_hunter]

They were pushing it with pliers, so I would have thought that would help. They said they would expect 1/8 inch movement max but mine had nothing. However they admitted that they were not bike specialists.

Will swap the worm over first and see what happens. But would this still account for the adjustment I have on the clutch cable?

I would say that if your worm drive was shagged then you would have been using more then normal force through the cable ergo stretching it quicker (needing more and frequent adjustment) and eventually snapping it

Either way, you need a new cable and make sure you get the right one for the bike as the ones for the naked are longer and a pain in the ass to fit to a fared bike

[squirrel_hunter]

The cable is not snapped, the cable mount at the engine side is what broke. Thinking towards seized clutch is if the cluch is sized and I pulled the leaver that force has to go somewhere and ripping the mount is where it went.

Replaced the cable 6 months ago or so as the adjustment was getting anoying and I wanted to eliminate the cable (but it didn't solve it, so I just lived with it). I think I measured them up and I'm sure they were the same but will check tomorrow as for some reason I think I kept the old one. Having said that I did get it from Flowers so its prob from a Kawasaki, is there a simple way of checking if it for a faired or naked?

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

The cable is not snapped, the cable mount at the engine side is what broke.

My miss under standing

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

Thinking towards seized clutch is if the cluch is sized and I pulled the leaver that force has to go somewhere and ripping the mount is where it went.

Yep but the same could be done if the worm drive seized

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

I think I measured them up and I'm sure they were the same but will check tomorrow as for some reason I think I kept the old one. Having said that I did get it from Flowers so its prob from a Kawasaki, is there a simple way of checking if it for a faired or naked?

Yeah...by measuring them up agaist each other, I should have done that

[squirrel_hunter]

Thanks svrash.

Will swap the worm drives over tomorrow. I'm not sure that this is what has seized as there is a lot of free play in it, but your right this is the first port of call.

[squirrel_hunter]

Swapped the worm drives over from the spare engine and would you believe it, the clutch is now working!

There was alot of movement in the old worm and none from the spare. I also have the clutch cable back in how it should be (although I haven't got the adjustment spot on yet).

Also I agree you can't move the pushrod by hand as I had a go with both engines, so there must be a lot of force going through that worm. Luckily I had a spare everything so all this brake down cost was a pint of the good stuff while waiting for the flat bed!

Good on ya mate, don't forget to grease that worm drive up real well and check it every so often and top up the grease if necessary