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#11 |
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The earth connection between battery and starter may show "good continuity", BUT, this does not give an accurate indication of a HIGH RESISTANCE.
Lets say that cable is 7mm in diameter, and made up of 50 strands of wire, if 49 of those strands were broken, you'd still have good continuity. However, try loading that circuit with the current thats needed to turn the engine over and it won't be able to flow enough current to do the job through a single strand of wire. Thats why I suggested giving it another Earth supply, Then you can start eliminating potential causes and discover the real fault. Last edited by Speedy; 15-06-09 at 10:27 PM. |
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#12 |
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Also, Reg/Rectifier is for charging system, prevents bulbs from blowing etc....
If you have 13V accross the battery, that should be ample to crank the engine. There are other, simple checks to do. Connect your Multi-meters' Neg. Lead to bike Frame, Not battery -ve terminal, then dis-connect the +ve connection from starter motor, check voltage to starter motor when starter-button pressed, should be the same as battery voltage. If not work your way back until fault found along +ve supply. If thats OK, then you have either an earth fault or starter motor fault. |
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#13 | |
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Bit of an update...
First of all I'm working on getting some jump leads, beg, steal and borrow at work tomorrow. Quote:
Right checked out the reg/ rec and it shows no sign of wear (I have had one burn up before) swapped it with one that isn't very good but should still work with a full battery, 13.1V. No change still not starting. Decided to check the starter motor as I did last time. Motor out against frame the engine to earth it, clutch leaver cable tied back to engage the switch so I can use the starter button and it spins freely. The battery voltage seems to drop about 2-3V from doing this, I would expect the battery to take some from doing this. So what does this tell us? I infer from this that the starter switch, clutch switch, and starter motor are good. The fault is elsewhere as with the starter motor back in it still trys to start but just give the dead battery click as it drops the battery to 6V. Speedy's suggestions will be done tomorrow. But I'm still open to ideas or comment. |
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#14 | |
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If the frame, try connecting a separate earth to the starter motor where it bolts to the engine or somewhere clean/corrosion/paint free on the engine itself, if it works then you definitely have a engine earth issue. If earthed against the engine when you tried this, then I would say there's a good chance your starter motor is worn and it just doesn't have enough left in it to crank the engine over. Let me know how you get on and what you find! Last edited by Stig; 23-06-09 at 08:23 AM. |
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#15 |
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Not got time for anything as I'm in and out tonight (as it were, so to speak), but I now have jump leads.
Also was speaking to a mate at work who rides a Bandit 12 and he's suggested the starter motor as well. I had it grounded against the engine, one of the clutch cover bolts to be precise so it looks as you may be on to one with the starter motor. Luckily I happen to have a spare attached to my old SV in the garage so I think that ones going to be given an outing soon... |
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#16 |
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OK, well, you see when they "pack-up" they draw a massive amount of current, hence why you're battery voltage drops etc.....
Cool. Well, still let me know how you get on!? |
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#17 |
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Still not fixed.
Swapped the starter motor from my dead SV and it gave the same problem noise's. So I decided to try the earthing on the frame and the engine, both with no difference. But then I noticed the battery was slightly out of its optimum and probably was when I tried the alternative starter. So back on charge it is and I'll give it another go tomorrow... |
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#18 |
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Have you tried the voltage checks yet with S.motor disconnected?
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#19 | |
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Not yet will do that tomorrow.
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#20 |
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Yes, the main cable that goes to the S.Motor is the supply (+ve) from the starter relay.
Disconnect this, connect your +ve lead from your multimeter to it, and your negative lead to the engine/frame. Push the starter button. You should see battery voltage. (NB check battery voltage first, before any electical checks. Then you know what you should be getting. Any less, and it shows you have an issue!) If you don't see battery voltage, bridge out the starter relay and check again. If when bridged you see battery voltage, you can put money on the starter relay being faulty. (On a curvy under RH side panel, Pointy, under the seat.) Let me know how you get on. |
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