Really hacked off with my Brakes

[Dave20046]

Looks like the right kit (if it's as described - ferkin ebay!).
Think of it this way badge, you've had the bike for a good while, done a lot of miles - it'd been a solid bike you're bound to get some bad times. You'll sort it

[Dave20046]

Before you order though I wouldn't want to be responsible for you ordering the thing needlessly- I'd advise waiting for a second opinion.

Also you're going to need some really narrow circlip pliers to get that clip out (I had to grind mine down).
Not sure what you're bleeding technique is but I found tapping the hoses moving the steering from lock to lock, tipping the bike over so the rezzy is the highest point, varying from small incremental lever squeezes to full ones and squeezing the hose between the m'clinder and the reservoir all helped for a rapid bleeding.

you still have the rear brake go get the Z750, you know you want to

My master cylinder has 5/8" on it as well as either 38 or 3B , can`t quite make it out in the dark . As far as bleeding goes I have stried slow lever release , fast ones , tapping , tipping , bucking the bike back and forth , rapping the calipers with a plastic mallet , cable ties , praying to satan and selling my unborn children to do his bidding , Tapping the lines , squeezing the black hose between reservoir and master ........... you name it .

Don`t get me started on the back brake I haven`t used that thing in absolute Months and am dreading taking that apart . This year I replaced the pad pins on the back , drilled the front ones out and fitted new ones to them , new seals on the front and last time I bled the brakes I took it over to Genesismike`s house and it took us a while to get it sorted then .

I ground down a set of circlip pliers about 15 years ago for a job I was on in my Apprenticeship , never used them since but I still have them , I reckon they will be good for a Master Cylinder overhaul Kit .

Wemoto has the master Cylinder kit at £20 as well so will order from them , they supplied me the seals for the front calipers as well as my pad pins .

I might order an M10 x 1.25mm Stainless Double Banjo Bleeder as well for the hell of it , always a handy thing to have in the tool box . Take the double Banjo out of my Master Cylinder , slap the bleeder version in and prime the sytem . Then bleed the Master and try the calipers next and see if that improves any . Will get a MC overhaul kit ordered as well seeing as I`ve done just about everything else to the brakes lately .

How about removing calipers. Putting spanner or wood between the pads and holding them above the master cylinder. Air is meant to rise to the highest point then bleed as normal. Its worked for me on a few difficult cases. Not always bikes.

Originally Posted by xXBADGERXx

When the nipple is cracked open it can actually suck air past the threads and into the bottom of the bleed nipple and back out into the bleeding system , giving the appearance of air in the system , the giveaway is lots of teeny tiny air bubbles in rapid succession that look a bit frothy .

Yep ive bleed about 5 or 6 bikes and they all do this, was confused the first time. I find bikes with aftermarket lines that are straight through are very easy to bleed, and the ones that split are complete *******s to bleed!

I just keep sucking loads of fluid through quickly, pumping the brake lever tying it up, then repeat it all over again. I sometimes take them off and rotate everything in different postions to free any trapped air, like the poster above.

Badger, silly question here, is the piston actually moving ok?
Could it be the system is air free, but piston not functioning correctly?
Does it get firmer if you pump the lever like in a car?
Sorry if this has been asked before.

Phil

I've just fitted new SS lines and SS nipples to my K3. Bleeding was a pig until wifey came to help filling and pumping. I used a giant syringe on the nipple to suck through first and now everything is hard so to speak. next week its the rear!!!

MM