Going straight(brake disc straighting)

[Stu]

Originally Posted by Blue_SV650S

Cool, so i'll bin the 'dished' one and give them a ring about the bent ones. I like the idea of 'sorry mate we couldn't fix it, so no charge' ... as long as I get a quote and say 'don't go over that' then I can't loose?!?!

I'd like to think I can get some legitimately straight ones for the sort of case we are talking here though ... if they work out at say £40 ea in reality, that is £80 for a pair ... I'd rather just have some straight ones

You do know it's £30 a pair?

Sorry to hear you've had bad experience from ebay. When I got a bent yokes got a full refund & got to keep the scrap so was worth taking them to M/L. And in my experience ML don't bump up the price no matter how bad the s*** is that you take/send them.

Originally Posted by Stu

You do know it's £30 a pair?

Sorry to hear you've had bad experience from ebay. When I got a bent yokes got a full refund & got to keep the scrap so was worth taking them to M/L. And in my experience ML don't bump up the price no matter how bad the s*** is that you take/send them.

ah right £30pair is reasonable ... but say £10p&p each way and we are looking at £50 ... but if I send off all my discs, the P&P per unit lessens ... I'll weigh the discs and do the maths

I have a bent yoke or 3 I could send them too!!

[Stu]

Can't help you on what ML charge you for return postage, but Payperdrop on ebay £5.99 for
MAXIMUM DIMENSIONS ARE 120cm x 60cm x 60cm.
MAXIMUM WEIGHT IS 31.5 KG.
Ins. £100
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UK-1-2-DAY-COU...QQcmdZViewItem

[NedSVS]

Quote:
Originally Posted by NedSVS
I've succesfully straaightened two sets of discs now; both bent due to crash damage. My experience has been that the carrier gets bent and the rotor itself is still a flat disc, but I suppose there are exceptions. I work with the disc bolted to a spare wheel and using an engineers DTI (dial test indicator), placing the wheel on a spindle in V blocks. I "clock" the runout on the inner edge of the rotot and bend the rotor straight by hitting it with a hammer and piece of soft wood (to stop damage). Final tweaking i do with an adjustable spanner adjusted to fit the thickness of the disc and the use this as a lever. Sounds crude, but it does work! The downside - it takes lots of time and patience. I have succesfully trued discs to about 0.1mm runout working like this.

Do you fancy doing a few more?!!??

To be honest NO! It's not a fun job and takes a lot of time and patience (but is by no means impossible). I was hinting at you having a go for yourself, if you could borrow a dial gauge. I work in a Black & Decker workmate with the wheel between the open jaws and using engineers V blocks but I'm sure you could improvise.

Originally Posted by NedSVS

To be honest NO! It's not a fun job and takes a lot of time and patience (but is by no means impossible). I was hinting at you having a go for yourself, if you could borrow a dial gauge. I work in a Black & Decker workmate with the wheel between the open jaws and using engineers V blocks but I'm sure you could improvise.

I don’t have access to any of that cool stuff, but oh, yes, I have improvised!!

My Black & Decker was 2 old stools a set width apart ... my V-blocks were ... couple of nuts ... and my dial gauge was a pencil taped to a right angle 'level'

I realized I was probably piddling the wind a bit and there is only a certain amount of times you can bend a bit of metal before you suffer either failure or reduced strength due to metal fatigue so stopped ...