Non Starter For The Final Time

[Speedy]

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

Not sure if I'm doing the Ohms test right, what scale should I be using?

However running a jumper from the -ve to the engine gave me an interesting result... The starter was turning without giving me dead battery clicks from the relay. But alas it wasn't firing. Will try again tomorrow but I think this is looking good.

YES!!!

This is looking promising!!!!

Ohms scale, what have you got? I'd use, if you have a 'meter that goes this low, either 10 or 20.

BEFORE you do the resistance check, meant to mention this, set the 'meter to your desired setting on the Ohms scale, hold the leads apart. Make a note of the reading you get.

This is the reading that indicates a HIGH resistance.

If you get this when doing your checks, you know you have a broken/damaged earth.

However, if the earth is still in contact, you may get a resistance reading. But like I said in the last bit I wrote, shouldn't be any more than 0.5 Ohms.

Good Luck!!!

I'm glad you're making progress now!!

[21QUEST]

SH, I've only just skimmed thread...and I'm no good with electrics anyway hehe but have a look HERE....might be useful to you.


Ben

[Speedy]

Originally Posted by 21QUEST

SH, I've only just skimmed thread...and I'm no good with electrics anyway hehe but have a look HERE....might be useful to you.


Ben

Interesting....

You said with yours that it was turning over, cranking the engine I mean, but just not firing!?

With a direct supply to the starter, it will only crank the engine, not give power to the coils.

[squirrel_hunter]

Update time...

With some proper jump leads going from the -ve to the engine. It turns as before but alas it does not start, same as before.

Checking the continuity of the main engine earth shows all good.

So I've started checking the rest of the wires for continuity. So far I've only done a few as work/ life stuff is getting in the way with my time but -ve to ECU is good. As are ECU to front coil both wires and ECU to rear coil both wires. Pulse Generator to ECU is also showing good and following the Bible tests I think the Pulse Generator can be ruled out to.

Now while reading the Bible to find the best way to attack the ECU I read about the Pulse Generator and testing the Coils. I've tested the Pulse Generator so I think it might be worth testing the Coils, so I'll pick up some new plugs tomorrow and hopefully get going with that.

Will also follow the rest of the wires from the ECU out to the switches and wherever they may take me as I hope its going to be a broken wire somewhere like Ben had.

But I'm starting to wonder, ECU? I've got a spare off the other bike along with the Coils should I need them. Not robbed that bike for the plugs yet as I'm hopping not to have to tamper with it to much. But thoughts as ever are very welcome.

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

Update time...

With some proper jump leads going from the -ve to the engine. It turns as before but alas it does not start, same as before.

Checking the continuity of the main engine earth shows all good.

So I've started checking the rest of the wires for continuity. So far I've only done a few as work/ life stuff is getting in the way with my time but -ve to ECU is good. As are ECU to front coil both wires and ECU to rear coil both wires. Pulse Generator to ECU is also showing good and following the Bible tests I think the Pulse Generator can be ruled out to.

Now while reading the Bible to find the best way to attack the ECU I read about the Pulse Generator and testing the Coils. I've tested the Pulse Generator so I think it might be worth testing the Coils, so I'll pick up some new plugs tomorrow and hopefully get going with that.

Will also follow the rest of the wires from the ECU out to the switches and wherever they may take me as I hope its going to be a broken wire somewhere like Ben had.

But I'm starting to wonder, ECU? I've got a spare off the other bike along with the Coils should I need them. Not robbed that bike for the plugs yet as I'm hopping not to have to tamper with it to much. But thoughts as ever are very welcome.

If your gonna rob spares go with the ECU as it is simple to change. Just to rule it out and will save you lots of testing.

[squirrel_hunter]

Was thinking that. However before I do, just wondering, how do you know if an ECU is faulty and what causes it?

I wouldn't want to swap a damaged one for a new one if only to damage the replacement due to something else.

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

Was thinking that. However before I do, just wondering, how do you know if an ECU is faulty and what causes it?

I wouldn't want to swap a damaged one for a new one if only to damage the replacement due to something else.

Check the voltage to it is about all you can do. I think as its just a sealed unit. If voltage to it is okay i don't see what else you can do.

[Speedy]

Well if its cranking over now, with jump leads used for engine to -ve (earth supply) on battery, and it wasn't before, you MUST have an earth issue!!

[squirrel_hunter]

Well its back.

I gave up trying to fix it myself and called in ArtDeans. They picked it up and diagnosed a duff battery caused by the reg rec going again. As its only 3 months old got it replaced free of charge along with a free battery they had in the workshop, I'll take the other one back to where I got it, and I've not been charged any money.

Big thanks to everyone for their replies and suggestions. Speedy theres a pint for you at the AR. Big thanks to Strechie who has lent me his bike for the past few weeks to keep me mobile.

Now the problem... Having not ridden the bike for over a month I need to get used to it again and it has a flat front tyre. Could just be from it standing but it does need replacing and if I had been riding it I would have done it by now. I leave for the AR tomorrow. Do I pump it up and hope for the best or get a new front tyre for it and scrub it in on the way up and on the ride?

[dizzyblonde]

Flat as in flat eric, or flat just slightly deflated?
whats the tread like?