Clutch start wrong way round

Hi All,

The pull clutch start feature on my SV is the wrong way round since the headstock bearings were replaced last week. I thought it was just the cable plugged in the wrong way round but changing it round made no difference.

Rather annoying I only found this out today when someone came to view the bike (Sorry Dean!)

Does anyone know what I should be looking for?

The other thing is while on the test ride he noticed the throttle is very twitchy / sensitive. I dont notice it but I do remember moaning about it when I first got the bike in 09. Is this normal or is there something wrong with my SV?

The bike is up for sale at the moment and I want it to be right when people come to view it naturally.

cheers
Ian

Evening,

It sounds like you're referring to the switch so that you have to pull in the clutch lever to start the bike. It's a safety mechanism. I bypassed mine as I found it more of a hassle than anything. Bypassing it has had no effects I can see other than the bike can start without the clutch pulled in. If you take out your clutch lever, you should find the switch in there. It could be in backwards or something. Have a play around.

With the throttle being sensitive. Maybe he is a little heavy handed. If he's been used to a different sort of engine before that is. An Inline 4 or something has different characteristics to the V-Twin. If you suddenly open or close the throttle with the twin it will jump a little. Once you get used to it, you smooth it out a bit.

Nothing sounds out of the ordinary apart from the clutch switch.

Agreed with that, I let my bandit riding friend have a go on mine and she was brutal with the throttle, thats how you ride the bandit apparantly, but the Vtwin likes a lighter touch, once it has taken up drive you can roll on but if you just snap the throttle open from over-run (she was loving the crackling exhaust) it will shunt forwards with the subtlety of a hammer blow... Not good for the drivetrain/cush drives.

Bypassing the clutch switch makes the bike run in a neutral ignition map. The bike needs to see the clutch pulled in to set the individual gear and ignition maps. The neutral map is retarded to prevent damage from over-revving while not in gear.

Throttle could simply be too much or too little slack or depending on what miles the bike has done, TPS or throttle body balance.

Thanks all ,

Bike has just under 21k. Will put a bit of slack in the throttle cables today to see what it's like.

The clutch switch is working, it's just the wrong way round. when I pull in the clutch the bike refuses to start. When I let go, it starts.

Asked Steve and he suggests when the headraces were changed (unless you did them) they may have broken the wires to the switch when working on the bike and then re-connected them but the wrong way around so id check the wiring from the plug switch under the lever back through to where it joins the loom. The old switches could be plugged in around the wrong way but not the new type.

clutch switch sorted, rather embarrasingly I had the switch the wrong way round.... why I had flip up levers fitted, they did not have the groove in them that pulls the switch on/off. so i pulled the switch off, swung it round so that it was always pulled in if that makes sence.. dohnut

all working fine now thanks Sarah.

Now looking at the throttle / return cables.

Ah result, was going to mention that as saw your advert for the levers and said you had bypassed the switch to use them!.

Checked the TPS this evening thanks to the TPS 'how to' : http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=55459

Line was in the upper position before the engine was started and also at idle. Set it back a bit and now it moves up at just under 1500rpm.

Will take the bike out in the morning to see if it is any less twitchy.

[squirrel_hunter]

Originally Posted by SV650Racer

Bypassing the clutch switch makes the bike run in a neutral ignition map. The bike needs to see the clutch pulled in to set the individual gear and ignition maps. The neutral map is retarded to prevent damage from over-revving while not in gear.

Does this apply to Pointy and Curvey models?