Starter Clutch Failure

Hey guys, I've got the same problem as the mentioned OP. I drained all the oil and took the cover off and found the same exact thing as the image provided earlier.

What I'd like advice on, is what is the easiest way of replacing that starter clutch gear / flywheel ring? Seems to me that all you do is undo the allen bolts and slide it out and pop a new one in, or is there more to it?

Also, where is the cheapest place or maybe one of you gentleman, I can get that gear / ring? Or am I up on buying a whole new starter clutch kit?

Thanks for the help in advance, didn't mean to steal your thred but didn't want to start a new one since this one is still active!

LilF350.

[yorkie_chris]

You need to take flywheel off.

I have one of those gears if you want.

[muzikill]

And you'll need the rotor removal bolt/tool which I can send. Is the bolt on the rotor the reverse one guys?

[yorkie_chris]

No it's RH thread.

You need M20 fine bolt to remove.

[muzikill]

Looking at the list of your topics, you dont half get some bike probs btw....

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

You need to take flywheel off.

I have one of those gears if you want.

Okay, I assume the flywheel is the thing secured with the allen bolts correct? Im new to motorcycles so bear with me! Now you also mentioned id need the m20 to remove those bolts right? Seems too easy to be true ahem. I also need a gasket for that cover as well.

Thanks for the support guys.

[muzikill]

No its not, its held in by the rotor in front of it. The rotor is held in by that big bolt in the middle which you remove and you remove the rotor over something called a woodruff key by using the M20 fine pitch bolt which you screw into the hole where you removed the rotor bolt which pushes the rotor off.
Read the official engineers manual on all of this. You dont touch those allen bolts btw!

Im sure you have to take the cover off the other side because you need to jam the shaft on the other side to stop the rotor turning because that bolt in the middle is torqued to the max

[squirrel_hunter]

Originally Posted by muzikill

Im sure you have to take the cover off the other side because you need to jam the shaft on the other side to stop the rotor turning because that bolt in the middle is torqued to the max

I wouldn't do that.

From memory here the other side is the idle gear and although it is a reverse thread its torque setting is much less then the alternator side.

It is possible to remove the alternator with the engine in or out of the frame using the method detailed here.

But please remember to torque the rotor bolt back up properly. Its 120nm which the last time I did it was all of my down force on the torque wrench against all of Stretchie's down force on the spanner. Luckily Stretchie has far more down force then me...

Oh and one more thing, drain the other gallery.



You don't want this floating around your engine do you?

[muzikill]

Squirs right I remember using a monster spanner on the rotor shaft in the middle to stop it spinning, its got flat edges so you can do it and remove the bolt.

Originally Posted by muzikill

No its not, its held in by the rotor in front of it. The rotor is held in by that big bolt in the middle which you remove and you remove the rotor over something called a woodruff key by using the M20 fine pitch bolt which you screw into the hole where you removed the rotor bolt which pushes the rotor off.
Read the official engineers manual on all of this. You dont touch those allen bolts btw!

Im sure you have to take the cover off the other side because you need to jam the shaft on the other side to stop the rotor turning because that bolt in the middle is torqued to the max

I took the bolt off pretty easy, I had channel locks and held the shaft with indents and used the ratchet to take that bolt off. Pretty easy actually.

So now I will try and take that rotor off with that tool you guys mentioned or I'll find something around to implement that.

Anyone in the U.S around California that has the gear I need?

Thanks,
F350