HELP QUICK! Closed brakes

[5hort5]

lol - very true m8, very true and tbh I prefer working on my own bike after what I have discovered and learned about it whilst doing work. If I hadn't worked on it myself I would never have uncovered the horrors it had and would most likely got the "but I was only doing X job" attitude from a mechanic. I'm happy I have taken the plunge but like I said on another thread, there is no way I would have started any of the stuff without the help here.

[rictus01]

Oh don't get me wrong, some very useful basic stuff to be had off the site no doubt, I rarely comment on it these days as I did 7 or 8 years ago.

But it does worry me when it's evident people haven't done what I would have considered basic homework before unbolting things, by all means ask questions, read manuals or seek advice from someone you know and trust, but do it before working on the bike, be sure what you are doing and why, blind faith in the internet to sort all your problems is a dangerous thing.

Cheers Mark.

[5hort5]

That's a fair point - research is good but I am a beginner having never done any of this stuff before (just read my posts) and I do look at the forum as a good source for answers and am willing to give it a go. I did say I would never touch my brakes and have and tbh it's worked out 66% ok (back brakes don't work for toffee) but I brought this bike to work on and learn. I think as long as you do your research, do the work and then test it, and also be mindful of what has been done whilst riding so you know what to expect if it goes wrong than give it a go?

[squirrel_hunter]

Originally Posted by davepreston

squirel get your ar5e down there and show that boy the basics ffs

Unfortunately I am with drink at the moment.

However if he needs a hand finishing up tomorrow or just giving it a quick look over to make sure its back together correctly then he knows all he has to do is ask...

[rictus01]

wise enough, however the thing that worries is those that know no better and presume it's worked only to find fast into a corner they didn't bleed the brakes properly or test them, perhaps not something you'd do, but it's happened before and will again. the excuse than the bloke on the site didn't tell me that and I didn't ask isn't very comforting from casualty.....

understanding or someone watching over wouldn't allow that to happen.

Cheers Mark

I think its best tounderstand how something works first before fixing it, or at least be 100% confident you understand it before moviing on to something else. I wouldnt be happy reading from a manual and fixing then something if i didn't understand how it worked after i had finished.

As an example, the worm drive, i kept reading how to adjust it, but i first wanted to understand how the whole mechanism worked. Only when i was confident i knew what was going on id fix it and move on.

The sv parts list pdf is a great way to see how all the bits go together before starting something.

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by allantheboss

Yeah I get it. When 20-23 are in, the axel isn't pulled all the way rear, it's sorta sat in the middle of the swingarm holes (so it can slide a bit forwards, or backwards). Should it be so that it is pulle up tight to the rear of the holes on either side?

And, how do I check the chain slack/tension is correct?

You can't put the axle in without fitting 20-23 first, the axle goes through the hole in #20
(use your loaf, think logically about what part is doing what!)

That forward-backward sliding is how you adjust the chain, it will be somewhere in the middle. Obviously moving one side more than the other will put the wheel off to one side.

Ok last time; put it back together, hit the wheel forward with your knee to ensure the axle is as far fwd as the adjustment of bolt #23 will allow it. Tighten the axle nut.

Once you've tightened the nut it is clamped as a solid assembly, 65Nm on a bolt that pitch is a ****load of force clamping everything together.

I would really suggest you buy a haynes manual or get someone local to take you through the basics.

But the chain; should have about 30mm of up and down free play. If you move either of the adjusters then move the opposite one the exact same amount. But from what I've heard so far I'd say put it back together and take it to a mechanic to get the chain checked.

Originally Posted by rictus01

life is risk management, some just manage more wisely than others......

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

You can't put the axle in without fitting 20-23 first, the axle goes through the hole in #20
(use your loaf, think logically about what part is doing what!)

That forward-backward sliding is how you adjust the chain, it will be somewhere in the middle. Obviously moving one side more than the other will put the wheel off to one side.

Ok last time; put it back together, hit the wheel forward with your knee to ensure the axle is as far fwd as the adjustment of bolt #23 will allow it. Tighten the axle nut.

Once you've tightened the nut it is clamped as a solid assembly, 65Nm on a bolt that pitch is a ****load of force clamping everything together.

I would really suggest you buy a haynes manual or get someone local to take you through the basics.

But the chain; should have about 30mm of up and down free play. If you move either of the adjusters then move the opposite one the exact same amount. But from what I've heard so far I'd say put it back together and take it to a mechanic to get the chain checked.

I know the axel goes through it, some people on this thread seem to think I'm a ******* idiot, and are answering questions I didn't ask! I was asking to whether the adjusters were meant to be in a particular position. I wanted to know if the 65Nm that is stated in the manual is enough to not let it slide (which now I know, is). I thought it would be, but I was clarifying to make sure I haven't missed anything out.

So I have no problems there now, thank you yorkie_chris for the info.

As for the chain, thanks, Ill think of that and refer to what the manual says, and get squirrel to check it later. Thank you again yorkie!

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

Carternd those pad retractors look interesting. Have you or anyone else used them?

Allan how comfortable are you bleeding the brakes if you have to?

No, I just remembered seeing them in the Haynes Motorbike Maintenance Techbook and Googled! Got to be better than risking your pads with a screwdriver or similar.