higher compression - how would it affect A/F?

[squirrel_hunter]

Originally Posted by barwel1992

what do you mean ? i had them in before, running factory pro 70/35 midrange stacks

Was just interested to know what you were using and what benefit you got from them?

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Well you have a few things on the go, could also be something daft like TPS needs doing. Or nothing at all and you got a whiff of petrol left over from cold start that just vaporised.

If it feels to run alright then pop it on a dyno and run it up, see what you get.

tps wasn't done that long ago, will be taking it to stevejordan at some point to remap the stock ecu, but just wondering if something is up at the moment (ps aparently the pair system can f*k with A/F readings so going to remove that at some point.

Originally Posted by squirrel_hunter

Was just interested to know what you were using and what benefit you got from them?

ahh ok they move the power band more in to the mid range, but still add a little on top end as well.

to be honest i dont think they would work that well with the stock air filter as the filter plastic around the element covers half of the front stack, so to me looks like the filter been there would hinder performance of the stack, going to get a BMC filter though for the remap and run that over stock with a desnorkled box.

[yorkie_chris]

PAIR is as far as I know only open on overrun, so not really going to do anything to the AF unless it sticks, and then not much.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

PAIR is as far as I know only open on overrun, so not really going to do anything to the AF unless it sticks, and then not much.

ohh ok, some one on sv rider said it made a fair bit of diff so suppose his was probs faulty

Well if it's any consolation, I was just told by DynoJet that I should have the PAIR disabled while using their autotune module. Here's the email they sent me.

Yes, the Auto-tune installation recommends blocking the PAIR valve. If you do not, the Auto-tune will tune the bike overly rich in many areas.

We also recommend welding the o2 sensor 6-10” from the head. This would be ideal, but not absolutely necessary for accurate tuning. As long as the sensor is closer to the head than the muffler or a catalytic converter then it should read AFR fine.

Depends on how far you have gone with the compression and what else you have done. Generally our tuned ones go off rich through the midrange after the work but no two bikes are the same. Variances in the stock fueling and injector flow rates play a part too.

Tbh if you have done that work don't guess, get and air fuel run done. I've actually got a graph from a stock gsxr which we mapped last week, 10bhp gain. Shows how far out even a stock bike can be.

Originally Posted by SV650Racer

Depends on how far you have gone with the compression and what else you have done. Generally our tuned ones go off rich through the midrange after the work but no two bikes are the same. Variances in the stock fueling and injector flow rates play a part too.

Tbh if you have done that work don't guess, get and air fuel run done. I've actually got a graph from a stock gsxr which we mapped last week, 10bhp gain. Shows how far out even a stock bike can be.

8-10thou middle layer of gasket job, busa pistons,stock system with stubby slip on (i know its pants for power but i like it so its staying), 70/35 velocity stacks,billet tank risers,High lift exhaust (curvy intake)

thats it i think

i know it needs tuning thats evident (soft top end) but if its over fuelling then i was going to pull the snorkle for now to get some more air in until i have the cash for the dyno (and the other thing i messaged you about)