Another handlebar thread

My bad

I got mine done a few months ago,wow,what a difference,casual style riding,no more sore wrists or back

On full lock the bars hit the screen & tank!

I trimmed the screen on both sides to even it out,think it only hit the right side! Both brake lines were ok,just needed a longer clutch cable.

Defo recommend it,transforms the bike

Some good info on that pointy thread, despite it not being a curvy it's interesting to see what cabling problems people have run into.

Aquila, depending on the angle that the bars are at is it possible to stop them hitting the tank? Modding the screen is no problem but if I drop the bike and mash up the tank when the handlebars hit it... Did you fit it yourself? Being a bit of a noob and somewhat tool-less I'm half tempted to get a more able person to do it but having said that, I'm not scared of brandishing a spanner!

Right, handlebar kit is paid for and winging its way towards me as we speak. Woohoo! No more effin' back pain! I'm gonna have a bash at fitting it myself, but I'm gonna need to invest in some tools (my crappy halfords socket set ain't gonna cut the mustard on this one!) So I'm thinking

*Decent 1/2 inch socket set
*Breaker bar
*Torque wrench - reccomendations on this? Don't want to go overboard and spend a gazillion quid but a decent-ish one would be good. Had a look on fleabay, they all seem to be 19-110Nm, Haynes says the fork top yoke bolts are 23nm so I'm guessing that range will cover it accuratly enough.
*Brake compressor to help bleed the brakes
*Brake fluid & Cleaner

The kit comes with a pair of braided HEL brake likes (AFAIK) but I'm guessing that doesn't include the balancing hydraulic line between the two caliper sets - where can I get one of these? Or should I just use the stock one... If I'm having it all apart then I may as well replace the lot!

Umm not sure what else I'll need - got a set o' spanners, etc. Thoughts? By the looks of it the pig will be replacing the brake lines and bleeding the system. All of this is new to me, I've done basic maintenance on the car but never fiddled with brakes etc. Gonna be a steep learning curve!

You don't need the balancing hydraulic line since each calliper will have it's own line coming from the master brake cylinder. I didn't need a brake compressor.

For the pointy you will need a large socket for the top yoke nut (32mm as far as remember) and a security TORX bit (with a hole in the middle) for taking out the ignition barrel. Since your's is a curvy, it may be different sizes but best to check before taking the bits apart only to realise you can't undo a silly screw.

I also used an electric drill to accommodate the switch block's plastic nipple that prevents it from rotating on the handlebars.

This is also a good opportunity to lube the clutch and throttle cables, so one of those cable lubing tools is cheap and very handy.

Thanks maxinc... Each caliper does have a line going to it, but there is a balancing line on mine too - should I blank it off or leave it in place?

Lol the silly screw scenario I'm gonna go shopping based on the haynes manual sockets, think I might randomly have a security torx set knocking about.

Is it simples to remove the grips etc. from the existing handlebars? Gonna have a bash at it when I get back from work this eve.

[squirrel_hunter]

Originally Posted by Aquila

On full lock the bars hit the screen & tank!

You do know that is an MOT failure don't you?

[squirrel_hunter]

Originally Posted by 85jas

Each caliper does have a line going to it, but there is a balancing line on mine too - should I blank it off or leave it in place?

Depends if the lines provided are long enough to reach the calipers. By the sound of it you've been sent a twin line set up so no need for the spliter, but a picture of the kit would confirm...

As for tools, lots of threads on here. Spend your money wisely.

Originally Posted by 85jas

Is it simples to remove the grips etc. from the existing handlebars?

Yes and no. Taking the throttle off is easy, taking the left grip off can be a pain depending on what it is stuck down with. Last time I did it I just cut it off. But then I replaced both sides with R6 tubes and grips, this sounds like an ideal time to do the same.

[Bibio]

stuck down grips are easy to get off. insert long philips/pozi screwdriver between grip and bar, squirt some wd40 down inside of grip at the gap where the screwdriver is using the supplied straw. wiggle and twist screwdriver all the way round the bar, remove grip. after removing grip wash with washing up liquid and leave to dry.

Nice one squirrel, will post a piccy when it all turns up; it's the dual line kit so should be all good. Yeah I've been trawling through here for tool recommendations, there are a LOT of posts to go through tho Don't wanna just go out and buy halford's finest lol... will keep trawling.

Nice tip bibio, I like the lateral thinking In reality I'll probably try and get them off like you said, f**k it up, then do what squirrel said and do an upgrade. Always gotta factor these things into the budget, doh!

Well I'll post back once the whole shenanigan (singular?) starts! Thanks all