SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking Discussion and chat on all topics and technical stuff related to the SV650 and SV1000 Need Help: Try Searching before posting |
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#31 |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Dunfermline
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Any rules on tightening them back up? - doing it in situ? or out of the yoke? - hopefully they wont spin.
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Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ![]() K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. |
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#32 |
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I can get them to 20nm by just holding the station with spanner at the brake mounts. I just use an impact driver to tweak them a bit more. They are supposed to be 30nm.
I must have lost so much oil, the bike feels solid now ![]() |
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#33 |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Sunny Swindon
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Holy thread resurrection Batman!
Was doing a fork seal change at the weekend with Stretchie on a GSXF, but a similar fork design when it comes to the damper bolt. And so it was an ideal opportunity to try the impact gun method having only used the broom handle before. And I must report I was really impressed. The compressor and impact gun is an expense but when you use it on something like this it pays for itself. No effort required to get that bolt out. Didn't need to compress the fork and play with the gun just whack it on and the bolt was almost out before I knew it. It even did the bolt with no oil in the fork after a slight miscommunication between us. Now the only thing remaining that can be a pain is reassembly. Is there an easier way to do this? To get the fork back together we did the broom handle to hold the internals as we torqued the bolt back up, not the easiest thing to do... |
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#34 |
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We impacted it back up at work, if I remember rightly I don't thinkk we held it with any thing
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#35 |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Moved again now in Bracknell
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Buy a piece of threaded rod from B&Q and weld/glue a bolt on the bottom. This replicates the Suzuki fork assembly tool. If you look at the FORK ASSEMBLY connections on the link below it shows all the different heads that screw onto the T bar tool ( or B&Q threaded rod ). You can bodge something together to act like the genuine Suzuki tool for a lot of bikes by welding the right size nut to the end of your threaded rod.
If you look at the SV650 connector it is actually the shape of a sharpened broom handle! This is what was recommended to me but I have never done it. I bought a 12v impact wrench for £20 on eBay that connects to the lighter socket of a car or direct to battery terminals and my trusty sharpened broom handle. http://www.alpha-sports.com/tools/suzuki_tools.htm
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#36 |
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I'm with beabert, I've taken SV, GSX-R, ZX-R forks apart and serviced them, a Mayor WOOD, or a minor wooden stick works a charm, wood is good... Maybe I should start this post over again?
![]() Last time I serviced a set of forks it was my mates zx6-r, after the internals where out from the first one using wood to help hold the internals, I did a small brainstorm and looked in my left-over-could-be-of-use-one-day metal box and found a pipe(old curtain pipe thingy) I hammered, filed and drilled to make myself a kwak fork tool ![]() |
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#37 | |
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![]() They usually nip up easily by hand especially if dry from a full strip down. Don't forget new sealing washer if fitted on type of fork you are working on. |
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