What have you tinkered with today?

[Othen]

I learned the hard way many years ago never to skimp on tool quality - not only are the cheap allen keys made of mild steel and round off easily but they are very often not accurate on their size, and have rounded instead of fairly sharp corners anyway - so they will not fit very well. Same with spanners, and I also try to get full hex sockets as well to give max grip on the bolt head, but if the bolt is gonna shear off anyway because its made of cheese metal the full hex won't help - but at least it stops corners of bolt head rounding off...

Good tools will last a lifetime anyway with a moderate amount of care ( eg. not using a ratchet as a hammer ) and save much more than their purchase price.. win-win



I agree, I use either Halfords Professional or my US Craftsman internal hexagons with a ratchet or bar.

The issue here is that the threads have not moved for 13 years, even when I managed to get the first bolt moving it was tight all the way.


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Addendum: This bike keeps fighting back! The left over bolt shaft just would not move and eventually snapped off almost flush, so I had to drill it out. It was stuck solid, it didn't move using left hand twist bits - even when I got as far as the 5mm drill. I had a M6 helicoil kit to hand so I replaced the thread.

The master cylinder is all apart now, but it was a struggle. I'm still not really happy with it so I've found a good used replacement for £20 from eBay.

Alan

[DarrenSV650S]

Thanks for all the tips guys.

This is what they looked like after brushing on some Harpic

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4810/46473170795_0a424af581_b.jpg

Looks like my Arrow pipe has cracked again on the other side. I'll have to get it welded up and get a brace put in between the two pipes. The wise Bibio foresaw this happening last time it broke

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7871/33512049238_d4392f8688_b.jpg

Then tried the coke and aluminium foil treatment which further improved them. I think they might come up good with some polish now

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7830/46473170495_126899da6d_b.jpg

I've still to do the cat section too

[Othen]

Thanks for all the tips guys.



This is what they looked like after brushing on some Harpic



https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4810/46473170795_0a424af581_b.jpg



Looks like my Arrow pipe has cracked again on the other side. I'll have to get it welded up and get a brace put in between the two pipes. The wise Bibio foresaw this happening last time it broke



https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7871/33512049238_d4392f8688_b.jpg



Then tried the coke and aluminium foil treatment which further improved them. I think they might come up good with some polish now



https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7830/46473170495_126899da6d_b.jpg



I've still to do the cat section too



Gosh, you took the whole exhaust off just to clean it.
We are not worthy!


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[littleoldman2]

Well done Darren. Looking good

[DarrenSV650S]

Gosh, you took the whole exhaust off just to clean it.
We are not worthy!


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Yeah it seemed like the easiest way. Plus the bike is living inside just now so splashing bleach and coke everywhere isn't really an option :p

Well done Darren. Looking good

Yeah it's getting there

[Othen]

Yeah it seemed like the easiest way. Plus the bike is living inside just now so splashing bleach and coke everywhere isn't really an option :p







Yeah it's getting there



Your bike is inside the house! We really are not worthy.


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[DarrenSV650S]

Yep it lives in the conservatory over winter. I give it a cuddle from time to time :lol:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4592/38554500934_60965a6563_b.jpg

[Othen]

Yep it lives in the conservatory over winter. I give it a cuddle from time to time :lol:



https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4592/38554500934_60965a6563_b.jpg



Noooooooooooooooooooo!


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[littleoldman2]

Ya big old softie, ya vacuumed the carpet before the photo' just for us;):)

[R1ffR4ff]

You can bring them up even better if you use a Brass Wire brush drill attachment but if you use this method you MUST wear overalls and safety glasses/googles.The Brass wires can come of and stick in cloths and scar the skin and the Safety Glasses/Goggles for the eyes.

Brass wire brushes can remove a lot of the final corrosion and leave a nice,"Burnished" finish or if once used and you don't like the finish the Metal polish usually works even better after the Burnishing.



https://www.toolstation.com/wire-brush-set/p24723?store=EA&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=CjwKCAjwvbLkBRBbEiwAChbckROaa4yfbawaegDLhRNq ht155Vs1h9Aez3Xxh1DwcBueS6S57E9o9xoCZjgQAvD_BwE

£2.51



https://cdn.aws.toolstation.com/images/141020-UK/800/24723.jpg

[Othen]

You can bring them up even better if you use a Brass Wire brush drill attachment but if you use this method you MUST wear overalls and safety glasses/googles.The Brass wires can come of and stick in cloths and scar the skin and the Safety Glasses/Goggles for the eyes.

Brass wire brushes can remove a lot of the final corrosion and leave a nice,"Burnished" finish or if once used and you don't like the finish the Metal polish usually works even better after the Burnishing.



https://www.toolstation.com/wire-brush-set/p24723?store=EA&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=CjwKCAjwvbLkBRBbEiwAChbckROaa4yfbawaegDLhRNq ht155Vs1h9Aez3Xxh1DwcBueS6S57E9o9xoCZjgQAvD_BwE

£2.51



https://cdn.aws.toolstation.com/images/141020-UK/800/24723.jpg



That is not a bad idea. I used Emery cloth on the replacement front header I bought. It does exactly the same thing and removes the top surface of the SS, leaving a sort of burnished finish that comes up pretty well with a bit of Autosol stainless cleaner. Either mechanical method will remove a bit of the metal’s thickness, but then so will the chemical processes (Harpic &c). The SS on the original pipes is pretty thick and seems to be good quality, so it will take quite a bit of scrubbing and polishing.
Before:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190317/4fc409df692182251377a5a94d327223.jpg
After:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190317/c8e6bdfb7ab63753533fcf679bb62b3a.jpg
AO.


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[SV650rules]

R1ffR4ffs brass brushes will probably do the least damage to the stainless steel as it is a lot softer than the SS and far less abrasive than emery cloth.

[Othen]

R1ffR4ffs brass brushes will probably do the least damage to the stainless steel as it is a lot softer than the SS and far less abrasive than emery cloth.



Use those then.
AO.


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[R1ffR4ff]

R1ffR4ffs brass brushes will probably do the least damage to the stainless steel as it is a lot softer than the SS and far less abrasive than emery cloth.

You are right.The soft brass is quite gentle on the metal and leaves a fine brass layer it seems.This gives the burnished look but as said this can be easily polished off with some Autosol type metal polish.The burnished look also seems to corrode slower :)

[Othen]

Happiness is: a 75W soldering iron. After many years of making do with my (perfectly good for electronics) Maplin soldering iron in the garage, I recently bought myself a 75W soldering iron for joining wires and heavier duty jobs.

I tried it out yesterday (fitting some LED indicators to my K6). It is the business for joining wires: no more waiting 5 minutes for the iron to warm up, or not having enough heat, this makes nice joints in seconds. I wouldn’t want to use it near electronic components, but what it does it does very well indeed.

:-)


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[Chris_SVS]

New handlebars,cables, bar tape and tyres on my non motorised cycle

[Othen]

New handlebars,cables, bar tape and tyres on my non motorised cycle

Cool banana - road bike?

[Chris_SVS]

Cool banana - road bike?
Indeed, this fine steed - it also got a new saddle last week as the stock one was starting to creak and was doing my nut in

https://i.imgur.com/WGc4oK7h.jpg

[Othen]

Indeed, this fine steed - it also got a new saddle last week as the stock one was starting to creak and was doing my nut in

https://i.imgur.com/WGc4oK7h.jpg



Cool bike.

How do you find the disc brakes? They are a step too far for me.


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[Chris_SVS]

Cool bike.

How do you find the disc brakes? They are a step too far for me.


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I absolutely love them, over my last winter on rim brakes I went through 2 wheelsets yet the discs and pads on this are the originals from August 2015..

Much like moto brakes I'll give them a good clean every so often and touch wood *points at head* never had any issues.

[Seeker]

I'd need oxygen to sit on a bike with the saddle that high (and a ladder to get on).

[maviczap]

Indeed, this fine steed - it also got a new saddle last week as the stock one was starting to creak and was doing my nut in

https://i.imgur.com/WGc4oK7h.jpg

Ha, I'd find that position a bit extreme, with my lack of flexibility.

I finished building this a couple of weeks ago, it's going to be my winter & do it all bike, as its got rack & mudguard mounts


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7846/46551527035_2accb90fa2_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2dVAKa6)IMG_20190325_110718 (https://flic.kr/p/2dVAKa6) by maviczap (https://www.flickr.com/photos/89416312@N07/), on Flickr

[Chris_SVS]

Kinesis stuff is lovely mav. The position isn't as bad as it looks, I have uselessly long legs and a short spine. 6ft3 and this is a 54cm frame.. Other combinations gave me no end of back trouble or hip impingement

[maviczap]

Blimey a 54 is usually too small for me, unless it's got a tall headtube!

[Chris_SVS]

I forgot to add the frame is more CX in geometry (and it's very good offroad with knobblies on!) I had a similar bike in a 56 that was acceptably comfortable in general, but I need so much saddle setback it scared me on a carbon frame.

Loved this thing though, sold a long time ago and never replaced. The chrome decals on wheels reflected the sun beautifully

https://i.imgur.com/9mga7ioh.jpg

[Adam Ef]

I have a Trek Emonda that I love. A second hand bargain with lots of scuffs on it. Great to ride though and surprisingly ok for distance, despite being very stiff and responsive.


If I had the money I'd love the disc brake version of the Trek Domane. They come with 32mm tyres as standard and can fit larger, so would be good for semi knobbly tread tyres. They also weight next to nothing. The big frame tubes and chunky tyres make it look like it will be heavy, but it just about floated away when I lifted one up in a shop.

[Chris_SVS]

Emonda,Domane,Madone... Well played TREK :p

^My green PX above has 28's on it, occasionally 30mm file tread cx tyres.. I used to be all over 23/25c when racing but the comfort of bigger tyres and lower PSI is hard to knock

[Adam Ef]

Also trying to find small block /semi knobbly tyres in less than 32mm is tricky.



Don't forget the accents on the Trek names, and the special pronounciations if you're asking about them at a Trek dealer. ;)

[Chris_SVS]

Also trying to find small block /semi knobbly tyres in less than 32mm is tricky.



Don't forget the accents on the Trek names, and the special pronounciations if you're asking about them at a Trek dealer. ;)
I'm from NI, pronouncing TREK model names is the least of my problems :p

[SV650rules]

Happiness is: a 75W soldering iron. After many years of making do with my (perfectly good for electronics) Maplin soldering iron in the garage, I recently bought myself a 75W soldering iron for joining wires and heavier duty jobs.

I tried it out yesterday (fitting some LED indicators to my K6). It is the business for joining wires: no more waiting 5 minutes for the iron to warm up, or not having enough heat, this makes nice joints in seconds. I wouldn’t want to use it near electronic components, but what it does it does very well indeed.

:-)


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Think the biggest I have got is about 75watt, mind you when the radiator on my Vauhall Viva leaked around the top seam I shaped a big lump of copper ( about 50mm x 20mm x 70mm long with a steel rod and wooden file handle ) with a smaller end to fit into the solder channel around top of rad and heated it up with gas stove burner and it did the job beautifully..

Thinking about it that Viva was a right bag of 5h1t ....

Also got a couple of Iroda butane powered soldering iron with several tips and a blowtorch nozzle, useful for heatshrink sleeving. Means you don't need a mains cable and they are about 35 watts ( adjustable ).

[Othen]

Think the biggest I have got is about 75watt, mind you when the radiator on my Vauhall Viva leaked around the top seam I shaped a big lump of copper ( about 50mm x 20mm x 70mm long with a steel rod and wooden file handle ) with a smaller end to fit into the solder channel around top of rad and heated it up with gas stove burner and it did the job beautifully..

Thinking about it that Viva was a right bag of 5h1t ....

Also got a couple of Iroda butane powered soldering iron with several tips and a blowtorch nozzle, useful for heatshrink sleeving. Means you don't need a mains cable and they are about 35 watts ( adjustable ).

Good story about the Vauxhall Viva!

How about this problem: the header pipe on my 1976 Suzuki Bloop has a couple of pin holes in it where the metal had just worn thin over the years. At the moment they are sealed with a MS sleeve I made, secured with some stainless steel marine type zip ties (about 10mm wide) and lined with exhaust paste (this works just fine - it looks a tad scruffy, but is perhaps in keeping with the bike). The metal is too thin to risk MIG welding, so I'm thinking an old fashioned solder patch might do the job - or perhaps brazing (I have not used brazing for 30 years).

What do you think? It might be a bit of a risk - and I suppose I might just end up having to source a replacement header.

Alan

[Othen]

Spooky... just after I posted the reply above to SV650rules I thought I'd just check eBay to see if there was a Bloop header pipe for sale (they are not so common now in the UK)... and would you believe I picked up a NOS item for only £45. I'm pretty pleased with that and will post a photo of my Bloop with its shiny new header fitted next week :-)

[DarrenSV650S]

Fitted a SpeedoHealer to account for the bigger rear sprocket. You wouldn't believe where Aprilia put the connector for the speedo pickup. Wedged between the engine and the frame. The only way to see it is by peering through a tiny gap on the other side of the bike. I tried all sorts of hooks and rods to unclip the connector. Eventually the brittle plastic clip snapped off. Then healer unit just sticks on with sticky velcro :smt042

[garynortheast]

Oil and filter change. The next one will be due at 94,700 miles.

[DarrenSV650S]

Out on the bike today it suddenly got louder and sounded like crap. I stopped and part of the sleeve gasket for the rear cylinder downpipe was lying on the swingarm. I headed home quickly to get to the dealer before they closed. Luckily they had the gasket in stock. I disassembled the exhaust, got the gasket in, impressed with how quickly I had turned it around on a bank holiday weekend. Started it up to check it was ok. Sounded back to normal. Then I noticed water was being sprayed on the hugger. The Arrow splitter pipe has lived up to its name again. That is 3 times it has cracked. Even with a new brace put in. I don't know what else to do with it.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47653104101_32776e9993_b.jpg

[R1ffR4ff]

Fully key the area and,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Abro-Steel-QuickSteel-Reinforced-Epoxy-Metal-Instant-Repair-Putty-Weld-2OZ-AS224/131724543804?epid=8003307001&hash=item1eab65073c:g:5qAAAOSwll1WuzO4&frcectupt=true

Some of my bodges have outlasted the vehicles :O

Can be sanded smooth and then touched up with a bit of silver heat paint.

[DarrenSV650S]

I did it the proper way though! :lol:

Professionally welded and it just breaks. Would that stuff last any longer?

[R1ffR4ff]

I did it the proper way though! :lol:

Professionally welded and it just breaks. Would that stuff last any longer?

It doesn't cost much so give it a go.Nothing to lose if it doesn't.I used some on a motorcycle radiator years ago and it lasted and worked.OK the rad doesn't take the temps an exhaust does but a Rad is under constant pressure so still gets stressed.

[Othen]

Just wondered what you have been doing to your bike today? Whether it be a service, a repair or a modification (or even just giving the dirty girl a good old wash down). Thought it would be good to acknowledge those little efforts that help keep your steed running sweetly.



Am fairly new to Org, so if there is a similar active thread, please send me the link.



I got my first big bike 2 mths ago , its a 2001 naked with 50k (and needing lots of TLC)



As my front brake was binding I decided to investigate. I loosened bobbins using a nut and bolt and cleaner. Whilst cleaning I noticed that one of the front calipers had perished seals (one was half hanging out) and was full of corrosion. Ive not had much hands on experience with mechanics, but after watching a variety of Utube vids, I felt like having a go at rebuilding the caliper. The pistons needed a fair amount of attention.



The new seals arrived today and I was able to put everything together and bleed the brakes etc.....problem solved...and brakes are much more responsive...I guess the pistons must have been jamming before.



I felt quite pleased with myself after, especially as two blokes I ride out with, said they had never dared mess with their own calipers, other than to change pads. These blokes have done 80 years of riding between them....wtf!!!



Well done! Most jobs on bikes (particularly the SV - it is a simple bike and easy to work on), so don’t be scared to have a go, there is always a middle aged man with a beard on YouTube that will give you a good idea, and almost certainly someone on this site if you get stuck.

Good fortune,

Alan


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[Seeker]

That is 3 times it has cracked. Even with a new brace put in. I don't know what else to do with it.

From the sound of it (!) either the splitter has a resonant frequency the same as engine vibration or the complete system has the resonance and the splitter is the weakest link.

Are the silencers rubber mounted and, if not, could they be? Is there room to splice in something like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Car-Exhaust-Systems/Universal-Flexible-Corrugated-coupling-Diameter/B00GHQB7PS

If/when you get it re-welded - get the welder to add braces top and bottom between the "Y".


Have you tried speaking to Arrow?

[DarrenSV650S]

The cans are bolted solid to the subframe. The best I could do with that is maybe put some rubber grommits. Don't know if that would help. There isn't really room for a flexi between the cat and the splitter. Arrow don't want to know because I didn't buy it directly from them.

This is the brace that was added in

https://live.staticflickr.com/7846/33715962798_34f7930300_b.jpg

[Othen]

The cans are bolted solid to the subframe. The best I could do with that is maybe put some rubber grommits. Don't know if that would help. There isn't really room for a flexi between the cat and the splitter. Arrow don't want to know because I didn't buy it directly from them.

This is the brace that was added in

https://live.staticflickr.com/7846/33715962798_34f7930300_b.jpg



You might try changing its harmonic frequency by adding some weight. The unsupported bit probably only weighs a few pounds, so if you added perhaps a pound of something quite dense (like perhaps wrapping it with lead wire) it should make the element’s harmonic frequency significantly lower, and move it away from say 100 Hz (which would be the primary frequency of the motor running at 6,000 RPM).
It might work, and would be a cheap fix. Another way of achieving the same would be to make the element more (as you have with the brace) or less (as you suggest with rubber grommets) rigid - but that having failed once adding some mass might be worth trying.
Alan


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[Adam Ef]

I'd definitely fit some grommets or similar to isolate some of the vibration.






+ What size bolts are the cans fixed with? I have some grommets left over from my belly pan refurb that fit m6 bolts I think. Only needed 4 and they came as a pack of 10 from China. I can put a couple in the post if any use for you to try?

[DarrenSV650S]

I think they are M8 or M10. I'll need to check.

Cheers guys

[Seeker]

On the high pipe Street Triple, Triumph use split rubber bushes trapped by two flanges with a bolt running through to stop (or reduce vibration) at the cat and the same arrangement at the silencers themselves.: Parts 10,19,20 on this drawing:-

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/9018/street-triple-to-vin-560477/exhaust-system

[Bibio]

Daz, thats not going to work. you need a triangle plate welded over the whole area that is cracking. this will make sure that the area will move as one instead of flexing.

[admin]

Lawnmower in bits. It's electric and the on/off switch has given up the ghost. I can't complain as i bought it in 1991.

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[R1ffR4ff]

Lawnmower in bits. It's electric and the on/off switch has given up the ghost. I can't complain as i bought it in 1991.

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Can't you fit your own switch?

[admin]

Can't you fit your own switch?That's the plan. It won't have the double touch safety interlock but I'm past caring.

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[Sir Trev]

Similar issue to Admin but in my case it's the scarifier. Dug it out of the shed and got ready for the slog of emptying the damn thing every ten seconds and filling/lugging 30-odd rubble sacks to the shed before a run to the dump next weekend and... it won't spin over. Off to the garage and strip it down. Full of grass under the covers but the motor is fine after a good vacuum but the scarifying shaft is really stiff. Trial and error strip down later and the output shaft is in the vice complete with the seized bearing. It turned a bit with mole grips attached after a dose of penetrating fluid but it's clearly got to be replaced. Drifted it off with a hammer/screwdriver and off to the interwebs.

6200-2Z, really common size it seems as dozens of suppliers have it. But, if I get it from a store that sells garden machinery spares it is about £25 - from a bearing factor about £3. I wonder which one I'll use. Tough decision eh?

Much cheaper than buying a new scarifier and it does me good to get the tools out and swear a bit in the garage every now and then.

[Othen]

Similar issue to Admin but in my case it's the scarifier. Dug it out of the shed and got ready for the slog of emptying the damn thing every ten seconds and filling/lugging 30-odd rubble sacks to the shed before a run to the dump next weekend and... it won't spin over. Off to the garage and strip it down. Full of grass under the covers but the motor is fine after a good vacuum but the scarifying shaft is really stiff. Trial and error strip down later and the output shaft is in the vice complete with the seized bearing. It turned a bit with mole grips attached after a dose of penetrating fluid but it's clearly got to be replaced. Drifted it off with a hammer/screwdriver and off to the interwebs.

6200-2Z, really common size it seems as dozens of suppliers have it. But, if I get it from a store that sells garden machinery spares it is about £25 - from a bearing factor about £3. I wonder which one I'll use. Tough decision eh?

Much cheaper than buying a new scarifier and it does me good to get the tools out and swear a bit in the garage every now and then.



Exactly - we tend to replace many perfectly good things that need just a little bit of attention to make good again. You are right about common user items like bearings and seals as well, when I re-built Bloop I could have bought bearings from Suzuki at £35 each, but it was just as easy to read the part number and get them from a factor at £3 each (the same for the nitride seals).


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[DarrenSV650S]

Daz, thats not going to work. you need a triangle plate welded over the whole area that is cracking. this will make sure that the area will move as one instead of flexing.

So completely fill the area between the pipes and the bar?

[Adam Ef]

you need a triangle plate welded over the whole area that is cracking....


I'd agree. The brace you have there will help stop left to right movement, but I'd imagine the crack is being caused by up down movement, and the two cans going up and down independently of each other.

[Othen]

I bent the side stand on my CCM when I strapped it down in my trailer (forgot to put the stand up when I tightened the straps, ho hum). The bike leant over a bit too far on the stand, and it had been weakened a bit so probably would have failed one day.
In between working on my SV and a few other little jobs I thought I’d fix it. I took it off, applied a bit (quite a bit) of heat, clamped one end in the vice and used a 3’ length of 2”x2” square section to get it more or less straight. To strengthen it a bit I welded a big lump of MS angle to the back:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190422/f2d7ecf38b99a56dc85b431b60ef6c34.jpg

It works just fine, and is a good dirt bike fix.


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[Chris_SVS]

Fitted fork leg mounted running light to the Tracer, wired with OEM plugs to an onboard aux plug.. Need to order a switch to suit but otherwise works grand, is just on all of the time

https://i.imgur.com/uKGjRjkh.jpg

[Adam Ef]

I have two spare switches from when I fitted aux lights. One that came with them that looked very plastic so I didn't use it and another I ordered that lights up too, but decided I wanted one slightly bigger I could mount to my grips heater controller bracket. I'll try and get a pic and they're yours if any use.

[Adam Ef]

This is the better one that I have spare... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SmartSwitch-12V-24V-18mm-IP67-Steel-LED-Illuminated-ON-OFF-POWER-Button-Switch-/142264810878?var=&hash=item211fa4bd7e

[Chris_SVS]

Oh good man thanks :) I'll hold off ordering until then, switch came with the light is on the cheap side too. I say cheap, they were probably 33p each for a bulk buy

[Chris_SVS]

Didn't realise we'd posted over each other, I'll take that off you please :cool:

[SV650rules]

Didn't want to start a new thread but seems the 'tinkering' thread may be OK.

Has anyone ever used these ? Seem like a neat idea to fix things like a new R/R or bypass a dodgy plug. Solder that melts before the heatshrink does is a new one on me..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Eventronic-Electrical-Waterproof-Automotive-Connectors/dp/B0716GK2F2/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_bmx_1_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0716GK2F2&pd_rd_r=35dc56c6-c7e3-49c4-afd2-f91c47f63490&pd_rd_w=VR0sJ&pd_rd_wg=DjfeL&pf_rd_p=8da1759d-49e8-4f38-993a-969ac50c3254&pf_rd_r=8RWY19CKSN0FGYAWN2QY&psc=1&refRID=8RWY19CKSN0FGYAWN2QY

[R1ffR4ff]

Didn't want to start a new thread but seems the 'tinkering' thread may be OK.

Has anyone ever used these ? Seem like a neat idea to fix things like a new R/R or bypass a dodgy plug. Solder that melts before the heatshrink does is a new one on me..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Eventronic-Electrical-Waterproof-Automotive-Connectors/dp/B0716GK2F2/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_bmx_1_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0716GK2F2&pd_rd_r=35dc56c6-c7e3-49c4-afd2-f91c47f63490&pd_rd_w=VR0sJ&pd_rd_wg=DjfeL&pf_rd_p=8da1759d-49e8-4f38-993a-969ac50c3254&pf_rd_r=8RWY19CKSN0FGYAWN2QY&psc=1&refRID=8RWY19CKSN0FGYAWN2QY


New to me and interesting :)

[SV650rules]

Similar issue to Admin but in my case it's the scarifier. Dug it out of the shed and got ready for the slog of emptying the damn thing every ten seconds and filling/lugging 30-odd rubble sacks to the shed before a run to the dump next weekend and... it won't spin over. Off to the garage and strip it down.

Had similar experience when I dug the scarifier out of the depths of the garage and re-homed some large spiders in the process. Would not spin over, but seemed to work sometimes if I jiggled the safety switch, so being as the switch was the easiest to get to I took a look inside ( held together with those security torx screws with a peg up the middle of the torx socket ) - sprayed in some contact cleaner but still could not get motor moving. Decided it may be the motor ( one of those universal AC/DC things with carbon brushes ), one look at the blackness of the commutator told me it may be arcing so I tackled the brushes - one was stuck in its holder, freed it up and polished the commutator with fine emery and - vroom vroom - dug bin loads of dead grass and moss out of the lawn - wouldn't think there could possibly be so much stuff hiding in the lawn.

[Othen]

New to me and interesting :)



That looks pretty cool, I’m not sure how strong the joints would be, but for bike electrics that would not matter most of the time. I’ll get some next time I place an order with Amazon.


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[SV650rules]

That looks pretty cool, I’m not sure how strong the joints would be, but for bike electrics that would not matter most of the time. I’ll get some next time I place an order with Amazon.


One of the reviewers said his dad used to use them when he worked at BAE, I reckon if they use them they must be OK.

[DarrenSV650S]

Solder isn't the best idea on bikes because of the vibrations or heat. Crimps are quicker, easier and stronger

[Othen]

Solder isn't the best idea on bikes because of the vibrations or heat. Crimps are quicker, easier and stronger



Well, I certainly don’t agree with that: if it is a job that will never need to come apart again and never fail, I solder it and seal it with heat shrink. I also use crimps (lots of them) in the right place (like removable connectors for lights and so on).
We will just have to disagree on that one (but I’m right :-))
Having thought about it, I don’t think this product is worth trying. As above: if a joint is immutable then it is worth soldering (it doesn’t take long with a 75w iron), if it is for a removable connection then crimping is better - so this product doesn’t have a place.
Alan


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[maviczap]

New HT lead and plug cap, but still have an SV325.

Drained the fuel out of the tank and front float bowl. Gonna get some fresh fuel in it, see if that helps

[SV650rules]

There are plenty of bad crimps around done with wrong tool and maybe right tool with wrong dies which can damage cable strands, or wrong size lug, and a crimp not done properly and sealed is open to corrosion. Main problem with soldering is when too much heat used and solder is allowed to wick up into multi strand cables ( which takes away flexibility ) and no strain and bending relief is supplied, the heat shrink tubing will both seal and provide strain relief to the joint - I tend to tin the strands and then twist them together and use minimum amount of heat and solder to complete the joint and heat shrink the joint and have had good success with reliability.

[Othen]

There are plenty of bad crimps around done with wrong tool and maybe right tool with wrong dies which can damage cable strands, or wrong size lug, and a crimp not done properly and sealed is open to corrosion. Main problem with soldering is when too much heat used and solder is allowed to wick up into multi strand cables ( which takes away flexibility ) and no strain and bending relief is supplied, the heat shrink tubing will both seal and provide strain relief to the joint - I tend to tin the strands and then twist them together and use minimum amount of heat and solder to complete the joint and heat shrink the joint and have had good success with reliability.



We agree about that: tinning the ends, twisting them, soldering and sliding some heat shrink over is the best method. I can’t recall a soldered joint I’ve made on a car or bike ever failing - the downside is that if they ever have to come apart they are hard work (or the wire gets shorter).
Doing crimps properly is a good idea as well (use a proper crimper tool and it will make a pretty good joint).


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[SV650rules]

Lets face it a lot of crimps are done with wrong size lugs and a pair of pliers or side cutters because correct tools not available, decent crimp tools are pricey bits of kit.

[Othen]

Lets face it a lot of crimps are done with wrong size lugs and a pair of pliers or side cutters because correct tools not available, decent crimp tools are pricey bits of kit.



Both statements are true: the majority of DIY crimps I’ve seen on bikes and cars have been done with pliers and are often useless (very prone to vibration, often creating intermittent problems that are hard to find). Also a proper crimping tool is slightly expensive (and a specialised tool that can’t be used for anything else), but I have found them to be invaluable. A proper crimped joint is pretty good.


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[Chris_SVS]

Cruise control fitted and tested :cool: Super Tenere switchgear to arrive later this week so the controls will be factory OEM looking instead of this


https://i.imgur.com/Yxjiykah.jpg

[Craig380]

Does the cruise control only work on bikes with a fly-by-wire throttle? I know how it works in cars etc, I'm curious about how all the features like clutch / brake usage disengaging cruise works on a bike ....

[Scittyf]

Surely just the same. I mean most levers already have switches that are used for lights. So surely its a case of tapping into those?

I'd imagine its easier to implement on bikes with fuel injection and throttle bodies that are electronically controlled. Rather than carb's with mechanical parts.

[R1ffR4ff]

I have a simple but super effective Cruise Control on my 99,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vista-Cruise-Motorcycle-Cruise-Control-Throttle-Lock-for-Honda-Kawasaki-MCVICO/292676244473?epid=171164324&hash=item4424dd13f9:g:fIYAAOSwEfBbbeqn&frcectupt=true

There was a UK supplier but I can't find them now :(

Cost about £25 which seems a lot but it works fantastic so worth it IMHO.

I fitted fatter grips to my SV so sanded off the silly Suzuki fins on the throttle sleeve which also allowed me to fit the,"Vista".

https://i.imgur.com/J5sWfXi.jpg

[Chris_SVS]

Does the cruise control only work on bikes with a fly-by-wire throttle? I know how it works in cars etc, I'm curious about how all the features like clutch / brake usage disengaging cruise works on a bike ....
They have different kits for various applications, can't say I know much about those.

Works much the same on this system, clutch or either brake will kill the cruise. Bu since it piggybacks a tach signal, I have wired that part to also piggyback my quickshifter, which will also cut the cruise.

[Othen]

I saw Chris-SVS’s article about fitting cruise control to a SV above and was inspired to try something similar - so today I’ve fitted air conditioning and an information module from a Saab 900. As you can see from the photo, it is quite a neat fit inside the SV’s fairing, and even though I say so myself it enhances the bikes looks and functionality:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190507/3b88f04c134fb48196314dffc19aabc3.jpg

I just have to tidy up the switches a bit, find somewhere to fit the compressor (I was thinking of running it from the back tyre, just like with a pushbike dynamo) and sort out the wiring:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190507/7223c3b870f82d852de0dc182d5a5186.jpg

As you can see, I’ve ended up with a couple of loose wires - I’m not sure where they go and can’t find anything on the SV or Saab’s wiring diagrams to help, does anyone have any ideas?

I was going to fit some heated grips this week, but as you may see I have a heater now, so I can save £50 on those :-)


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[Chris_SVS]

Needs to go through the grubnuts towards the donkey flange

[Othen]

Needs to go through the grubnuts towards the donkey flange



Ahhhh! My Saab wiring diagram is in Swedish, I tried Google translate but that gave me a recipe for reindeer meatballs.


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[Chris_SVS]

Ahhhh! My Saab wiring diagram is in Swedish, I tried Google translate but that gave me a recipe for reindeer meatballs.


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Tasty :D I love Venison when it's well priced

[Othen]

Tasty :D I love Venison when it's well priced



... I find it a bit dear :-)


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[Chris_SVS]

... I find it a bit dear :-)


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:winner:

[aj76]

Productive day, daughter 2 was out stupid early for a Sunday air cadetting so took the opportunity to test my new Warrior stands and adjust the throttle free play on the SV and then a good clean.

Then moved on to the gixxer, coolant flushed and replaced, rear brake cleaned and fluid flushed and changed. Just the front brakes to clean and flush and some new boots (still original bt016s from 2008 [emoji33]) then she should be ready for MOT [emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190512/65f7112ea5ee7d5fc45fa964837fac62.jpg

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[Chris_SVS]

A small screen mod on the Tracer. Standard spacer that came with the MRA screen is 2.8mm thick, I've now removed that and added some drilled 3/8th rubber tap washers which now = 8mm.

Theory behind this is to move the top of the screen forward and away which should (I hope) alter the airflow. I can also use the same theory on the bottom pair of mounting bolts to move the towards me and lower

[aj76]

So after the theft of the gsxr 750 in September it became my project again for this winter. No response after all from bike after recovery as they had smashed the ignition away broke top yoke. Finally stopped putting it off and got into the garage to start investigating. After finally removing panels and airbox I started looking for any damaged wires or loose earth's - no joy. I disconnected the ignition from the loom and after a little googling found the test for the ignition and tested with multimeter which gave no response. The diagram got me thinking so I reconnected the immobiliser side and using a piece of old wires I first bridged red and brown lights showed signs of life and immobiliser on dash started flashing which was a big relief so I then bridged red and orange and the dash came to life also. Bike was showing neutral so clutch in and I went for it. Huge relief when she sparked into life and started instantly. New top yoke ordered now just got to keep a lookout for a lock set with ecu for a 750 now and hopefully will be able to have her sorted in time for late spring [emoji1696]

Wish me luck orgers and all the best for 2020https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191231/488c4f5d3790a097e2ad259e3a640ac6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191231/f2906b373b4ca9ac991146816a070fbd.jpg

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[Adam Ef]

I didn't know you had a Gixxer 750. Been looking at these myself recently. I'm guessing you like it?

[aj76]

I didn't know you had a Gixxer 750. Been looking at these myself recently. I'm guessing you like it?It was a 2008 K8 that had been left for standing (garaged) for 5 years due to previous owners ill health and was going to be scrapped when he sadly passed so I rescued it and took a chance on it, only managed to put just over 400 miles on it before it was stolen [emoji2959] having just checked the dash to see how much it may have been used by the scumbags miles is only 4245 from new.

It certainly did put a massive grin on my face and was a big step up from the SV, handling was good and that was without any attempt to adjust or set it up for me personally and the brakes were a huge improvement. Really enjoyed riding it and one of the few rides I did was over Cat & Fiddle to see Baz at his local bike night as a surprise before he knew I had it sorted and on the road. Baz took it for a bit a run and was also suitably impressed. Dont know how it compares to more modern variants but hopefully will be sorted and all on for the next BPW [emoji1696]

This winter was supposed to be braided lines and rebuilding front calipers on the SV and having a full service done by local specialist but that's now looking like it's going to have to wait.



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[Adam Ef]

I've been looking at that era too. 2007 to 2010 seem to come up for decent prices. Considering selling the Street Triple as it's too valuable (I still owe money on it) and I don't use it. I'm only on the second tank of fuel since August and that includes the 80 mile ride to get it home! Lovely bike, but just too nice and I think I prefer looking at it to riding it. I always feel a bit too upright on it and am too precious about it to take it out most of the time. A GSXR 750 seems like it might be a good replacement for fun riding and shorter journeys.

[aj76]

I looked at a Street triple but didn't feel too comfortable on it. K8,k9 and L0 are all the same and have the different riding modes so if it's a tootle round town you can hold it back and save fuel and if your out on more interesting roads you can unleash the full power. Thinking I will do bikesafe again but on the Gixxer this time hopefully late spring [emoji1696]

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[Adam Ef]

Have you got any photos of yours?

[aj76]

Only a couple mate, first 2 were from when I first looked at it and the cat and fiddle was from its first proper ride. It was nicked about 6 weeks after being put back on the road Sono my really did 3 decent rides on it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191231/e9f56baa4061198d7a4fafb1f6275a66.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191231/e44ac7b8b71a798f9e364301a2acc9c4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191231/a13982dce04fbab2b049d0f6d43bb398.jpg

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[garynortheast]

How's the gixer repair going Andy?

[aj76]

How's the gixer repair going Andy?Parts are being ordered and will come back to it in a few weeks. Just glad I got it running and dash working again and it appears they haven't had it running to use it. Only got it back by pure chance. Will share the story when our paths next cross.

Will hopefully get out a lot more this year as less than 2k covered last year on both bikes due to the theft and damage to garage [emoji24]

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[Seeker]

This is a garage tinker as opposed to a bike although this whole process (of new garage etc) was intended for the Kawa H1F the status of which is in limbo.
The new garage was letting in damp along its base so the installers returned to apply PVA which would waterproof the concrete (they said). I decided to apply a liquid DPM (damp proof membrane) myself on top of the PVA and then applied 2 coats of a two-part polyurethane paint. I was happy with the results but then I saw these 50cm sq tiles made from recycled plastic, about 12 mm thick, not solid but instead they have a webbed construction underneath. They seem durable but painful to kneel on (that might be an age thing), should be a bit warmer than the concrete.

I was determined not to have anything stored on the floor and it's working so far but the shed has suffered (I hope to deal with that next).

The SV is in an "oxygen tent" with a dehumidifier - my plan to dehumidify the entire garage was soon changed when I saw the power consumption of the unit (it's a dessicant type).


https://i.ibb.co/18b9QKj/tile.jpg

[admin]

Where did you get the tiles? I've been thinking of getting these for my garage floor.

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[Seeker]

I bought them from Duramat: https://duramat.co.uk/category/discount-packs/


Although they are 50cm sq they're shipped in sq mtr batches ie 4 tiles. I laid them like that but with hindsight I should have split them back into individual tiles since I had a couple that didn't want to interlock cleanly and the brute-force-and-ignorance approach damaged them (they did supply a hammer ;) ). I've repaired the damage and it's not noticeable. They didn't suggest using a lubricant but after that I used some ArmorAll type product and it helped.

[admin]

I bought them from Duramat: https://duramat.co.uk/category/discount-packs/


Although they are 50cm sq they're shipped in sq mtr batches ie 4 tiles. I laid them like that but with hindsight I should have split them back into individual tiles since I had a couple that didn't want to interlock cleanly and the brute-force-and-ignorance approach damaged them (they did supply a hammer ;) ). I've repaired the damage and it's not noticeable. They didn't suggest using a lubricant but after that I used some ArmorAll type product and it helped.Cheers, I'll take a look.

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[Chris_SVS]

Haven't had much more than a quick glance at the Tracer since purchase, so took an hour today to give the brakes a checkup.

Didn't have to do an awful lot. Quick spray and a gentle rub with a toothbrush, reassemble.

https://i.imgur.com/xwnN7qHh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/53knxTdh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cLR0eKRh.jpg

[aj76]

Managed to do a bit more tinkering with the GSXR this weekend, ECU swapped, rear seat lock and petrol cap swapped and new ignition barrel attached to new top yoke with snap bolts. Ordered some iridium's as seems a shame to waste the opportunity to swap the plugs whilst the airbox is already removed.

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[admin]

Chris I would smear some red rubber grease on those brake pistons. It'll still corrosion on the piston. Red grease won't rot the seals either.

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