View Full Version : What have you tinkered with today?
garynortheast
23-06-22, 10:33 AM
How about shoe repair thread? I used kite string for one repair to leather, that was very strong but it was white!
Not sure but I suspect shoe repair thread may be a bit too thick.
DarrenSV650S
25-06-22, 03:07 PM
Cleared out the blocked fuel tank rainwater drain.
I had to do it last year too. It's the part that passes through the tank so not very easy to clean thoroughly.
Cleared out the blocked fuel tank rainwater drain.
I had to do it last year too. It's the part that passes through the tank so not very easy to clean thoroughly.
use the inner of an old clutch cable the one with the ball end and not the barrel.
DarrenSV650S
28-06-22, 04:27 PM
use the inner of an old clutch cable the one with the ball end and not the barrel.
I knew you'd be the man with the answer. Wealth of experience :thumbsup:
garynortheast
29-08-22, 03:23 PM
Changed the front tyre. Don't know why but it was a bit of a pig of a job this time. I normally have no trouble removing and replacing tyres. Just a bit out of practise I guess as I haven't changed one for a while.
svenrico
30-08-22, 11:05 AM
I need to do that, too - what sort of thread do you use?
Cox leather repair shop (now gone sadly) sold me a special needle and thread a few years ago for mending leather. Think the thread might be waxed.
svenrico
30-08-22, 11:07 AM
Thanks chaps - Curvy or pointy? always confused me, it has no fairing and is the naked variant . Now it just stops, no splutter, just dies both cylinders together. I put the old plug in without disconnecting any wiring, could I have strained a wire? I was very careful. Looking inside the tank no real sign of rust. It lives in a garage and never gets wet (apart from its annual clean, if I can help it) It has got worse so will check plug cap, but it does not appear to go onto one cylinder, just dies and will restart after and will run for 800yrds or so. Battery is less than a year old, holds its charge and restarts the bike ok. I have confidence in the battery it spins the bike well.
Has this been resolved ?
redtrummy
30-08-22, 12:14 PM
Hi Svenrico
I am pretty sure I posted athe fix but I may have forgotten to hit the Post button.
Answer Yes! I had changed the front plug by twisting the rad sideways a bit for access, that's when the problem started. Fortunately as I wandered round the bike trying to decide where to kick it first (ala Faulty Towers) I noticed that the water coolant was low - topped that up now all ok I had changed the antifreeze a couple of years before!. The temperature overload switch must have activating. I did not lose any fluid when I changed the plug so I must have had an airlock which I released moving the rad about.
Really annoys me when problems are resolved but solutions not shared
garynortheast
31-08-22, 06:16 PM
First ride after fitting the new front tyre. I'd forgotten how much better the SV handles with a new tyre instead of the worn out one!
Took the engine out of a 2013 Gladius that I bought in need of serious TLC. The previous owner said "it made a noise and lost all power" he then drained the oil which "had bits of metal in it". I'm assuming the engine is fubared but Im going take the barrels off and have a look anyway. Does anybody know if the very latest V Strom engine will fit?
Annual Christmas cake baking day. I could buy a ready made one but it's a bit of a tradition in our house to bake one. My wife used to bake it and I helped the kids decorate it but time has moved on and I now do both.
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redtrummy
03-11-22, 08:06 AM
Taste the quality as well!
Added some crash bars to the R NineT because those cylinder heads looked vulnerable.
I thought they might stick out like a sore thumb.
They do make the bike (even) wider but blend in with the frame and overall look I think.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/c0d944dd49fcde4d23d4b8a1a2bc4ff1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/05fb4a144d32fe7a901702177a4f9a99.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230325/63a4232bb5ab05ac92fcfeb8923046b7.jpg
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garynortheast
25-03-23, 04:11 PM
Looks good Tam. They blend in well enough to look like they could be factory fitted.
just a pity its not an SV:smt056
garynortheast
26-03-23, 03:45 PM
just a pity its not an SV:smt056
Those engine bars may look a bit odd on an SV. :smt046
ha yes, wouldnt look right without those two big lumps sticking out the sides!
EssEllTwo
03-04-23, 08:24 PM
Put my SV through MOT today, passed with flying colours.
garynortheast
03-04-23, 08:40 PM
Put my SV through MOT today, passed with flying colours.
Good stuff. All set for another year of miles n' smiles.
Craig380
04-04-23, 07:18 AM
Those crashbars look good, they go with the semi-knobblies and the street scrambler vibe.
garynortheast
05-04-23, 08:11 PM
New battery to be fitted tomorrow. It's a gel battery, like the one it's replacing. The old one has been on the way out for a little while now and this winter has seen it off.
If the weather is ok tomorrow I may just give the bike a much needed, thorough clean once the battery is fitted.
garynortheast
06-04-23, 07:58 PM
New battery fitted this afternoon. The bike now starts instantly at the first press of the button. Once I'd finished, I made the most of the warm weather and took the bike a few miles down the road to a garage and (very carefully!) gave it a jet wash.
EssEllTwo
07-04-23, 12:32 PM
Good stuff. All set for another year of miles n' smiles.
Absolutely. I'd hard it SORN'd since January to move the tax/MOT costs away from the new year/xmas period. It was great to be back on two wheels this week!
garynortheast
09-04-23, 10:56 PM
Having fitted the new battery, and cleaned the bike, I shall get out tomorrow and give it a good coat of ACF50, and squirt some GT85 into all the switches.
Then hope for some dry weather to go for a bit of a ride....
Craig380
10-04-23, 09:10 AM
Then hope for some dry weather to go for a bit of a ride....
This is the thing, the weather this year has been quite the contrast to last year.
Because I'm a sad git, I note my bike's mileage throughout the year. From Jan 1 to the end of March 2022 I'd done just shy of 2,500 miles, largely because late Feb and March were unusually dry and warm. I was out on the bike pretty much every day.
In the same period (1 Jan - 31 Mar) this year I've only managed 1000 miles, and the next week or so isn't looking promising.
garynortheast
11-04-23, 01:04 PM
Bike is now clean, shiny, and coated in ACF50. Looks so much better.
https://i.imgur.com/QYFRxG4.jpg
Craig380
11-04-23, 02:45 PM
Looking very good, Gary - you'd never believe its age nor its mileage!
garynortheast
11-04-23, 04:02 PM
It’s a bit scuffed in places and some of the paintwork is decidedly shonky Craig, but overall it’s not bad.
Geodude
13-04-23, 06:24 AM
Bike looks great Gary :cool::D Will have to have another try at sorting mine out now its getting a bit drier out.
Reads like a description of myself :p ;)
It’s a bit scuffed in places and some of the paintwork is decidedly shonky Craig, but overall it’s not bad.
DarrenSV650S
16-04-23, 08:09 PM
Got my bike out of hybernation. Could have gone smoother...
I was pulling it by the wheels to slide it accress the conservatory floor and line it up with the door. Then it just fell over onto the window/ledge cracking 1 pane of the double glazing, scuffing up the left Rizoma mirror to match the right one. Slight scuff on the tail panel.
So I had a little cry, why me etc :smt022 then lifted the bike up to work out how it had happened. The side stand was on a puck and the floor is smooth so the stand shouldn't have just buckled. This is how I always manouvre the bike into position over winter.
Then as I kicked the stand back down a washer fell onto the floor :smt104
And I noticed the stand wasn't at the right angle it should be at...
Turns out one of the bolts was AWOL. Nowhere to be seen. So it has been sitting there all winter on one bolt. It must have rattled out last year at some point :scratch:
Anyway, I put the mirror back in position, pumped up the tyres, lubed the chain, replaced the missing bolt and loctited both of them. Checked a few others to make sure they hadn't abandoned me, then went for a nice ride.
garynortheast
16-04-23, 08:12 PM
Bugger!! Not the best way to start the riding year Darren!
redtrummy
17-04-23, 07:45 AM
Think I would have given up and had a pint instead.
New bike day is getting near so time to revert the VFR to standard. Noisy exhaust is off after a lot of swearing. You won't believe what that lot weighs.
https://i.postimg.cc/cLXCDGBB/IMG-20230418-104245542-HDR.jpg (https://postimg.cc/zyHqBMMy)
https://i.postimg.cc/N0FMSCNq/IMG-20230418-104252390.jpg (https://postimg.cc/JywMBxVP)
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garynortheast
18-04-23, 01:03 PM
That's one large chunk of exhaust system John!
That's one large chunk of exhaust system John!It's not light either 17kg and it's all high up which doesn't help the CofG.
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OK, not bike related, but I was asked if i could look at a Karcher pressure washer which was blowing fuses every time trying to start it. Usual suspect seems to be the starter capacitor, but customer had changed that with no improvement.
I got it on the bench and started stripping it. The new and the old capacitors both checked out spot on at 40uF, all other electrical stuff in very good condition and apparently OK.
The motor shaft projects out of the top with a plastic dust cap, and it was very tight to turn. Loosening off housing screws showed up that the top motor bearing appeared to have play in it, which of course it shouldn't.
The way in is to remove the pump assembly and its swash plate drive, then the motor lower housing comes off. The motor rotor had slight free movement in the top bearing but wouldn't slide out easily, it would catch. Gently tapped the shaft out and found that the rotor had been just contacting the stator field iron, which is clearly what was preventing the motor starting (once powered the magnetic attraction just locked it in contact).
It uses a "tolerance ring" (a corrugated steel sheet ring ) to fit the shaft into the bearing, and this had obviously collapsed so it was now a loose fit in the bearing, the bearing itself was absolutely fine. The tolerance ring is supposed to be a light interference fit so it is a tight push and the corrugations squeeze down to hold the shaft centrally in the bearing.
Carefully measured up the shaft and bearing and turned a close fit solid ring on the lathe, parted it off, and then split it lengthwise so it would clip into the groove in the shaft. Luckily it seemed to be a spot-on fit and the rotor pushed firmly back into the bearing with no apparent play.
Reassembled and all works perfectly, so if you ever come across this fault with a pressure washer, and it seems to be relatively common on various makes, then if the starter capacitor doesn't fix it, investigate the top bearing for free play. The standard fix would be a new tolerance ring, but the chances are that would also eventually collapse too, I had the facilities to make a solid ring which will obviously last indefinitely.
https://www.bing.com/images/blob?bcid=qAkU1WJx5YAFZxvDBZq-l4ATU45N.....1o
https://www.bing.com/images/blob?bcid=qM8DTJav5IAFZxvDBZq-l4ATU45N.....yk
https://www.bing.com/images/blob?bcid=qEfrMRgkgIAFZxvDBZq-l4ATU45N.....8g
I fiitted a TUTORO chain oiler today. I usually fit a Scottoiler but the prices are a bit rich for my liking. I did some research and the TUTORO seemed the best option for me.
Easy to fit, no vacuum pipes to splice or electrical connection required.
I'll let you know how I get on with it.
https://i.postimg.cc/tTLyXSSg/P1030379.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
https://i.postimg.cc/28NmMtLc/P1030380.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
garynortheast
12-07-23, 06:39 PM
That looks very tidy John.
That looks very tidy John.Longer test ride today. Seems to work fine. I'm still fine tuning the drip rate but the chain is wet and there's no fling onto the wheel.
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garynortheast
31-08-23, 04:37 PM
Not exactly the bike, but bike kit. Put this up this afternoon and finally got the bike kit out of my bedroom,
https://i.imgur.com/KPsDsu3.jpg
Grant66
31-08-23, 04:52 PM
Modified the Oxford grips to work from the built-in controller without paying Yamaha an obscene about of money for the privilege.
Oxford grips £70 + £2.50 for the connectors.
Yamaha wanted £210
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230831/85da1c5307f502a9ee69af43455ad95a.jpg
Sent from an S20 using Tapatalk with that kin cr4p blocked
garynortheast
18-09-23, 02:17 PM
My daughter Eleri recently bought a 1921 Singer hand crank machine from a charity shop, in a generally lovely, and working condition. However the wooden handle was held on with a really nasty ill-fitting bolt and a nut with the wrong thread. It should be held on with a steel pin with a flat head and peined over at the arm end.
I decided to do something about it. A four inch nail cut to length, three small washers, and some time spent with a file, and a small ball pein hammer did the job.
I'm quite pleased with the result.
https://i.imgur.com/7z4y1fW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TiPtG75.jpg
I just need to clean and oil all the bushes and bearings now.
Craig380
18-09-23, 02:18 PM
Nice work, Gary!
garynortheast
18-09-23, 02:23 PM
Thanks Craig. It's very satisfying to have it sorted.
garynortheast
20-10-23, 09:29 PM
Odds and ends: started the bike and checked the charging rate, then checked chain tension and tyre pressures ahead of a trip to Wolverhampton on Monday for the funeral of an old friend.
Craig380
21-10-23, 08:35 AM
Sorry to hear about your friend, Gary.
SV650rules
21-10-23, 08:47 AM
Sorry about your mate Gary, good mates are hard to come by, but if you are going to Wolverhampton take your biggest lock and chain.
garynortheast
21-10-23, 09:56 AM
Sorry about your mate Gary, good mates are hard to come by, but if you are going to Wolverhampton take your biggest lock and chain.
I know Wolverhampton fairly well. If I was going into the city itself I probably wouldn't take the bike, but the service is on a green burial site outside of W'ton so should be fairly safe.
SV650rules
21-10-23, 10:07 AM
That would be Bushbury Crem ? Yeah, quite secure and far out of town.
garynortheast
21-10-23, 01:20 PM
No, Wrottesley Park.
Following Craig's recommendation, I popped over to the Honda centre and bought some FS365. That's now slapped all over the vulnerable parts. Got a pair of gloves from the bargain bin too.
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Craig380
21-10-23, 08:04 PM
Following Craig's recommendation, I popped over to the Honda centre and bought some FS365. That's now slapped all over the vulnerable parts.
Remember to give it a quick mist over after every ride (once the engine's cooled off a bit), it'll keep everything looking good.
As mentioned before, when you come to wash the bike, give it a quick pre-misting of the FS and it makes cleaning really easy.
That was my plan. I think I dismissed FS365 in the past because it washes off whereas AC50 is more resilient but does leave a residue. Kevin Jones , who started this site, used to spray WD40 on his SV which did stop the corrosion but it turned hard on his engine casings and was hard to remove.
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garynortheast
23-10-23, 01:52 PM
After just about ten years of procrastination I finally took out the rear brake torque arm, cleaned it up, and shimmed it to remove the small amount of lateral play at the base end. Looking at it, I can see that, despite me bushing it, the hole in the torque arm is a bit elongated now, so I think it's actually time for a new one.
After just about ten years of procrastination I finally took out the rear brake torque arm, cleaned it up, and shimmed it to remove the small amount of lateral play at the base end. Looking at it, I can see that, despite me bushing it, the hole in the torque arm is a bit elongated now, so I think it's actually time for a new one.I remember replacing all the bolts on the torque arm with stainless steel items. Not a great place to put a rear disc caliper
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garynortheast
23-10-23, 02:12 PM
I shall probably do the same when I get a new torque arm.
Craig380
23-10-23, 02:54 PM
That's one improvement the Gen 2 / Gen 3 bikes have, the rear caliper is above the disk and held on a alloy casting that slots onto a tongue on the swingarm, so no torque arm needed and it attracts a lot less crud (not that I ever use the rear brake anyway)
That's one improvement the Gen 2 / Gen 3 bikes have, the rear caliper is above the disk and held on a alloy casting that slots onto a tongue on the swingarm, so no torque arm needed and it attracts a lot less crud (not that I ever use the rear brake anyway)
I actually prefer the torque arm arrangement. Refitting the rear wheel axle whilst persuading the caliper/alloy carrier assembly to not drop out of position and let the the pads fall off the shelf they sit on, is a pain. I take the silencer off and it's still a pain. There will be blood and curses, many curses.
I use the back brake all the time, a habit left over from drum brake era perhaps and mediocre SV front brake (on mine at least).
Remember to give it a quick mist over after every ride (once the engine's cooled off a bit), it'll keep everything looking good.
As mentioned before, when you come to wash the bike, give it a quick pre-misting of the FS and it makes cleaning really easy.
Did this routine yesterday and I can confirm it works a treat.
I noticed the silencer was a bit loose whilst cleaning. The clamp needed a good tighten. I have complained to Honda and the factory worker concerned has committed Hari-Kari.
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garynortheast
06-11-23, 08:19 AM
Dug out one of my bicycles from the temporary pallet shed where it's been stored for the last year. Gave it a clean and a bit of a service ready for a ride with a friend in Dyfnant forest tomorrow. I need to have a tinker with the gears sometime today.
Craig380
06-11-23, 10:06 AM
Did this routine yesterday and I can confirm it works a treat.
I noticed the silencer was a bit loose whilst cleaning. The clamp needed a good tighten. I have complained to Honda and the factory worker concerned has committed Hari-Kari.
Glad it worked for you!
And it's surprising how many cars and bikes are assembled in a slapdash way. When I was on the company car hamster wheel, every new car I got needed a careful going over to tighten things properly, or re-route hoses so they weren't fretting on another component, etc.
garynortheast
06-11-23, 06:57 PM
Back to adjusting the gears on my mtb this afternoon. I think it's time for a parts replacement and refurb. The chain and complete gear set are as old as the bike - 23 years old, and have seen better days. I think a front fork and rear shock replacement are due as well.
About 6 years ago I did a rebuild of my half suspended bike (both of them are vintage Halfords Apollo bikes). The half suspended one got new forks, sprockets front and back, front and rear mech, bottom bracket, pedals and crank arms, and brakes. It had always ridden quite nicely, especially for a budget Halfords, but after the refurb it was absolutely lovely to ride. The gears in particular were just faultless. The whole lot cost me just £135 in parts - money well spent!
So I want to do the same to the fully suspended one, but with the addition of a new air shock on the rear in an effort to keep the back wheel on the ground a bit better on rough going.
I know some people can be a bit snooty about these Halfords bikes, but I have to say that they've had a pretty hard life and nothing has broken, failed, or fallen off in nearly a quarter century.
Craig380
06-11-23, 07:33 PM
Agree 100%, my lad's old Apollo has been taken by my daughter as an urban bike for riding around Manchester.
They're the AK47 of the cycle world: not light, not modern, but you can abuse them mercilessly and they'll just keep on working
Removing old landline phones today. Feels rather odd.
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I’ve fixed the Optimate to the garage ceiling so I don’t trip over the trailing wire two or three times a day.
Only took 10 minutes but now feeling unreasonably pleased with myself. [emoji3]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231229/c728b4b1e821a05217efdee57e9be9ed.jpg
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R1ffR4ff
29-12-23, 05:42 PM
Do yourself a favour and secure the wire near the unit as per the picture below using a tie-wrap otherwise the wire will flex and wear and then short. It's a design flaw in this type of unit,
https://i.imgur.com/zNZgau1.jpg
That’s a good shout. It’s hanging at 90° and doesn’t look great.
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Fitted a cheap tyre pressure monitor to the TA. It has a rechargeable battery so no need to wire it into the bike. Seems to work ok.
https://i.postimg.cc/BngkhqPq/IMG-20240105-150747866-HDR.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
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R1ffR4ff
05-01-24, 03:50 PM
Nice. I love me ,"Farkles " :D
Might get one :)
garynortheast
06-01-24, 07:51 AM
That looks useful John. Got a link?
That looks useful John. Got a link?https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126228290560?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=VoHG-SihSGy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=VR9ynEzrQXi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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My wife bought me a subscription to Bike magazine for Christmas. I got a free set of Oxford heated grips which I was on two minds to fit. I'd rather fit OEM grips but the price difference is huge. Anyhow I've just found that the Oxford grips would foul the tank on full right lock. The Grips are now on eBay.
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Just fitted a set of heated grips to the Transalp. I went for the OEM version as it integrates better with the bike and is a simple plug and play installation. Fitting was a faff though due to crampt access and fiddly connectors.
They look well made, slim and get very hot. I've not had heated grips before so a bit of a luxury.
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Craig380
11-02-24, 09:32 AM
I've always argued myself out of heated grips / gloves because while I do ride in winter, I don't feel I ride often enough to merit the cost of them ... but if I did have them, I'd probably use them from September through to May ;):D
Certainly no worry about energy consumption as better off having the heat in your hands than in our reg/rectifiers!
SV650rules
11-02-24, 02:10 PM
@glang A couple of years after I got my SV650 AL7 in 2016 I fitted an electrex world RR851 'series' regulator ( I had fitted LED headlight bulb and obviously they take a lot less power than the stock filament bulb )- it ran over 30 degrees C cooler than the stock Suzuki mosfet unit ( 70deg C vs 38deg C measure on a 30deg C ambient day ) and the voltage is a lot more stable across rev range ( I wired in a digital voltmeter attached to handlebars ). There was a slight difference with plugs, but they supply a fused 'direct to battery' loom as standard with the series RR which is much better than using the bike loom anyway. For the other plug ( 3 yellow wires to stator ) the plug would mate but not lock into place, so a single cable tie keeps it together, and has done for years. Electrex promised to update the connectors in future, and would have modified mine but I was happy to keep it. You need about 10mm longer allen bolts because heatsink is slightly thicker in area of mounting lugs. The beauty of the 'series' unit is it only allows the power that is needed through, so instead of fully loading the stator coil all the time and wasting a lot of power as heat, it allows the coils to loaf along most of the time, which should hopefully prevent the normal motorbike problem of 'fried stator coils and burnt out connectors '...
I've always argued myself out of heated grips / gloves because while I do ride in winter, I don't feel I ride often enough to merit the cost of them ... but if I did have them, I'd probably use them from September through to May ;):DI've always thought they were unnecessary as I'm a fair weather rider these days. What changed my mind was a post by a southern Californian rider who used them. He said it allowed him to ride in the winter with summer gloves. The other issue is that the wide high bars of the TA means that my hands get colder than they did on the VFR.
So hopefully I'll be able to ride in Spring and Autumn without resorting to the oven gloves. [emoji16]
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SV650rules
13-02-24, 08:49 AM
The 'water absorbing ethanol contaminated fuel' we get these days had been in SV since October, and although I use petrol stability preservative ( StaBil ) I thought a good idea to get my Sealey vacuum sucker out ( used for doing oil changes on our cars via the dipstick hole, also used to get fork fluid out on bikes regularly and cleanly without taking forks off, just get the bike on ABBA stand ). I poked the tube down into lowest point of SV tank and sucked about a litre out each side hopefully any water would sink to the lowest point in tank. Will use drained fuel in lawnmower. Will never know if sucking fuel out did any good, but it only took 10 minutes anyway.
The 'water absorbing ethanol contaminated fuel' we get these days had been in SV since October, and although I use petrol stability preservative ( StaBil ) I thought a good idea to get my Sealey vacuum sucker out ( used for doing oil changes on our cars via the dipstick hole, also used to get fork fluid out on bikes regularly and cleanly without taking forks off, just get the bike on ABBA stand ). I poked the tube down into lowest point of SV tank and sucked about a litre out each side hopefully any water would sink to the lowest point in tank. Will use drained fuel in lawnmower. Will never know if sucking fuel out did any good, but it only took 10 minutes anyway.Better to be safe than sorry as they say.
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garynortheast
13-02-24, 02:06 PM
Fitted a cheap tyre pressure monitor to the TA. It has a rechargeable battery so no need to wire it into the bike. Seems to work ok.
https://i.postimg.cc/BngkhqPq/IMG-20240105-150747866-HDR.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
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Just wondering how this is faring John, after a month and a bit on the Honda.
Just wondering how this is faring John, after a month and a bit on the Honda.The bike hasn't moved since I installed it so not had a chance to see how it performs on the road. It seems to keep it's charge okay helped by turning it off when I've not been doing other jobs on the bike. Tyre pressures are still the same but it's picked up the varying temperatures over the last few weeks.
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Prepping the bike for a new riding season. Front and rear brakes removed to treat with anti corrosion measures. Red grease around the pistons to protect them. Bolts and pad retention pins covered with copper slip to stop them seizing. I cleaned the rear chain with paraffin before I garaged the bike and I should have then oiled it then but forgot, so it's now got some minor surface rust. So cleaned it again and oiled.
Next job was being mugged DVLA for road tax....£111.... What a joke.
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R1ffR4ff
29-02-24, 04:00 PM
I pay my Road Tax monthly. I don't feel so much then :)
I've changed to using dielectric grease as an anti-seize on bolts as recommended by Boat builders and Aircraft mechs . Anywhere where there's vibrations Blue-Thread lock which contrary to common belief actually protects bolts and thread from seizing.
I never use anything like paraffin on chains unless on a rag as I don't want the possibility of the pre-packed grease to be removed. I use GT85 on a rag and then spray the chains and sprockets. I got a good 18,000 miles on my last kit and I reckon I could have got another 10,000 but decided to treat the old gal to a new kit with one of those rubber dampened front sprockets. Haven't really noticed any difference from stock but it was about the same price anyway :)
I spray all my control/gear/clutch lever joints with GT85 every couple of months as routine and use it to re-waterproof my Gloves/Boots and Jacket as well ( only do it outside as although I like the smell it is very pervasive until it evaporates ) :O
Good point about the paraffin. It's the first time I've used it on a motorcycle as the chain was covered in grit and grime due to the sticky nature of the grease on the chain put there by Honda. I won't be using chain lube as I've got a chain oiler fitted, as I had done on my previous three bikes. My VFR had done 20k miles on the last chain I fitted, similar on my two SV's.
I might have some Tamiya dielectric grease in the garage. It's used to lubricate the mechanical speed controller without restricting electricity.
As for road tax, I pay for a year but SORN the bike on October 31st and get a refund. I then tax again on March 1st.
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re: tyre pressure sensor gadget, Just wondering how this is fairing John, after a month and a bit on the Honda.First test ride today. It worked fine and it's was interesting to note how the pressures vary as the tyres heat up. It shows the temp too. The downside is that the display isn't bright enough to cope with bright daylight. It looks like it has light sensor in the top of the frame but it doesn't seem to do much when you cover it, maybe it's faulty? For the price I can't complain though.
Update , I've just discovered that pushing the power button cycles through different brightness levels
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Making some ethanol free petrol for the new two stroke. I’m fortunate to have a wife who just laughs and shakes her head. Her parting shot was “Don’t set yourself on fire. Again” [emoji23]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240329/5dd3798778ed328f39587a51ae3ea9f0.jpg
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garynortheast
29-03-24, 06:18 PM
“Don’t set yourself on fire. Again” [emoji23]
I think we'd all rather you didn't Tam! But if you do.....
We want pictures! :smt046
Sir Trev
30-03-24, 05:48 PM
I took Hugh's gearshift off today to move it up a notch, as I was struggling to get my new boots under the lever to upshift. Bit disappointed to find it was as high as it can go without fouling on the engine case... Ah well, I'll get used to it.
SV650rules
30-03-24, 06:24 PM
I took Hugh's gearshift off today to move it up a notch, as I was struggling to get my new boots under the lever to upshift. Bit disappointed to find it was as high as it can go without fouling on the engine case... Ah well, I'll get used to it.
The only thing you can do is lower the footpeg... Or crank the lever out a bit
Sir Trev
31-03-24, 02:15 PM
I went out again this morning and found if I move my foot back a bit first it all works fine. Just need to change my muscle memory, that's all.
My boiler packed up on Easter Monday. It's well past it's best and needs replacing which I'll arrange this year. Meantime I knew the problem was the flue fan, it's been noisy for a while but in this case I think the motor winding had broken down as it works fine when cold. I've now replaced the whole fan assembly (simple job) and I can't believe how much quieter it is.
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SV650rules
05-04-24, 12:35 PM
Our Vaillant condensing boiler was installed in 1996, has stainless steel heat exchanger and is still going strong. It is on its third fan but only because flue was installed wrong.. They fitted it with flue pipe sloping back towards boiler, which meant condensed flue gasses ran back down flue pipe and dripped onto top of heat exchanger casing and filled the chamber where the fan was with acidic steam. Basically the first couple of fans lasted about 4 years each because the unsealed ball bearings rusted away, once I had spotted the wrong flue slope and sloped it away from boiler the 3rd fan still going strong.
R1ffR4ff
05-04-24, 01:42 PM
FYI I fitted a cheap heated Tap unit in my Kitchen. It's saved me loads on water and heating for washing up,
Heated Tap eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404627344665?itmmeta=01HTQ7V2DEFXMG981D5XFQFW0B&hash=item5e35ab4d19:g:VbUAAOSw3w9lVhy1&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwMh606DwTrZq4gXdh4yh%2BFwkdLm LOtEWWUsFqcvS%2FM39k3rhoJcCTKEKl3%2FOK8AX2yfkD4p32 dUd8tFyiROBxZcM6XPbQFEwEVm08BzJxbKLGeyAoVKH%2F%2Bv WA41Nu6IPN%2BDE%2FRCRV9QclbpDUhnOg8G2rdDeteK9I3f6% 2BzAug5g1dyfNtxezmPsIPyMmFfj8x%2FYCTxK3VilGcZTwYs1 jJvaZYaAlvjDIS2Q4BAWTjsiSLhVo1YIxOHdOXGxgZqA53w%3D %3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-am7OfVYw)
You do need a 30 amp cooker Electric point to take the current use and used on the cold water tap supply. There are more expensive and stylish ones if required.
HTH :)
FYI I fitted a cheap heated Tap unit in my Kitchen. It's saved me loads on water and heating for washing up,
Heated Tap eBay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404627344665?itmmeta=01HTQ7V2DEFXMG981D5XFQFW0B&hash=item5e35ab4d19:g:VbUAAOSw3w9lVhy1&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwMh606DwTrZq4gXdh4yh%2BFwkdLm LOtEWWUsFqcvS%2FM39k3rhoJcCTKEKl3%2FOK8AX2yfkD4p32 dUd8tFyiROBxZcM6XPbQFEwEVm08BzJxbKLGeyAoVKH%2F%2Bv WA41Nu6IPN%2BDE%2FRCRV9QclbpDUhnOg8G2rdDeteK9I3f6% 2BzAug5g1dyfNtxezmPsIPyMmFfj8x%2FYCTxK3VilGcZTwYs1 jJvaZYaAlvjDIS2Q4BAWTjsiSLhVo1YIxOHdOXGxgZqA53w%3D %3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-am7OfVYw)
You do need a 30 amp cooker Electric point to take the current use and used on the cold water tap supply. There are more expensive and stylish ones if required.
HTH :)That looks very neat.
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R1ffR4ff
05-04-24, 03:15 PM
That looks very neat.
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As it's my own Ex-Council house I fitted it myself. Just used a small flexi-hose ( Important) from the copper pipe to the tap,
Flexible tap hoses Screwfix (https://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/flexible-hoses/cat831572?cm_sp=managedredirect-_-plumbing-_-flexiblehoses)
You just get the diameters to match your pipes usually 15mm for most. I used to use my old Wall gas heater but worked out the pilot light was on all the time ( probably wasting around £50+ a year) and it lost a lot of water getting to the tap so it also reduced my Water-bill. It takes a little to get used to as it's about the same pressure as an electric shower but I'd never go back now. They are so cheap even if it lasted less than the 3 years I've had it I'd just buy another :)
PS
I used a bit of RTV gasket sealer at both ends just to make sure there were no leaks. Well I am a ,"Biker/Shady Tree Mechanic" :D
garynortheast
02-10-24, 05:53 PM
More a case of what am I going to tinker with tomorrow.
Took the bike into Welshpool today and on the way back gave it a cautious clean with the jet wash at a garage in Guilsfield. Tomorrow I'll get it up on the paddock stands and clean the bits the jet wash didn't reach and then coat it in ACF50 before I do an oil and filter change. We're on 108,000 miles now so got to look after the old girl!
maviczap
02-10-24, 06:42 PM
Good to see the old girl is going strong:-)
garynortheast
02-10-24, 07:10 PM
Lovely old bike Mav, just keeps on going.
R1ffR4ff
03-10-24, 10:54 AM
More a case of what am I going to tinker with tomorrow.
Took the bike into Welshpool today and on the way back gave it a cautious clean with the jet wash at a garage in Guilsfield. Tomorrow I'll get it up on the paddock stands and clean the bits the jet wash didn't reach and then coat it in ACF50 before I do an oil and filter change. We're on 108,000 miles now so got to look after the old girl!
Hope you don't mind but I like to hear what parts ( not consumables) on High-Mileage bikes that may have had to been replaced over the years if you would :)
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