What have you tinkered with today? [Archive] - Page 19 - SV650.org

Craig380

11-07-20, 07:45 AM

The Dorso has thrown up another code today, so it looks like the throttle demand sensor might need replaced. Which are not cheap!

I need to get it to a dealer to have a proper look at it and confirm what the problem is. Don't really have the cash for that right now so :(

I may be barking up the wrong tree here but is the sensor a generic automotive electrics part? The reason I ask is this:

Guy in the same office building as me has a 2002 Monster 900 (injected). He was having all sorts of problems with the bike cutting out and not restarting, stranding him, or simply never starting at all. Happened completely at random. He replaced the clock-set (because of the immobiliser) costing him hundreds but it didn't sort it.

After he told me about all this I had a google and found the crank position sensor on the aircooled 900s goes duff, and is quite a common problem. Ducati dealers want £110 for the sensor, but some clever bloke on the Monster forums worked out the sensor is a actually a generic Bosch job as fitted to millions of Fiat Puntos globally, priced at ..... £17.99.

I told him, and he ordered one to try it. We checked the two sensors side by side, and they were identical - apart from the one off the bike had "Ducati" printed on the connector, and the replacement had "Bosch." 2 minutes to check the air gap was fine, plugged it in and it fired up straight away, and has never cut out again.

Your sensor maybe a more generic off-the-shelf component from whoever makes the injection system.

admin

11-07-20, 08:18 AM

I may be barking up the wrong tree here but is the sensor a generic automotive electrics part? The reason I ask is this:

Guy in the same office building as me has a 2002 Monster 900 (injected). He was having all sorts of problems with the bike cutting out and not restarting, stranding him, or simply never starting at all. Happened completely at random. He replaced the clock-set (because of the immobiliser) costing him hundreds but it didn't sort it.

After he told me about all this I had a google and found the crank position sensor on the aircooled 900s goes duff, and is quite a common problem. Ducati dealers want £110 for the sensor, but some clever bloke on the Monster forums worked out the sensor is a actually a generic Bosch job as fitted to millions of Fiat Puntos globally, priced at ..... £17.99.

I told him, and he ordered one to try it. We checked the two sensors side by side, and they were identical - apart from the one off the bike had "Ducati" printed on the connector, and the replacement had "Bosch." 2 minutes to check the air gap was fine, plugged it in and it fired up straight away, and has never cut out again.

Your sensor maybe a more generic off-the-shelf component from whoever makes the injection system.This is quite common. I had a Ford Sierra many years ago which needed a new Cv joint. My local garage used one marked GKN rather than going to Ford, much cheaper and they supplied Ford anyway.

Car factories are really just assembly plants sourcing parts from wherever. It's cheaper for them to use standard parts where possible.

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SV650rules

11-07-20, 08:18 AM

Car and motorbike companies don't make their own sensors, that is a job for specialist companies like Bosch, Hitachi or Magneti Marelli. They all go down same production line but at the end a different logo and maybe part number is printed on them and the price is ramped up accordingly, the same sensor that fits a Fiat and costs £20 probably fits a Ferrari but will cost £300... it is all down to what the buyer is perceived to be able to afford.

DarrenSV650S

11-07-20, 06:06 PM

I may be barking up the wrong tree here but is the sensor a generic automotive electrics part? The reason I ask is this:

Guy in the same office building as me has a 2002 Monster 900 (injected). He was having all sorts of problems with the bike cutting out and not restarting, stranding him, or simply never starting at all. Happened completely at random. He replaced the clock-set (because of the immobiliser) costing him hundreds but it didn't sort it.

After he told me about all this I had a google and found the crank position sensor on the aircooled 900s goes duff, and is quite a common problem. Ducati dealers want £110 for the sensor, but some clever bloke on the Monster forums worked out the sensor is a actually a generic Bosch job as fitted to millions of Fiat Puntos globally, priced at ..... £17.99.

I told him, and he ordered one to try it. We checked the two sensors side by side, and they were identical - apart from the one off the bike had "Ducati" printed on the connector, and the replacement had "Bosch." 2 minutes to check the air gap was fine, plugged it in and it fired up straight away, and has never cut out again.

Your sensor maybe a more generic off-the-shelf component from whoever makes the injection system.
That would be brilliant if that was the case. I might investigate the part and see if there are part numbers I can google

R1ffR4ff

11-07-20, 07:42 PM

It's quite common for general Automotive parts to be re-branded and used on Motorcycles. Things like Temp sensors/Fan thermo switches/Thermostats/ Rad caps etc.Things like wheel bearings as well which are just general Engineering bearings.

gadget

24-07-20, 06:26 PM

Just made up a 'direct to battery' lead, for my curvy, bought new Yuasa battery and fitted my new 'Electrex' rectifier. So hopefully ... no more crap charging problems.

eddybail

28-07-20, 08:12 PM

Fitted a new set of Tarozzi high rise clipons and a cheapo set of bar end mirrors to my 650x

The clipons give the bike a street fighter type look, the riding position is comfy and the steering light and confident. And funnily the bar ends, although cheap, give a much better view behind than the stock mirrors which has never been the case on any of my other bikes!

Adam Ef

28-07-20, 09:53 PM

Any photos?

eddybail

29-07-20, 07:51 PM

http://i.postimg.cc/PJkz8f9F/20200729-202531.jpg

eddybail

29-07-20, 07:52 PM

http://i.postimg.cc/Fzgbb5QF/20200729-202543.jpg

eddybail

29-07-20, 07:53 PM

http://i.postimg.cc/g0QKmHDp/20200729-202614.jpg

eddybail

29-07-20, 07:57 PM

https://i.postimg.cc/mD9yD1XH/20200729-202556.jpg

Adam Ef

29-07-20, 08:36 PM

Looks good :-)

DamoK4

01-08-20, 02:34 PM

Just taken the taken the forks back to bare metal ready for cleaning and spraying before the new springs go in. They were pretty oxidised so should look miles better later

TheRamJam

07-08-20, 11:05 AM

We upgraded the suspension on my brothers Z1000 SX with some HyperPro springs front and rear.

https://i.ibb.co/9tw1rB1/IMG-20200711-WA0001.jpg (https://ibb.co/SrQM3HM)
https://i.ibb.co/nLM5wJn/IMG-20200711-WA0002.jpg (https://ibb.co/Krx35vL)

garynortheast

10-08-20, 05:08 PM

Over the last couple of days, fitted a new rear tyre, chain and sprockets ( big thank you to Zunkus for sending me a very nice rear sprocket all the way from Malta!), synced the carbs, and replaced all the instrument and idiot lights, working and dud, with LEDs. I can now see how fast I’m going in the dark!

SV650rules

11-08-20, 09:41 AM

Just tried to fit the Electrex RR851 'series' RR to AL7 2016 to replace 'shunt' OEM type.

Physically it is OK, but the plugs are not quite right - On the AL7 for the stator wires the projecting locking tab is on the bike harness plug, but the Electrex plug comes with a projecting locking tab - so if I try to plug in the two projecting locking tabs will hit each other and not find the recess that should be there ( the electrex plug needs a recess for the suzuki tab to click into, instead it has another locking tab ). On the 12VDC plug, the plugs would fit except the suzuki one on bike has a split key slot on bike harness socket, with a matching split projecting separator on the RR plug, the electrex 12VDC plug has a solid key in a different position...I could make them fit if I dremelled off the orientation key on the electrex harness plug, but don't want to do that as it would invalidate the warranty. I will email Electrex with photos and see what they say - the only way I could fit electrex RR as it is would be to bodge the plugs or solder the connections...... and the harness on the bike is so tight can hardly get plugs out to even unplug them, let alone have enough room to cut wires and crimp on bullets or solder and heatshrink them..

Electrex do supply a moulded plug body and 3 crimp on female spade connectors with the RR for the stator cables, and that plug body will fit the one on their RR lead, but I can hardly get to the stator plug on bike to unplug it, let alone cut cables and crimp new spades on, in any case that would make the bike end of the stator cables non-standard and I could not fit a standard suzuki OEM RR if I needed to....

timwilky

11-08-20, 01:46 PM

Need to get to the auxillary connection in order to use it to trigger a relay to give me fused power to heated grips, usb for camera, etc. I know exactly where it is but a mare of a place get at.

So remove "Meter Panels", fairings, seat, tank sides and lift tank and I can see it. But can I get to it with long grab to lift it to plug in cable?

If not it is then remove ECU, remove air filter and the air box. What a faff it is as if Suzuki don't want people to use the auxilary connection.

Bibio

11-08-20, 03:26 PM

Dave20046

13-08-20, 11:32 AM

I've been intending to fit a new clutch and service but the weather has been sublime so I've ridden every day the past few days...it's been great
Over the last couple of days, fitted a new rear tyre, chain and sprockets ( big thank you to Zunkus for sending me a very nice rear sprocket all the way from Malta!), synced the carbs, and replaced all the instrument and idiot lights, working and dud, with LEDs. I can now see how fast I’m going in the dark!

Good to hear zunkus is still lurking, nice chap IIRC...and even nicer buelly sv

dirtydog

15-08-20, 08:03 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200815/f95858ebb295e7cbe9b294d45fb7fea2.jpg
Fitted my new billet top yoke and renthal bars which look to be about a mile wide, they’ll need to be cut down a lot I think

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Sean_Morgan

16-08-20, 01:42 PM

Finally got round to setting the TPS thanks to the 2004 step by step guide provided by coombest. Thanks for the guide if you are still a member [emoji106][emoji106]
Turned into a longer job than usual due to the idle adjuster being seized, off came the air box and out came the WD40, another job done that I kept meaning to get round to
The bike certainly seems to pick up better at lower revs but I haven't been out on it, its raining here.
Previously it wouldn't hold steady revs at around 2000rpm, it was quite lumpy and seemed to wander slightly (I know what I mean [emoji23][emoji23])
If it brightens up I'll go out and see how it rides, or it'll wait till tomorrow [emoji106]

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Adam Ef

16-08-20, 09:18 PM

A bit of work on the CRF.
Air box mod.. not sure how much difference this is actually going to make.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50233702502_014f7be0a8_c.jpg

And then moved the EJK off the bars (where it's being living as I adjust it with each ride) as I'm now happy with the way it's fueling, and tucked it in at the back next to the speedo healer (needed due to the sprocket swap and general inaccuracy of the speedo when stock anyway).

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50232830418_063a58f895_c.jpg

Also finally got round to doing the oil and filter change that I'm fairly sure didn't happen as part of the "service" the dealer gave it before I picked it up. Bit of a faff. Involved removing the R&G engine cover... which needed the bash plate and the brake pedal removing too before it could come off. Then the oil filter on the CRF is in the engine behind a cover and gasket that needs unbolting. Not the simplest or quickest oil filter change I've ever done.

Craig380

17-08-20, 07:46 AM

What is the airbox mod, Adam? Extra air holes? The part you're holding looks quite restrictive for a 250, but I suppose it's got to prevent muck, bullets and water getting it too.

Adam Ef

17-08-20, 09:59 AM

There's a snorkel up top too, but quite a small aperture even with the snorkel removed. This is supposedly to allow a bit more air to get in for the freer flowing FMF exhaust that it came fitted with, so that the EJK can set the fueling right for both. Such a simple little bike that everyone fits loads of these complicated additions to :-)

Dave20046

18-08-20, 09:59 AM

New spring in the old workhorse (cage) and checked the dampers.

garynortheast

22-08-20, 06:08 AM

Took the rear tyre off again as it was leaking from the bead. Washed out the Tyreweld I used to keep it up on my trip to Yorkshire, cleaned the entire bead area of the rim with wet and dry, and refitted the tyre.

Cleaning my rim. Maybe I should rephrase that? :shock:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50253727148_1b4592d712_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jyKugw)
Reseat tyre (https://flic.kr/p/2jyKugw) by garynortheast (https://www.flickr.com/photos/67411872@N03/)

All back together and hopefully leak free.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50253727133_9754736cf2_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jyKugg)
Reseat tyre (https://flic.kr/p/2jyKugg) by garynortheast (https://www.flickr.com/photos/67411872@N03/)

SV650rules

22-08-20, 10:55 AM

Fitted a voltmeter ( recommended by R1ffR4ff in another thread ) to the AL7 with a couple of spring clips fixed with M3 countersunks to a piece of 30x10x2mm aluminium angle ( i had it in garage but got it from Wickes last year for a job in the house ). The voltmeter reads about 0.2 volts low compared to my good quality voltmeter, but as long as you know you can allow for it. The blue display is easy to read in daylight and is waterproof. The width fits between the handlebar clamps on the bike and is wired across sidelight bulb with a 1 amp fuse in + cable. Put a wrap of self-amalgamating tape around the spring legs to grip handlebar and stop it scratching. There is a pre-cut piece of 3M double sided tape supplied with voltmeter, that is why I used countersunk screws to mount spring clips to aluminium to keep mounting area as flat as possible. The sprong clips mounting means I can rotate the meter to get rid of reflections etc.

A PDF photo of the fitted meter is attached.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Motorcycle-12V-Digital-LED-Display-Voltmeter-Voltage-Gauge-Panel-Meter-UK/164305898746?hash=item2641650cfa:g:LMAAAOSwh4BfG6~ H&redirect=mobile

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Merriway%C2%AE-BH01976-Storage-Spring-Bright/dp/B00OBFHUE4/ref=sr_1_242?dchild=1&keywords=Merriway&qid=1598092997&sr=8-242

--

R1ffR4ff

22-08-20, 11:00 AM

Fitted a voltmeter ( recommended by R1ffR4ff in another thread ) to the AL7 with a couple of spring clips fixed with M3 countersunks to a piece of 30x10x2mm aluminium angle ( i had it in garage but got it from Wickes last year for a job in the house ). The voltmeter reads about 0.2 volts low compared to my good quality voltmeter, but as long as you know you can allow for it. The blue display is easy to read in daylight and is waterproof. The width fits between the handlebar clamps on the bike and is wired across sidelight bulb with a 1 amp fuse in + cable. Put a wrap of self-amalgamating tape around the spring legs to grip handlebar and stop it scratching.

A PDF photo of the fitted meter is attached.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Motorcycle-12V-Digital-LED-Display-Voltmeter-Voltage-Gauge-Panel-Meter-UK/164305898746?hash=item2641650cfa:g:LMAAAOSwh4BfG6~ H&redirect=mobile

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Merriway%C2%AE-BH01976-Storage-Spring-Bright/dp/B00OBFHUE4/ref=sr_1_242?dchild=1&keywords=Merriway&qid=1598092997&sr=8-242

Nice one :)

Because I tend to guinea pig stuff like my cheap £14.95 R/R(Which is still going strong after two years) I needed a way to keep an eye on my Charging system hence I did similar to you. Yours meter looks nicer though :)

I was considering fitting one of these into my Rev counter but I do like the proper volts being shown and like you allow for the slight resistance effect/voltage drop from using the Horn as the supply,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GAMMATRONIX-waterproof-12v-LED-Battery-level-Alternator-Charge-monitor-E/190462726857?hash=item2c587692c9:g:TSIAAOxycmBS2Hv 2

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/TSIAAOxycmBS2Hv2/s-l1600.jpg

SV650rules

22-08-20, 11:24 AM

That is similar to this one ( think a link was posted by Seeker ) I did contact this company and they did not have to 10mm one, only 8mm and 5mm
I did not go for it because at anything above 13.1 volts it goes green, and 13.1 volts will not keep battery charged ( the float voltage is over 13.6
volts and that will just about maintain charge if no load on battery - most battery 'maintainers' settle on 13.6 to 13.8 volts for long term
maintenance of battery when battery is fully charged) - I would rather have the voltmeter readout and use my own judgement.....

http://www.sparkbright.co.uk/sparkbright-eclipse-battery-voltage-monitor.php

I went for the sidelight power on my bike for voltmeter because by turning key to sidelight position I can get a truer snapshot of battery voltage reading
with only power or front and rear LED sidelights draining from battery rather than turn ignition on fully and have everything else including headlight sucking on the battery...

aj76

23-08-20, 04:50 PM

No work on the bikes but managed to time it between the showers to fit a new exhaust on the daughter's car after the hanger bracket gave way last week. Saved £180 quid by ordering online and fitting myself and have to admit I enjoyed getting the spanners out [emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200823/1a99ef86075314dc0f39f9f768193e16.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200823/7aaaaef3e87209fca2e289d40c0d2a85.jpg

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gadget

24-08-20, 05:58 PM

Well ... finally managed to sort out my curvy charging issues after many posts for help from many members here. Fitted a reg/rec ( FH022BA) as fitted to Yamaha MT10, updated all wiring from the reg to 4mm! (Probably total overkill) all joints soldered, extra earth from reg to sub frame, reg/rec 'direct to battery' mod with 4mm and 30amp fuse, all soldered joints heatshrunk and silicone tube sealed, brand new Yuasa YT12S-BA Battery. Started up the bike and .... something I've not seen before .... 14.5v at idle! ... lights full on & idling ... 13.5v, lights on full and revving at 4-5000 .. 14.6v. The reg/rec runs soooooo much cooler too.
Unfortunately the rec/rec won't quite fit in the usual place behind the side fairing so relocation is the only option. So now thinking I may fabricate a nice shiney alloy heatsink/mounting bracket and mount it on the left passenger foot rest hangar as they are 'no more' and the bracket is now redundant. It of course will be totally weather proofed and suitably protected from the elements. So ...all in all really chuffed with the results and many thanks to all the members on here who advised, contributed, and generally put up with my ramblings over this problem project.

Dave20046

24-08-20, 07:03 PM

That's good news and sounds quite a bit of work. Well done

gadget

24-08-20, 07:17 PM

That's good news and sounds quite a bit of work. Well done

Thanks, it's been a bit of a mission tbh but worth all the effort, I may have a rethink on the mounting location as I have read somewhere that there is considerably more room on the left hand side opposite the original mounting place, plus there seems to be a tapped hole already in the sub frame.
Will check it out Tomorrow and do a bit of trial and error. As the new reg/rec runs so much cooler I don't think it will suffer anywhere near as much as the original did under the side panel.

Dave20046

25-08-20, 08:02 PM

Thanks, it's been a bit of a mission tbh but worth all the effort, I may have a rethink on the mounting location as I have read somewhere that there is considerably more room on the left hand side opposite the original mounting place, plus there seems to be a tapped hole already in the sub frame.
Will check it out Tomorrow and do a bit of trial and error. As the new reg/rec runs so much cooler I don't think it will suffer anywhere near as much as the original did under the side panel.

Not sure that's true. IIRC it's in the tail piece? You have the lock mech on the other side, unless they weren't created equal...

Take it you're on a naked bike?

gadget

26-08-20, 05:56 AM

Not sure that's true. IIRC it's in the tail piece? You have the lock mech on the other side, unless they weren't created equal...

Take it you're on a naked bike?

Not naked, it's an 's' 1999.
Defo not in the tail as I took it out from the right side factory subframe mount.
The left side has no rectifier mounting bracket, only a single bolt thread into the subframe roughly opposite
the right side mount so ... without measuring it seems to be a potential place to re-position the rec, seat cable goes nowhere near it as far as I can see. I've still yet to try it all out but it looks promising.

dirtydog

26-08-20, 07:04 AM

Dave20046

26-08-20, 09:07 AM

Not naked, it's an 's' 1999.
Defo not in the tail as I took it out from the right side factory subframe mount.
The left side has no rectifier mounting bracket, only a single bolt thread into the subframe roughly opposite
the right side mount so ... without measuring it seems to be a potential place to re-position the rec, seat cable goes nowhere near it as far as I can see. I've still yet to try it all out but it looks promising.

Ah, I'm misremembering then. I thought it was in the back pod. If it wasn't running cooler as you say, I'd be tempted to hide it upfront under the fairing somewhere so it get some cooling while riding.

gadget

26-08-20, 08:02 PM

Ah, I'm misremembering then. I thought it was in the back pod. If it wasn't running cooler as you say, I'd be tempted to hide it upfront under the fairing somewhere so it get some cooling while riding.

Today I did a load of measuring and trial fitting of the rectifier under the left side panel and it's all good, plenty of room even when mounting first to a 6mm alloy heatsink, seat lock cable is totally clear of the rec too. If anyone has the inclination to move their rectifier I would defo recommend swapping sides.

gadget

26-08-20, 08:11 PM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200826/42a2a616120a6b0a731762592fdd1ff0.jpg
Got my bar conversion done, needs a bit of tidying up which I’ll do later when I’ve got some time

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks pretty awesome, exactly what I have planned for my curvy S, the clipons are ok around town but journeys are killing my old bones! What top yoke did you use? And ...£??. Did you have to trim the screen at all for bar clearance? What bars did you use? Width/rise/ etc. I was planning to mod/weld the standard yoke and drill for risers but if the yoke is decent money I may rethink it. Ooo... and what's the little red light on yer dash for?

CheGuevara

15-09-20, 01:56 PM

Christmas has come early:

https://i.imgur.com/ZKaW6Lm.jpg

Though of course few things ever just plain works out. Installing the rearsets today and I've discovered my Hel rear brake line is too short!

I had Hel lines and GB Moto rearsets on my old K5:

https://i.imgur.com/uMUM6xl.jpg

...and I don't remember requesting a longer line there, so perhaps something has changed.

Anyhow new line to be ordered (Hel are pretty quick, but these lines are fairly new, so a bit of a shame to waste the £££) , and the shock to be installed shortly, once I can determine whether either of the provided springs are suitable.

dirtydog

15-09-20, 02:29 PM

That looks pretty awesome, exactly what I have planned for my curvy S, the clipons are ok around town but journeys are killing my old bones! What top yoke did you use? And ...£??. Did you have to trim the screen at all for bar clearance? What bars did you use? Width/rise/ etc. I was planning to mod/weld the standard yoke and drill for risers but if the yoke is decent money I may rethink it. Ooo... and what's the little red light on yer dash for?

The top yoke was from eBay, company called Moto-cnc and was £130. It’s nice but the way the ignition barrel attaches is a bit rubbish.
Not sure if they do a specific one for the Sv as mine has Gsxr srad front end
Bars are Renthal road low bars. They’re too wide but easily trimmed once you know where your grips stop.

I had to cut a couple of cable ties to free up the wires for the switch gear and I fitted throttle and clutch cables from a naked Sv.

Yeah had to trim the screen to clear the bars.

I did the swap as for the last couple of years I’ve been suffering with Reynauds syndrome in my hands. Then had a ride on a cb650 with bars and had no problems with my hands on that 200 mile ride

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

dirtydog

15-09-20, 02:30 PM

Oh and the red light is actually a switch for the rocket launchers [emoji6]

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shiftin_gear98

15-09-20, 03:14 PM

I wish my bike had a rocket launcher.

dirtydog

15-09-20, 03:24 PM

I wish my bike had a rocket launcher.

It would make commuting a bit easier/more fun

It is a switch but no longer connected to anything, can’t even remember what it actually switched on or off [emoji2369]

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gadget

15-09-20, 05:21 PM

Nice looking rear sets, was toying with the idea of buying some nice sparkly gold/silver ones, will probably wait till I get my top curvy 'S' yoke sorted/modified for drag bars then that will give me a good idea of where my feet are best placed for max comfort.

yokohama

15-09-20, 07:07 PM

Naked pointies are such good looking bikes .... ah, nostalgia.

Craig380

15-09-20, 08:34 PM

Oil change, spark plug check and hoover the air filter.

Also put the db killer back in the Yoshi can, the bike has a slightly sharper response at part throttle between 3,000 and 4,000rpm with it out but it's WAY too loud without it, gives me a headache even with earplugs in.

CheGuevara

16-09-20, 07:17 AM

I did this last night....

Linkage from a 4K mile bike (new to me in Jan) that hasn't seen much wet weather:

https://i.imgur.com/fuqjLZd.jpg

It looked worse once the spacers were out (especially the middle set of bearings). Spent about an hour scrubbing the rust out, ran the spacers (and bolts and nuts and dogbones) over the wire wheel (some small patches of minor pitting on the spacers) and then reassembled with plenty of good quality water resistant grease.

I think I caught it just in time, but I think I'll plan to replace parts next year. It doesn't appear there was ever any more than the thinnest film (at best) of grease in there from new.

Anyhow all back together now, with a few scraped knuckles (not a great job for large hands) and just left to work out how/where to mount the Nitron shock reservoir.

Adam Ef

16-09-20, 07:24 AM

Did the Nitron shock come with the clamp / holder for the reservoir?

CheGuevara

16-09-20, 07:41 AM

Did the Nitron shock come with the clamp / holder for the reservoir?

It didn't, so I'll need to bodge something for now. Though it has a fairly long hose - I did wonder if I might be able to get it under the seat/trunk/toolbox. I'll go have another look/think a bit later, though suggestions are welcome of course :)

Dave20046

16-09-20, 09:26 AM

Adam Ef

16-09-20, 01:38 PM

CheGuevara

16-09-20, 02:14 PM

Can you get hold of the proper clamp from Nitron. I seem to remember bolting min eon with the proper clamp near the pillion pegs somewhere. There's a couple of bolt hole on the frame. I might have only been able to line up one bolt though.

Or large rubber coated P-Clips off eBay.

Cheers- I like the P-Clip idea (I'm assuming the nitron option won't be cheap if it comes to that), but I think I'm going to try and mount it in the trunk - away from any crud, and anyone who might be tempted to fiddle with knobs when it's parked.

SV650rules

16-09-20, 02:23 PM

Or large rubber coated P-Clips off eBay.

I thought those P clips were a medical thing for incontinence :rolleyes:

Adam Ef

16-09-20, 08:54 PM

Found a photo of my old SV with the Nitron reservoir on it..

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48024685067_bd0b59110f_c.jpg

shiftin_gear98

18-09-20, 11:36 AM

Did you ever ride it Adam, it's very clean.

CheGuevara

18-09-20, 01:47 PM

Found a photo of my old SV with the Nitron reservoir on it..
[/IMG]

Cheers! Still going to aim for the trunk, but if that doesn't work out I'll give Nitron a shout.

Adam Ef

18-09-20, 05:27 PM

Did you ever ride it Adam, it's very clean.

That was a for sale photo so it had been deep cleaned and polished. It did get dirty sometimes but I was quite careful to clean it and not leave road crud on it to corrode it.

DarrenSV650S

19-09-20, 03:35 PM

I unblocked the water drain from the fuel filler area. I tried pushing wire down it but it didn't go very far, so I had to lift the tank. Looks like the plastic tank has swollen, so it can't just lift up on the hinge anymore. I had to remove the hinge bolt and even then it only just scrapped past the immobiliser antenna on the ignition barrel, which is apparently very fragile.

I fed the wire in to the tank from the bottom connection and the water drained out. So at least that is fixed, but it kinda sucks that a 5 year old bike has a knackered tank.

languidb

21-09-20, 04:29 PM

Guys, what have I done? How bad is it? There's no oil leak, yet, but I think I'm in trouble. Is this a stripped bolt, or something worse? The whole crank case surface has come loose and rotated.

EDIT: pictured is the oil drain plug.

https://i.ibb.co/9bpqY5f/AA2-A7-D69-2-D66-4-BB0-8-ECA-CEA5918-B2686.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/k9JB83J/w.png

SV650rules

21-09-20, 05:13 PM

How long have you had the bike and have you changed oil before ? It almost seems as though the thread may have stripped and been repaired ( maybe that epoxy metal or similar, or even welded and alloy has failed along the heat affected zone )...

languidb

21-09-20, 05:28 PM

It's new to me, I changed the oil for the first time two days ago, though I replaced the crush washer which looked worn out (it had developed a small lip) with a drain plug washer I ordered from wemoto, but that looks more like a regular washer.

I didn't tighten up the plug much more than hand-tight, but today when I returned to drain the oil again (I intended to change the filter as well this time) the bolt was very difficult to undo, and caused this to happen.

maybe I can limp it over to a shop for them to ponder over..

gadget

21-09-20, 06:53 PM

yokohama

21-09-20, 09:47 PM

Dave20046

21-09-20, 10:21 PM

Chainged the engine oil on the SV for some nice new 'Smith & Allen' 10w40 semi synthetic together with a new oil filter, new iridium plugs will be going in tomorrow as will a new air filter.
Nothing ground breaking unfortunately but necessary.
Hopefully the new and 'different' spec oil will return my clutch to somewhere near normal as when I previously changed it to Silkolene fully synthetic... the clutch started to drag almost instantly after I put it in!? I removed cleaned and liberally greased the clutch slave and it didn't make hardly any difference, so ... here's hoping.
Never actually heard of smith and allen but it sounds like it would help. I only use semi synth (I think), but always v-twin type, putoline if you're interested...I rate it, especially for the price but I change oil every 3k or year strictly . Does smith & allen have v-twin modifers?
I know someone who had what you had on non-vtwin type fully synth.

You may do well to change it again with a shot of liquid-moli or other flush. Clutches have a tendency to bind to whatever the last oil they had was.

R1ffR4ff

22-09-20, 03:18 PM

I've been using Smith and Allen MA2 10w40 semi-synthetic in my 99 for a couple of years now.Excellent oil and zero problems. I get a full Gallon/5 litres delivered to my door for around £19. Enough to do two oil changes :)

https://www.smithandallan.com/products/transport-motorcycle/1868-smith-and-allan-limitless-super-4t-10w-40---semi-synthetic-motorcycle-oil/

I add half a teaspoon of high concentrate MSo2 mixed into half a litre of the oil before I start adding to the engine.

HTH :)

gadget

22-09-20, 05:16 PM

I used Smith and Allen oil on my SV and it was fine, Never gave me any problems. My 04 pointy was sensitive to the oil level though. It liked mid-level between maximum and minimum or slightly over the mid. Any overfilling or moving close towards maximum level on the window caused the clutch to drag and really slow,heavy gear changes.

Funny you mention the fill Mark's as when I previously filled it with the fully synthetic it was spot on the upper mark, maybe this also contributed to the clutch drag!?
I have now filled the sump with the Smith n Allen oil .. up to the upper level.. so if I get a bit of drag again I guess I could try dropping a little oil out and see how the clutch behaves. It was perfect before the first (synthetic) oil change and then gave problems, I didn't check the old oil level before hand so have no reference point apart from the indicated oil max n min Mark's.

gadget

22-09-20, 05:25 PM

Never actually heard of smith and allen but it sounds like it would help. I only use semi synth (I think), but always v-twin type, putoline if you're interested...I rate it, especially for the price but I change oil every 3k or year strictly . Does smith & allen have v-twin modifers?
I know someone who had what you had on non-vtwin type fully synth.

You may do well to change it again with a shot of liquid-moli or other flush. Clutches have a tendency to bind to whatever the last oil they had was.

Interesting, this isn't the first time I've heard of the clutch drag problem with fully synth, I'm not sure if the Smith n Allen 10w40 part synth is V twin specific but it's in there now so when I get a chance to ride it I'll post up my findings, as another member mentioned ... it may be that the level contributed to the drag! So I'll just have to do a bit of testing and experimenting with levels n see if any changes occur.

gadget

22-09-20, 05:31 PM

Dave20046

22-09-20, 05:58 PM

I paid £19 also, seems like a good alternative to the other brands too,
Btw ... what is ms02? Or am I being a bit thick?
Liquimolly additive. Probably worth using on cheap oil.

Oil level is a good shout but if not right on the 'F' line shouldn't be the issue... you did check it upright (off the stand) and on flat ground didn't you? :oops:

gadget

22-09-20, 06:23 PM

Liquimolly additive. Probably worth using on cheap oil.

Oil level is a good shout but if not right on the 'F' line shouldn't be the issue... you did check it upright (off the stand) and on flat ground didn't you? :oops:

The Smith n Allen 10w40 semi synth is supposed to be a very good quality oil so I'm not duly worried about that, bike was checked on the flat and level and perfectly upright, oil level is bang on the top (full) mark. As yet I haven't ridden it but will do so soon, then I can see what difference the semi synth oil has made (if any), if there's no noticable improvement I'll experiment with dropping a little oil out so it's just below the top mark and see if the clutch stops dragging.
The bike has only done 12000 miles, 1999. The clutch basket is perfect with zero signs of wear, the push rod is straight and true, the clutch worm has been thoroughly cleaned and regressed, cable is free and lubricated so ... I'm hoping it's an oil type/ level issue as I've read many times that the SV is sensitive to type and level. Here's hoping.

R1ffR4ff

22-09-20, 06:25 PM

I paid £19 also, seems like a good alternative to the other brands too,
Btw ... what is ms02? Or am I being a bit thick?

Molybdenum Di-Sulphide/Molybdenum disulfide

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

https://www.engineersedge.com/lubrication/molybdenum_disulfide_characteristics.htm

Some people like myself believe in it and some don't. I've been using it for over 40 years on older engines. Even oil companies have caught up as some Higher priced/spec engine Oils now contain it.

Contrary to some people's beliefs it does not affect the fibrous Clutch plates and does not cause,"Clutch-Slip".

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/heres-why-liqui-moly-actually-works

I also use a bit it to make my own Chain lube/oil.

Dave20046

22-09-20, 06:31 PM

The Smith n Allen 10w40 semi synth is supposed to be a very good quality oil so I'm not duly worried about that, bike was checked on the flat and level and perfectly upright, oil level is bang on the top (full) mark. As yet I haven't ridden it but will do so soon, then I can see what difference the semi synth oil has made (if any), if there's no noticable improvement I'll experiment with dropping a little oil out so it's just below the top mark and see if the clutch stops dragging.
The bike has only done 12000 miles, 1999. The clutch basket is perfect with zero signs of wear, the push rod is straight and true, the clutch worm has been thoroughly cleaned and regressed, cable is free and lubricated so ... I'm hoping it's an oil type/ level issue as I've read many times that the SV is sensitive to type and level. Here's hoping.

If that's a cold reading I'd definitely syringe a bit out.

I didn't mean the cheap in a snarky way but I I used putoline which (used to be?) regarded as a cheap oil and it's £24 for 4l - I guessed at £19 smith & allen may have ommitted something. Quality wise , if it's all stamped up it will be quality enough (longevity good to a year at least too) - but the shared engine and clutch oil does need a bit of thinking about - you need the engine to be lube'd and the clutch to be able to grab to some extent.

Dave20046

22-09-20, 06:34 PM

I been tinkering.

Full service, new boots (my favourite brand) and a new clutch.

https://i.ibb.co/6RskTjk/thumbnail-IMG-6488.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/QY9kg8F/thumbnail-IMG-6485.jpg

SV650rules

22-09-20, 06:34 PM

Molybdenum Di-Sulphide/Molybdenum disulfide

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

https://www.engineersedge.com/lubrication/molybdenum_disulfide_characteristics.htm

Some people like myself believe in it and some don't. I've been using it for over 40 years on older engines. Even oil companies have caught up as some Higher priced/spec engine Oils now contain it.

Contrary to some people's beliefs it does not affect the fibrous Clutch plates and does not cause,"Clutch-Slip".

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/heres-why-liqui-moly-actually-works

I also use a bit it to make my own Chain lube/oil.

I have used 2% molyslip or liquimoly in my AL7 for almost 4 years now and no problems, mind you I do use castrol fully synth oil.

R1ffR4ff

22-09-20, 06:43 PM

I have used 2% molyslip or liquimoly in my AL7 for almost 4 years now and no problems, mind you I do use castrol fully synth oil.

It's been used for years in Ocean going Liners and Tankers even in,"Dry" form for their drive-shafts/bearings. There are some very expensive Industrial strength versions available which are way over-the-top for domestic use. I always used Moly grease/paste with some more added on my old Honda Shaft-Drives. It kept the splines from wearing :)

gadget

22-09-20, 07:23 PM

If that's a cold reading I'd definitely syringe a bit out.

I didn't mean the cheap in a snarky way but I I used putoline which (used to be?) regarded as a cheap oil and it's £24 for 4l - I guessed at £19 smith & allen may have ommitted something. Quality wise , if it's all stamped up it will be quality enough (longevity good to a year at least too) - but the shared engine and clutch oil does need a bit of thinking about - you need the engine to be lube'd and the clutch to be able to grab to some extent.

Certainly no offence taken, only reason for choosing the Smith n Allen was that I wanted to go back to semi synth as opposed to the fully I was using to see if it cured the clutch drag and also the Smith n Allen oil exceeds all requirements needed for this engine, the price was just a bonus.
I probably will drop a little bit out if the clutch still drags and fingers crossed ... it may return to as it was before the oil changes.

R1ffR4ff

22-09-20, 07:25 PM

Certainly no offence taken, only reason for choosing the Smith n Allen was that I wanted to go back to semi synth as opposed to the fully I was using to see if it cured the clutch drag and also the Smith n Allen oil exceeds all requirements needed for this engine, the price was just a bonus.
I probably will drop a little bit out if the clutch still drags and fingers crossed ... it may return to as it was before the oil changes.

Have you checked out my Clutch-Lifter page?

https://cx500.000webhostapp.com/SV650ClutchLifter.html

gadget

22-09-20, 08:01 PM

Have you checked out my Clutch-Lifter page?

https://cx500.000webhostapp.com/SV650ClutchLifter.html

Yes I researched it a while back and found your guide when doing the clean, regrease and adjustment, followed it to the letter and tbh ... it only helped a little. All the clutch associated parts are all in excellent order, no discernable wear and all correctly fitted and lined, I'm really leaning toward the oil level and maybe type as possibly the culprit as the grab only started when I changed the oil.

SV650rules

22-09-20, 08:10 PM

Dave20046

22-09-20, 08:32 PM

WTF is ' v twin oil ' ? How does the oil know what sort of engine it is in ? From what I can gather 'Harley v twin oil' seems to be straightforward mineral oil, which is the bottom of the heap as far as oils are concerned....but maybe it suits the agricultural nature of the Milwaukee tractor factory products....

That's incorrect. The makers know what bike they are designing it for. Harley's own might be mineral (but I wouldn't put that in any of my bikes), V-Twin formula is designed specifically for shared clutches like the SV has, I've used it for 10+years and my SV clutch has done over 50k without issue.

I'm not saying others aren't fine and lots of bikes have a shared wet clutch , but it's seen me right and other forummers have had issues until switching to it.

SV650rules

23-09-20, 08:20 AM

That's incorrect. The makers know what bike they are designing it for. Harley's own might be mineral (but I wouldn't put that in any of my bikes), V-Twin formula is designed specifically for shared clutches like the SV has, I've used it for 10+years and my SV clutch has done over 50k without issue.

I'm not saying others aren't fine and lots of bikes have a shared wet clutch , but it's seen me right and other forummers have had issues until switching to it.

Pretty much every bike except IIRC Ducati have a wet clutch, that is why the JASO MA oil spec was introduced, so saying it is V twin oil because it has a wet clutch ???? The bearing surfaces inside a V twin are no different to any other engine, neither are the gears, and a wet clutch runs cooler, is easier to use ( no sudden grabbing ) is quieter and lasts a lot longer than dry clutch, a small downside is that a wet clutch dirties the oil quicker, making oil and filter changes more frequent - V twin oil 'marketing hyperbole alert'..........

I have used Castrol fully synth in my 2016 AL7 from almost new ( after the run in period ) and not a minutes problem with the clutch, it could be that clutch friction material in earlier SV not suitable for fully synth and V twin oil seems to be more towards mineral end of scale.

https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/mc-garage-video-wet-clutch-vs-dry-clutch/

Dave20046

23-09-20, 09:18 AM

Pretty much every bike except IIRC Ducati have a wet clutch, that is why the JASO MA oil spec was introduced, so saying it is V twin oil because it has a wet clutch ???? The bearing surfaces inside a V twin are no different to any other engine, neither are the gears, and a wet clutch runs cooler, is easier to use ( no sudden grabbing ) is quieter and lasts a lot longer than dry clutch, a small downside is that a wet clutch dirties the oil quicker, making oil and filter changes more frequent - V twin oil 'marketing hyperbole alert'..........

I have used Castrol fully synth in my 2016 AL7 from almost new ( after the run in period ) and not a minutes problem with the clutch, it could be that clutch friction material in earlier SV not suitable for fully synth and V twin oil seems to be more towards mineral end of scale.

https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/mc-garage-video-wet-clutch-vs-dry-clutch/

V-Twin's tend to be torquey and don't rev as high, the interaction with the clutch is a little different from other bikes. V-twin specific oil is the same price as other oils, if I compare the 10w40 dx-4 and 10w-40 v-twin specification sheets (neither mineral) the specifications are different. So I don't believe it's marketing hype. I put PD oil in my turbo diesel (car) and I used to put gearbox oil in my motorcycle gearboxes, I don't think 'oil is simply oil' and it should guess what job or engine it's supposed to be, by the same logic why not put car oil in your bike (which I know you know because you've mentioned jaso)

Re. wet clutch, in the SV you are picking an oil that is good for the engine AND the clutch AND the gearbox, it's doing 3 different jobs. (Since you brought them up Harley Davidsons have oil for the engine and for the drive, there's probably a little more room for error there).

Anyway keen not to digress this into an oil thread as there are enough forums plagued with those - just passing on advice that's worked for me and others to a member with that very issue, but to clarify I am definitely not recommending mineral oil (and I did even say semi+ synth)

CheGuevara

24-09-20, 01:03 PM

Found a photo of my old SV with the Nitron reservoir on it..

So Nitron have come back and the two-part reservoir mount they offer (a generic clamp for the reservoir body, and then a presumably bike specific plate to mount to the passenger peg mounts) comes to about £100, which seems a little bit steep to me.

I think if I do decide to mount it in that position I'll just buy a length of flat bar Al and use a couple of p-clamps as suggested earlier.

thedrewski86

24-09-20, 01:42 PM

So Nitron have come back and the two-part reservoir mount they offer (a generic clamp for the reservoir body, and then a presumably bike specific plate to mount to the passenger peg mounts) comes to about £100, which seems a little bit steep to me.

I think if I do decide to mount it in that position I'll just buy a length of flat bar Al and use a couple of p-clamps as suggested earlier.

Che,
I did this several years ago when I upgraded the rear shock on my old cbr F2. A little aluminum bar stock and hose clamps are perfect, and a definite savings over dropping £100.

DamoK4

29-09-20, 11:45 AM

Just had a gsxr1 k5 shock fit at the garage after doing the front springs and oil last month myself. They had to cut the battery box and put a smaller same spec battery in for it to fit properly but it’s a different bike now

Adam Ef

29-09-20, 08:04 PM

svenrico

29-09-20, 10:17 PM

Plugged a puncture with a Stop'n'Go mushroom to get me home (via a garage to top up the small amount of air I managed to get into it after half an hour with a hand pump as my CO2 inflater failed). Three inch screw buried in rear tyre riding though Gloucester. Looks like I need a new rear tyre sooner than planned. Grrrr.
I understood a permanent repair might be possible to a tyre repaired with a temporary mushroom type plug ,according to AA man who repaired my rear tyre after removing a screw embedded in it. In my case there was also damage to the sidewall so a new tyre was required.

Adam Ef

30-09-20, 06:37 AM

I've got the kit to do that. Not sure it's worth it though when I needed a new tyre within a few months anyway. Might just get on with the change to the next set. It's not quite in the budget yet though.

SVSte

03-10-20, 04:44 PM

Just fitted the Suzuki Visor Screen, a lot better than the Givi one, for the looks and use less pressure round my head on the motorway.

Seeker

03-10-20, 05:51 PM

Just fitted the Suzuki Visor Screen, a lot better than the Givi one, for the looks and use less pressure round my head on the motorway.

Interesting. I found exactly the opposite - for me, the Suzuki meter visor did nothing but look pretty but the Givi (A3111) gives me good wind protection. I'm guessing height is what has made our conflicting results.

I had bought the white one but it didn't even match the white on the tank. I suppose with a name like "meter visor" it's telling you what it does. When I bought it the price was £125 which I thought was pricey for such a small screen, I see now it is even more expensive at £180.

svenrico

04-10-20, 12:14 PM

'When I bought it the price was £125 which I thought was pricey for such a small screen, I see now it is even more expensive at £180.'
Ridiculous price

Bike27

05-10-20, 09:39 AM

Just fitted the Suzuki Visor Screen, a lot better than the Givi one, for the looks and use less pressure round my head on the motorway.

No experience of any other screens but agree the Suzuki screen looks great, I think it really lifts the styling, I think my bike looks a bit odd / unfinished without it. Don't really have an opinion on whether it serves any actual functional purpose, but then I've only taken the SV on the Motorway once.

'When I bought it the price was £125 which I thought was pricey for such a small screen, I see now it is even more expensive at £180.'.Ridiculous price

I agree, the price is ridiculous, but IMHO almost worth it, if styling is an important consideration (very subjective I know). Fortunately I am in the happy position of both loving the screen and not having had to pay for it, as it came already attached to my 1600 mile one owner SV upon purchase last year

Here's my bike with:

https://i.imgur.com/RQFG2Cw.jpg

and without:

https://i.imgur.com/lKMtwpW.jpg?1

Dave20046

05-10-20, 07:30 PM

Notable improvement , that.

gadget

06-10-20, 07:25 PM

Just drowned my sv in acf50 in prep for storm 'bike wrecker' and it's mates! Can't believe I nearly sold it ... I've just come back from a few days away, uncovered the sv and ... went all soppy again, really like this bike, I really don't know what I was thinking looking at an gs1000, the 650s is pretty much perfect for me.
So decided to prep it for some occasional winter use and enjoy it more.

gadget

07-10-20, 02:42 PM

Today was a decent day (weather wise) to mess with the curvy 'S', I fitted an in-line fuel filter, started to fabricate some nice shiney 6mm thick alloy heel plates (just bling really), and fitted my digital voltmeter I purchased from Ebay. I had to fab a bracket to mount to the bar that holds the clocks n fairing on, literally just in front of the ignition switch.
The guage is digital, shows readings in either volts or a percentage of battery charge and can be totally switched off when you like, which is handy as it's directly connected to the battery and so prevents battery drain. All in all ... a good and productive day.

SV650rules

07-10-20, 02:50 PM

@ gadget I found out from experience that connecting voltmeter direct to battery is the only way of getting an accurate reading - I tried connecting across side light so it came on and off with ignition but found it read anything up to 0.5 volts low due to volt drops in wiring, but across battery reads the same as my fairly expensive digital multimeter. I did put a 1 amp fuse in line to protect thin cables to meter.

admin

07-10-20, 04:54 PM

The VFR has a weakness for frying its charging system. I suffered a burnt out connector in the spring which I removed and fitted a voltmeter to the dash to monitor things. This showed a regular 14.6v but this went over 15v when I was out with Garynortheast a couple of weeks ago. The cause of the high voltage was the fan kicking in due to the high ambient temperature and slow speeds.

So a new reg/rec now fitted I'm now getting a steady 13.6v. As an experiment I left the bike running to invoke the fan, voltage dropped to 13.3. Not cheap to replace but safer than frying my ECU.

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