What have you tinkered with today?

[admin]

Do you know what replacement you went for? I'm tempted to look for another RM Stator one if I need to swap it out, but they're expensive. If there's something as good for less then I'd opt for that instead.


+ What mileage did you have on yours when you did it John?This one. https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/honda/vfr_800_a6_%28abs_model%29/06/picture/generator_-_stator

I'm not sure it's the best but I was just being lazy and it was convenient to order from Wemoto.

Mileage was around 38k. Mine looked more burnt than yours.

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

[gt alex]

Had no time or money to buy shield gas lately so today just did some pounding on the tank blending to bar dents into the extended shape.

[DJ123]

Fixed the centre stand issue as one of the bolts always comes loose. However you can't have it tight otherwise you restrict the movement. So i decided to drill a hole through the bolt/nut and R-clip it. So the bolt is always tight enough, but the R clip means it'll never come undone (i'd have used a split pin if i had one).

Also, i moved the Sat Nav (mount) back to where it was as the new position was not to my liking.

Now on to try and solve my luggage issue.

[svenrico]

Fixed the centre stand issue as one of the bolts always comes loose. However you can't have it tight otherwise you restrict the movement. So i decided to drill a hole through the bolt/nut and R-clip it. So the bolt is always tight enough, but the R clip means it'll never come undone (i'd have used a split pin if i had one).

Also, i moved the Sat Nav (mount) back to where it was as the new position was not to my liking.

Now on to try and solve my luggage issue.
I find the absence of a centre stand on the SV650A a nuisance. Why can't they design bikes to allow one to be incorporated ?! :mad:

[Adam Ef]

Space, weight , cost, aesthetics.


Abba stand with swingarm kit left installed on the bike works great on the SV.


Any bike I've had with a centre stand usually gets left on the side stand (with a chock of wood under the kickstand if it's needed to be more upright for space in the garage) unless working on it.

[redtrummy]

The Cub came with both back in 67. True to fine British engineering the side stand bent with the weight of the bike. I did have a replacement fabricated which has been ok but its the centre stand every time for me.. Maybe its because I belong to a previous era

[DJ123]

I find the absence of a centre stand on the SV650A a nuisance. Why can't they design bikes to allow one to be incorporated ?! :mad:

I guess as it is seen as a Sports Bike, and they don't generally have one fitted.

[svenrico]

Space, weight , cost, aesthetics.
Abba stand with swingarm kit left installed on the bike works great on the SV.
Any bike I've had with a centre stand usually gets left on the side stand (with a chock of wood under the kickstand if it's needed to be more upright for space in the garage) unless working on it.
I can put up with cost (even as an aftermarket item if brackets to fix to are there ),weight (not that great )aesthetics ( centre stands look ok to me )
Obviously the exhaust gets in the way on the SV650A.
My SV650A requires plastic panel removing each side of bike to fit Abba swingarm kit ,and panels aren't suitable to be left off. How do you leave Abba kit in place anyway, the brass fittings would just drop out ?! :confused:
What I am saying is I would prefer exhausts to be designed so they allowed brackets to be incorporated for centre stand fitting.

[gadget]

Managed to buy some 3mm nitrile cord from the 'bay' and cut the exact length to fit into the recess of my curvy plastic clutch cover, used Granville black gasket goo to fill the groove then press in the nitrile cord, waited 24hours to cure then carefully laid it onto a sheet of sandpaper and sanded off enough of the cord to create a small 'flat' so it creates a slightly bigger foot print when tightened down. Before fitting.. a smear of the goo was put all round the new cord and then evenly tightened down and torqued up.
There was approximately 0.5 mm of gasket cord protruding above the mounting face of the cover so it could be tightened down sufficiently enough to seal and not put undue strain on the bolt holes in the cover so not creating a warp, Started it up .. watched it like a hawk and ... so far .. no leaks.
The factory original o ring flops around in the covers groove and is far to thin imo to do it's job whereas the groove it fits in is approximately 3.2mm hence the choice of 3mm nitrile cord, it's a nice snug fit so 'should' stand the test of time.
I'll report back with my findings after a few more miles.

[DJ123]

I can put up with cost (even as an aftermarket item if brackets to fix to are there ),weight (not that great )aesthetics ( centre stands look ok to me )
Obviously the exhaust gets in the way on the SV650A.
My SV650A requires plastic panel removing each side of bike to fit Abba swingarm kit ,and panels aren't suitable to be left off. How do you leave Abba kit in place anyway, the brass fittings would just drop out ?! :confused:
What I am saying is I would prefer exhausts to be designed so they allowed brackets to be incorporated for centre stand fitting.

Adam mentioned the swingarm kit, so would be (i assume) Bobbins/cotton reels you leave in. Not the frame lifters.

[Adam Ef]

IHow do you leave Abba kit in place anyway, the brass fittings would just drop out ?!


Use the swingarm kit which bolts in place of one of each of the footpeg bolts and can stay there.

[svenrico]

Use the swingarm kit which bolts in place of one of each of the footpeg bolts and can stay there.

Thanks ,wasn't aware of that, my Abba kit fittings push into the swingarm pivot holes. Will look into that for my 2020 SV650A.:thumright:

[svenrico]

Adam mentioned the swingarm kit, so would be (i assume) Bobbins/cotton reels you leave in. Not the frame lifters.
Apparently some Abba fittings can be fixed to rear footpeg brackets rather than into swingarm pivot points like I have.
ps sorry, obviously the front not rear footrest brackets.

[svenrico]

Have obviously been here before but forgotten the reply below that I received previously from Abba.
In most cases we would recommend that the SARK is fitted to the frame lug
itself & not the outside of the hanger (although this is possible in some
cases) obviously if the hanger is removed they cannot be left this way.

The SARK fittings also stick out so may hinder foot movement when riding.

For routine use we would always recommend using the swing-arm adapter kit on
the bike & not the swing-arm removal kit. The swing-arm removal kit is
primarily for just that job - removing the swing-arm.

Those are our recommendations, obviously your are free to follow them or not
at your own discretion/risk.

Hope this helps.

Best regards


abba Motorcycle Equipment UK Ltd
29 Cutlers Road
South Woodham Ferrers
Essex
CM3 5WA

Tel: 01245 322331 (Sales: Option 1) (Technical: Option 2)
Email: info@abbastands.co.uk
Web: www.abbastands.co.uk

[svenrico]

Use the swingarm kit which bolts in place of one of each of the footpeg bolts and can stay there.

Please see my previous correspondence with Abba which I had obviously forgotten. Do you leave the fittings fixed to the footrest brackets or remove the footpeg brackets and fix to the frame lugs as Abba suggest. Forgive me if we have been through this before.
ps sorry, they obviously have to fix to the front footrest hanger if the Abba fittings stay in place.

[Adam Ef]

I left mine permanently in place of one of the footpeg bolts with the footpegs on. I didn't find they got in the way at all.

[yokohama]

I did the same as Adam on my SV. Removed one of the footpeg bolts, replaced it with a swingarm removal kit fitting and just left it in. They are not very big and didn't bother me at all.

[svenrico]

I left mine permanently in place of one of the footpeg bolts with the footpegs on. I didn't find they got in the way at all.

Yes, thanks. I think we might have had this conversation before :)( I am still on a Honda cb650 forum from when I had my last bike and I think I sometimes get mixed up about which forum I have commented on , or that's my excuse anyway, but more likely just old age !!!)
Anyway I am going to order the ABBA swingarm removal kit, it sounds more like a handy way of raising the rear end for a quick clean of the wheel rims or whatever. I could still use the swingarm pivot points fittings when the bike is laid up in the garage for a longer period in winter.

[yokohama]

It might be worth waiting until black Friday. There's a chance of a discount with maybe free delivery.

[svenrico]

It might be worth waiting until black Friday. There's a chance of a discount with maybe free delivery.

:thumbsup:

[Bibio]

the new SV might have a problem with height e.g. not enough clearance when the bike is on the ABBA stand using the SARK. its still a better option then having to remove the plastic trim to get at the swingarm axle.

my SARK has been permanently on my bike for 10 years and never had a problem. well not true as it has rusted.

[Seeker]

There's only 4 bolts (2 per side) to remove the trim to allow the stand to fit on the Gen3 and they are easily accessible, it only takes a couple of minutes at most. Are you in a hurry? :)

I use the Abbastand when I'm doing a full chain clean, but for a quick oiling I use a roller bracket that allows the rear wheel to be spun.

[svenrico]

the new SV might have a problem with height e.g. not enough clearance when the bike is on the ABBA stand using the SARK. its still a better option then having to remove the plastic trim to get at the swingarm axle.

my SARK has been permanently on my bike for 10 years and never had a problem. well not true as it has rusted.
Abba didn't mention any problem with height and the SARK on the new model SV650A.

[svenrico]

There's only 4 bolts (2 per side) to remove the trim to allow the stand to fit on the Gen3 and they are easily accessible, it only takes a couple of minutes at most. Are you in a hurry? :)

I use the Abbastand when I'm doing a full chain clean, but for a quick oiling I use a roller bracket that allows the rear wheel to be spun.
It takes more than a couple of minutes to remove and then replace the plastic panels ! :) You have to make sure the cables aren't trapped when refitting the left panel and I also have Scottoiler tubing routed behind that panel that hasn't to be squashed. Not a massive job obviously ,but enough of a faff to put me off using the stand without a second thought as I would a centre stand.

[DJ123]

not Bike related, but put the Winter tyres on the Car today as the temperatures are now dropping.

[svenrico]

not Bike related, but put the Winter tyres on the Car today as the temperatures are now dropping.
What sort of tyres do you put on for winter ? I just have the same tyres on all year round.

[SV650rules]

What sort of tyres do you put on for winter ? I just have the same tyres on all year round.


Swapped Civic summers and Alloys for Nokian winters on steel rims a few weeks ago, will do her indoors Jazz tomorrow. Winter is hard on alloys and if it does snow winter tyres are just totally amazing.. A 2 wheel drive Ford Kuga with winters on got almost to top of Tamworth snowdome ski slope, the 4 wheel drive with summer tyres went forward 2 metres and then slid back 5 metres - with winters on it got right to the top. It is not just about moving it is about stopping as well.

[SV650rules]

I left mine permanently in place of one of the footpeg bolts with the footpegs on. I didn't find they got in the way at all.


Same here, the swingarm removal bobbins on my AL7 have been on 3 years now, leave them there all the time, it is actually easier to get the bike on the stand with bobbins fitted... Also use front lift arm and one of these instead of the silly strap they supply with the kit. Fully screw it out and hook over the round bar on front lift stand and then fit other end over the 8mm allen caphead screwed into boss on underside of swingarm - to raise front of bike just screw the turnbuckle .... easy peasy




https://abbastands.co.uk/product-detail.asp?pid=21


https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-zinc-plated-turnbuckle-8mm/8724V?kpid=8724V&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1244072&ds_kid=92700031521308459&msclkid=71d8dae79c6d11cbc4e9bb7c7e2169bc&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=MPX_UK_SHP_MAN_S_ALL_Security%20%26%2 0Ironmongery&utm_term=4584482452682588&utm_content=S%20-%20Ironmongery&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=71d8dae79c6d11cbc4e9bb7c7e2169bc&gclsrc=3p.ds#product_additional_details_container


.

[svenrico]

Swapped Civic summers and Alloys for Nokian winters on steel rims a few weeks ago, will do her indoors Jazz tomorrow. Winter is hard on alloys and if it does snow winter tyres are just totally amazing.. A 2 wheel drive Ford Kuga with winters on got almost to top of Tamworth snowdome ski slope, the 4 wheel drive with summer tyres went forward 2 metres and then slid back 5 metres - with winters on it got right to the top. It is not just about moving it is about stopping as well.
My car's wheel rims are steel anyway. As I am retired I hope I can avoid driving in snow anyway nowadays ,so tyres will have to do. I wonder how many people do change their tyres for winter ,I shouldn't think it is that common. (obviously not a bad idea if you do a lot of mileage in winter in all conditions though )

[SV650rules]

My car's wheel rims are steel anyway. As I am retired I hope I can avoid driving in snow anyway nowadays ,so tyres will have to do. I wonder how many people do change their tyres for winter ,I shouldn't think it is that common. (obviously not a bad idea if you do a lot of mileage in winter in all conditions though )


With many cars fitted with pressure sensors in the wheels now to monitor tyre pressure and the expense and faff of getting extras sensors and having them reprogrammed every year many people now just fit Cross Climate tyres, which are not as good in summer as summer tyres and not as good in winter as winter tyres, but a compromise. Means they keep same wheels and tyres on all year round.

[DJ123]

What sort of tyres do you put on for winter ? I just have the same tyres on all year round.

I have set of winter (steel wheels) tyres, with Continental WinterContacts on them. They sit in the garage 9 months of the year and go on when the temps stay consistently in the lower single digits.

They transform the way the car drives in the cold, wet, and snowy conditions. Being a BMW Estate, the 50/50 weight distribution is great for handling, but no so much for traction in Wintery conditions. The difference is remarkable vs summer tyres in the same conditions.

[DJ123]

Swapped Civic summers and Alloys for Nokian winters on steel rims a few weeks ago, will do her indoors Jazz tomorrow. Winter is hard on alloys and if it does snow winter tyres are just totally amazing.. A 2 wheel drive Ford Kuga with winters on got almost to top of Tamworth snowdome ski slope, the 4 wheel drive with summer tyres went forward 2 metres and then slid back 5 metres - with winters on it got right to the top. It is not just about moving it is about stopping as well.

Hit the nail on the head there. It's the controlling of the car on the move and stopping which is the key.

[Bibio]

my old Merc gAy class is the only car that has ever been parked up when it snows heavy as its too low to the ground. got friends that take me shopping when it does snow heavy :-)

[redtrummy]

Could never get my head around this, for the greater part of my driving career there were tyres, just tyres now we have s/w tyres - what changed? Plus years ago winters were colder when grip would have been appreciated!
Bibio- sister had a C class, absolutely hopeless when it snowed - worked like a snowplough with winter tyres on -now gone. (They drove to the Alps a fair bit to ski, totally impracticable.

[DJ123]

Technology changed, as did people's living & working habits.

Winter tyres probably existed, but were in their infancy and not widely known in the UK. They've been used in North America, Europe & Scandinavia for many years.

[CheGuevara]

Old video but a good example of the capability of winter tyres: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STaximkaQxo


Also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atayHQYqA3g (check the braking comparison)



I used to put winter tyres (mounted on a second set of cheap wheels) on my wife's car from about mid-Nov (temps depending) and as mentioned earlier the difference in grip (braking and cornering as well) is significant once the temps are in single digits or lower.



If you own the car for a while it can make economic sense as well, as you're saving wear and tear on your summer tyres (which can take a beating over winter).



We've no space to store an extra set of wheels/tyres currently, so now using Conti AllSeason Contacts - a compromise over proper winter tyres, but if you can only manage a single set of tyres they're brilliant in wet and cold weather -especially through standing water.

[svenrico]

Could never get my head around this, for the greater part of my driving career there were tyres, just tyres now we have s/w tyres - what changed? Plus years ago winters were colder when grip would have been appreciated!


Yes, same here, I have always had the same tyres on all year round and have never been offered any special tyres for winter use by tyre fitters ,or ever known anybody who changed their tyres in winter. If I was commuting 80 miles a day in all weathers nowadays like I did for several years in the 80's I think I might have thought about changing tyres for winter though !

[Bibio]

a long time ago i used to have mud and snow tyres on the car and caravan but you were restricted to 70mph or something like that. they were great for getting out muddy fields.

[redtrummy]

Stripped down and cleaned the carb on the Cub yesterday. Was going to refit it today but its too darn cold in the garage -will have to wait until it gets a bit warmer.

[SV650rules]

Stripped down and cleaned the carb on the Cub yesterday. Was going to refit it today but its too darn cold in the garage -will have to wait until it gets a bit warmer.


Yeah, messing with pieces of metal in cold conditions just sucks the heat out of fingers, and you can't really wear gloves and do fiddly stuff. I am waiting to spray paint some stuff but no when ambient in garage is about 2 degC

[SV650rules]

a long time ago i used to have mud and snow tyres on the car and caravan but you were restricted to 70mph or something like that. they were great for getting out muddy fields.


Modern M&S tyres don't have the huge tread pattern like something the army would use ( all terrain tyres ) - they are no noisier than summer tyres. AFAIK speed ratings for modern winter tyres are pretty much the same as summers.

[Adam Ef]

Hooked up the auxialliary lights on the DRZ. Bit of a faff running all wiring and soldering in from a switched live to the relay, then trying to fit it all tucked away in limited space. Got a feeling they're going to be too bright though and they have a flashing setting I wasn't aware of every third time they're turned on. Bit odd and not something I wanted, but they're fitted now.

[garynortheast]

Hooked up the auxialliary lights on the DRZ. Bit of a faff running all wiring and soldering in from a switched live to the relay, then trying to fit it all tucked away in limited space. Got a feeling they're going to be too bright though and they have a flashing setting I wasn't aware of every third time they're turned on. Bit odd and not something I wanted, but they're fitted now.

Sounds like it could be entertaining Adam, careering down wet muddy lanes in the dark with a strobe light by which to see your way! :D

[Adam Ef]

Sounds like it could be entertaining Adam, careering down wet muddy lanes in the dark with a strobe light by which to see your way! :D


Yep. Next job is to fit the soundsystem so I can blare out hectic techno to go with the lighting :-)

[garynortheast]

Yep. Next job is to fit the soundsystem so I can blare out hectic techno to go with the lighting :-)

:smt046 :smt046

[DJ123]

Fitted a ground anchor today. Got a good deal on a squires one & decent chain lock for the bike in the Garage.

[Craig380]

Did a brake fluid flush on my Gen 3. Despite being nearly three years old, the old fluid still tested OK for moisture content, but it's a good job to do while the bike's not in regular use.

[Adam Ef]

Struggling with a stuck link pipe. Once it's off I'll be struggling with a stuck lambda sensor.

[DJ123]

Did a brake fluid flush on my Gen 3. Despite being nearly three years old, the old fluid still tested OK for moisture content, but it's a good job to do while the bike's not in regular use.

i change mine on the Bike & car every 2 years. And generally when i replace the pads (& discs) too.

For the low cost/low effort its well worth it for the improvement in braking performance and feel.

[DJ123]

I installed a tie down point onto the trailer. A nice solid anchor point to lock the bike onto, as well as locking the trailer to the car (when being left).

[Adam Ef]

Struggling with a stuck link pipe. Once it's off I'll be struggling with a stuck lambda sensor.




Link pipe finally off after a lot of struggle. Not so lucky with the lambda sensor though. It snapped off.

[Sir Trev]

Today I have been tinkering with my trusty old Raleigh. After inflating the squidgy tyres yesterday I tried to lube the chain but found the pedals did not want turn. Half the chain links were seized almost solid for some reason. So I paid a visit to Halfords this morning and came back with a new chain and a splitting tool. Amazingly it went on without a hitch and I have a working push iron again. Considering that was the original 22 year old barely ever cleaned chain I can't complain.

[Adam Ef]

Working on my rack for the DRZ. All shaped and tacked and ready to finish up the welds and then spray (when the weather gets warmer!?)




https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51745315632_66993e23b8_c.jpg

[gt alex]

Just finished installing some disc brakes on the front of my wife's fiat 126. I had some fiat x1-9 brakes here in my spares and the original brake were so bad I felt I had to do it. I cleaned most of the parts in a electrolysis tub powered by a battery charger, it took 2 days.

[Craig380]

Did a brake fluid flush on my Gen 3. Despite being nearly three years old, the old fluid still tested OK for moisture content, but it's a good job to do while the bike's not in regular use.

After a thorough shakedown ride yesterday, I can confirm that bleeding Gen 3 brakes with ABS is just as quick and easy as doing non-ABS brakes. No special tools required.

I did run 5 or 6 master-cylinders full of new fluid through because of the extra ABS plumbing but other than that, just the usual bottle / clear tube method.

[gadget]

Just finished the conversion from curvy 'S' to ABM superbike bars, had to cast some mirror spacers from glass fibre for clearance of levers, inch and a half wider and angled slightly upwards, very happy with my work.. looks factory. Top yoke was drilled for 3 inch custom made alloy risers, bottom of top yoke was filled with carbon fibre & resin for strength. Screen 'ears' were trimmed and edges re-polished, original brake reservoir mount is fitted to bars via an alloy mirror mount. Original brake line layout kept but custom made blue lines fitted to splitter and reservoir. Fairing obviously kept in place. DR350 clutch cable fitted, Just sitting on the bike gives the impression it's going to be soooo comfortable. Just have to bleed the brakes now and take it for a shakedown run. Happy days. Also fitted a clear rear light lense from a tl1000 scored from e'bay for £8... bargain! Just bought some red led stop/tail light bulbs. YAll in all ... very happy with my progress.

[Bibio]

well done to gadget. best thing i done to my sv was superbike bar conversion.

[gadget]

well done to gadget. best thing i done to my sv was superbike bar conversion.

Totally agree, wish I'd done it 2 years ago! Bled the brakes this morning, fired her up and rode to work. Couldn't believe the transformation in ride comfort and maneuverability, it's like a completely different bike. Just have to fit a dual USB charger now for satnav n phone for the convenience on long journeys planned ahead.
Incidentally... anyone know size of fuse I'll need for a twin USB charger?

[Nigel T]

Just finished installing some disc brakes on the front of my wife's fiat 126. I had some fiat x1-9 brakes here in my spares and the original brake were so bad I felt I had to do it. I cleaned most of the parts in a electrolysis tub powered by a battery charger, it took 2 days.

Fiat 126? Really? I learnt to drive and did my test in one of those many years ago. It was recycling itself then with rust. Have you rebuilt your 126? Will you post a picture? I know it’s not an SV but it would be good to see it.

[Bibio]

Totally agree, wish I'd done it 2 years ago! Bled the brakes this morning, fired her up and rode to work. Couldn't believe the transformation in ride comfort and maneuverability, it's like a completely different bike. Just have to fit a dual USB charger now for satnav n phone for the convenience on long journeys planned ahead.
Incidentally... anyone know size of fuse I'll need for a twin USB charger?

i would put the usb charger on a "ignition switched" relay.. you can use something like the side light as the trigger for the coil side. just make sure that its the feed side of the sidelight coz if the bulb blows you loose power to the relay. get a fused relay or any inline fuse will do. ooohh and 3 amp is plenty.

[gt alex]

Here's the fiat 126p. They were sold here as a FSM Niki, mine is a Australia only prototype with no roof or doors.
Only 2 were made I bought this one I bought from a wrecker yard about 15years ago and I just found out the other one has just been found after storage since 2009. I will post a picture soon

[gt alex]

I have reached my attachment limit how do remove some from memory.
I would appreciate some advice thanks

[Bibio]

you need to use a hosting site like https://postimages.org/

[svenrico]

you need to use a hosting site like https://postimages.org/

How does this then transfer an image to this site if we can't just attach an image from our computer ?!
ps yes I am a Luddite.

[DJ123]

How does this then transfer an image to this site if we can't just attach an image from our computer ?!
ps yes I am a Luddite.

reply; go advanced

At the top you see a yellow box with a mountain(?) inside. Click that and paste in the URL to the picture you uploaded.

Submit reply/preview post and you'll see the picture links in

[svenrico]

reply; go advanced

At the top you see a yellow box with a mountain(?) inside. Click that and paste in the URL to the picture you uploaded.

Submit reply/preview post and you'll see the picture links in

But if I am trying to post a photo I took it won't have a URL will it ?

[DJ123]

But if I am trying to post a photo I took it won't have a URL will it ?

No, you have to upload it to a sharing site, such as the one Bib's shared.

[gadget]

i would put the usb charger on a "ignition switched" relay.. you can use something like the side light as the trigger for the coil side. just make sure that its the feed side of the sidelight coz if the bulb blows you loose power to the relay. get a fused relay or any inline fuse will do. ooohh and 3 amp is plenty.

Top man, many thanks for the info. Having said that.. I've also got the option of using a dedicated motorcycle cigarette style charger I've had forever! My current satnav uses this type and I can use one of those USB plug in things if I need to charge then phone!!? What would be a suitable fuse rating for a cigarette style charger?

[Bibio]

look at how many amps the charger puts out, that might give you a clue. tbh i personally would not bother with a fuse.

[Bibio]

But if I am trying to post a photo I took it won't have a URL will it ?

ok i'll try my best to explain with some pretty pictures

go to https://postimages.org/

then choose your image size:

https://i.postimg.cc/CMjdSP8Q/Image1.jpg

press the choose image button:

https://i.postimg.cc/Lsc6ML8S/Image2.jpg

browse to where your image/pic is on your computer:

https://i.postimg.cc/kMFMkV3r/Image3.jpg

click on the image/pic then press the open button, your image will start to upload:

https://i.postimg.cc/hjRgYn2P/Image4.jpg

once uploaded choose the "direct Link:" icon on the right hand side. this will copy the link to your clipboard:

https://i.postimg.cc/Y9xcyW4b/Image5.jpg

go to the thread on here that you want to post the picture in and press the box with the mountain in:

https://i.postimg.cc/9Q9nn7KZ/Image6.jpg

a pop up window will appear, right click in the box and choose paste from the drop down menu, then click ok:

https://i.postimg.cc/ZYDsYHh6/Image7.jpg

if all has gone well you should have the postimage direct link pasted between pastedlink[IMG], if you do then press reply.

[IMG]https://i.postimg.cc/76t96Hjq/Image9.jpg

top tip. when writing a reply you do all the above where you want the image to be like i have done above. good luck and if you have any questions just ask.

[gt alex]

https://scontent.fbne3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/269476719_460846052322785_1917462337743633136_n.jp g?_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=e55hF2MaEPQAX8_nQEv&_nc_ht=scontent.fbne3-1.fna&oh=00_AT8VrujE8WOQUEYrmpoeRqbaSfHNPUoQ2sgIsGqbvHyy zg&oe=61C5572D

[Craig380]

That's very cool.

[Bibio]

very cool indeed :-)

[svenrico]

Bibio , thanks for that info , will give it a go.

[DJ123]

Between yesterday & today;

Replaced headlight Bulb & rear brake pads

Also washed/cleaned all my Kit too. Ready for riding again in the New Year.

[CheGuevara]

Installed Xmas bling. I still need to do the wiring for both levers, but want to get some OE-style connectors.



https://i.imgur.com/wCR6wwj.jpg



https://i.imgur.com/sGZXvg2.jpg





Motul RBF600 at approx 18months (in the glass) vs fresh (in the reservoir). That's very few road miles and a couple of track days (slow group).


https://i.imgur.com/F3jruOm.jpg

[DJ123]

New Stator fitted to the bike. Seeing as its had its electrical gremlins the past year, it's the only part not yet replaced (although always tested as good).
With it being winter/crappy weather it's the best time to strip it down and get it done.

[SV650rules]

New Stator fitted to the bike. Seeing as its had its electrical gremlins the past year, it's the only part not yet replaced (although always tested as good).
With it being winter/crappy weather it's the best time to strip it down and get it done.




A 'series' type R/R will give the new stator an easier life, instead of demanding full power from the stator all the time and shunting unwanted power to earth ( hence the name 'shunt' which is electric speak for 'parallel' ). The series ( electric speak for 'in the same line as' ) only takes from stator what is needed, like a light dimmer would. Just fitting an electrex series RR to my AL7 to replace the mosfet OEM Shindingen one reduced heatsink temp from 75 degC to about 40degC, (temp from temperature probe on same day at same ambient temp). It would have reduced stator winding temperature as well, although I had no way of measuring that easily. The electrex unit also rock solid on output voltage across rev range ( I have a digital meter on the handlebars ) between 14.3 and 14.4 volts - as Sid Larkin would say 'Perfick'

[DJ123]

That's my next purchase, when/if this RR goes and the one i have on the shelf too. Hopefully my

[DJ123]

No tinkering as such today, but a test ride after the new Stator was fitted.

So far the good news is the voltage appears to be stable and the bike running well. Although it wasn't a long ride today (didn't want to venture too far, just in case) it was a successful first test. The next ride will be longer with some more electrical draw, to test if it is still able to hold a continuous output.

[CheGuevara]

Removed my forks and boxed them up... Ready to send to Maxton for the full SD25 cartridge treatment. :riding:

Recently (and finally) decided to not go the GSXR route this time, and spend the £ on improving what's already there. Not to say I'll never do it in the future, but this made sense to me for now, as I've already got two sets of SV wheels/brakes.

I may have a set of very lightly used K-tech 10.0 N/mm linear springs available soon if anyone is keen (also have the stock springs -low mileage).

[Bibio]

superb choice. those cartridges will out perform all standard gsxr forks.

[svenrico]

Not so much tinkered with much but ridden a few times this week. Not really advisable. After cleaning and waxoyling where appropriate ,ride out resulted in covering of salty road spray, requiring cleaning again. Ride in strong winds yesterday not good and a bit 'unsettling'. Riding into sun low in sky at this time of year needs avoiding as well .
Roll on spring .

[CheGuevara]

Installed these from projection-components (just the disks so far - will look at the steering bearings tomorrow):

https://i.imgur.com/eFuEjLRh.jpg

Digital scale says 357g vs 700g for the well-worn original. I'm happy with them, but will swap out the included bolts as they're a bit nasty (quite sloppy fitting on good Koken and Wiha hex bits), and could probably wouldn't hurt if they were 5mm longer.

Here's one of the included bolts next to a titanium copy of the original (both weigh 9g):

https://i.imgur.com/g7E8ouhh.jpg

[CheGuevara]

Also started disassembling my exhaust the other day, and was surprised to find this:

https://i.imgur.com/rQy32fDb.png

It never occurred to me there might be one in there (I've googled now and it's normal in later pointys of course).

[svenrico]

Installed these from projection-components (just the disks so far - will look at the steering bearings tomorrow):

https://i.imgur.com/eFuEjLRh.jpg

Digital scale says 357g vs 700g for the well-worn original. I'm happy with them, but will swap out the included bolts as they're a bit nasty (quite sloppy fitting on good Koken and Wiha hex bits), and could probably wouldn't hurt if they were 5mm longer.

Here's one of the included bolts next to a titanium copy of the original (both weigh 9g):

https://i.imgur.com/g7E8ouhh.jpg
The bolts are completely different !

[Ruffy]

The bolts are completely different !
I suspect the one on the left is designed for floating disc fittings but the one on the right for rigid discs.

The discs pictured look like rigid type (no bobbins in the fixing holes).

[CheGuevara]

Nah both are solid discs. The stock ones though are thicker have a larger bore (10mm) and are counter-bored which explains the shouldered bolt.The replacement discs are thinner and drilled to the same diameter as the bolt (8mm). If you drilled them out to 10mm and tried to use the shouldered bolt, I think it would bottom out leaving the thinner disc flapping about a bit.

I'm assuming the stock arrangement uses the shouldered bolt for a bit more precision in aligning the disc.

[CheGuevara]

Just to be clear(in case it's it obvious) -these are rear discs - I've got two sets of wheels.

[Ruffy]

Nah both are solid discs. The stock ones though are thicker have a larger bore (10mm) and are counter-bored which explains the shouldered bolt.The replacement discs are thinner and drilled to the same diameter as the bolt (8mm). If you drilled them out to 10mm and tried to use the shouldered bolt, I think it would bottom out leaving the thinner disc flapping about a bit.

I'm assuming the stock arrangement uses the shouldered bolt for a bit more precision in aligning the disc.
Fair do's. Cheers for the clarification. I often get stuff wrong!:|

What you describe also makes sense to me. You definitely don't want loose discs if they're meant to be solid. Maybe you can find an aftermarket replacement bolt that has a small 8mm shoulder to give the best fit?

[Bibio]

if its titanium bolts please use some form of coating on the threads as they tend to weld themselves onto anything.

[SV650rules]

if its titanium bolts please use some form of coating on the threads as they tend to weld themselves onto anything.


Stainless steel threads also like 'galling' ( welding themselves into the hole )

https://www.essentracomponents.com/en-gb/news/product-resources/how-to-prevent-galling-on-stainless-steel-bolts


.

[svenrico]

Stainless steel threads also like 'galling' ( welding themselves into the hole )

https://www.essentracomponents.com/en-gb/news/product-resources/how-to-prevent-galling-on-stainless-steel-bolts


.

Interesting. So would copper grease be a good lubricant to use ?

[CheGuevara]

if its titanium bolts please use some form of coating on the threads as they tend to weld themselves onto anything.

Always do :cool:

[SV650rules]

Interesting. So would copper grease be a good lubricant to use ?


Molybdenum disulphide ( Moly ) is a good one, so molycote, molygrease etc, moly is a fantastic high strength lubricant. I add 2% Liqui-moly to engine oil in bikes with wet clutches ( which is OK according to Liqui-moly instructions ). Copper grease more an anti-corrosion than a lubricant.

https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/Ref_Thread_Galling.html

[Bibio]

do not use a lubricant or copper grease. they are disc bolts so need a thread lock designed for de mounting bolts. Loctite 2259681 Lock ‘n’ Seal is a good one. i personally use a loctite blue stick.

[SV650rules]

do not use a lubricant or copper grease. they are disc bolts so need a thread lock designed for de mounting bolts. Loctite 2259681 Lock ‘n’ Seal is a good one. i personally use a loctite blue stick.


I use a loctite 248 9G blue stick, easy to apply and lasts ages in toolbox and will not spill... One thing is that stainless bolts are not proper hi-tensile because putting carbon into stainless steel is a no-no...



https://www.boat-renovation.com/high-tensile-steel-vs-stainless-steel-bolts/

[svenrico]

Molybdenum disulphide ( Moly ) is a good one, so molycote, molygrease etc, moly is a fantastic high strength lubricant. I add 2% Liqui-moly to engine oil in bikes with wet clutches ( which is OK according to Liqui-moly instructions ). Copper grease more an anti-corrosion than a lubricant.

https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/Ref_Thread_Galling.html
So, apart from bolts that require threadlock like Loctite ,wouldn't copper grease be suitable for stainless steel bolts if it stops corrosion and would therefore prevent the bolts 'welding' ? I am becoming confused :confused:

[Bibio]

So, apart from bolts that require threadlock like Loctite ,wouldn't copper grease be suitable for stainless steel bolts if it stops corrosion and would therefore prevent the bolts 'welding' ? I am becoming confused :confused:

under normal circumstances yes but we are talking disc bolts and any for of lube is a risk of them coming loose. also people tend to use waaaayyyy tooooo much copper grease on things.

[svenrico]

under normal circumstances yes but we are talking disc bolts and any for of lube is a risk of them coming loose. also people tend to use waaaayyyy tooooo much copper grease on things.
I might have strayed from the original post but I was referring to stainless steel bolts generally not brake disc bolts specifically.
But it would seem the only advantage of stainless steel bolts is the exposed heads should not rust (unless it is a s/s bolt and s/s nut situation ) I know from experience we used to isolate stainless steel fixings from mild steel, as in a framework, by placing neoprene washers between the s/s washers on the fixings and the mild steel to avoid corrosion (dissimilar metals ! )