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Old 10-03-10, 03:03 PM   #11
johnnyrod
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Default Re: Cam swap

I took some photos for timing the exhaust cam (your curvy intake cam), PM me if you need them, but I found the instructions from SVrider.com were pretty good, plus you can work it out yourself at the time.
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Old 10-03-10, 04:58 PM   #12
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Default Re: Cam swap

It was a friend of mine who, gave me the idea. He used to race sv650's although was never allowed to do the cam swap mod.
He reckons he can do it no worries (reckon he's a few sv engines apart). Definately let someone else do thing that involve timing chains!
I will of course watch and give instructions lol.

Thanks though.
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Old 10-03-10, 04:59 PM   #13
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Default Re: Cam swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by tstruyk View Post
and Ive got a set of JHS cams I may be looking to unload...
You have PM.
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Old 10-03-10, 07:56 PM   #14
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Default Re: Cam swap

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyrod View Post
I took some photos for timing the exhaust cam (your curvy intake cam), PM me if you need them, but I found the instructions from SVrider.com were pretty good, plus you can work it out yourself at the time.
Have you got a link to the thread please?
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Old 10-03-10, 07:57 PM   #15
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Default Re: Cam swap

http://www.twfracing.com/vbforums/showthread.php?t=58
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Old 10-03-10, 08:06 PM   #16
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Default Re: Cam swap

But how do I ensure that I don't screw the timing up? The existing cams have markers to get them in correctly, I would assume by moving them around I'm not going to have the same markers to work from?
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Old 10-03-10, 08:16 PM   #17
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Default Re: Cam swap

Turn it by hand to start with (plugs out), if it stops for any reason you've got it wrong.

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Old 10-03-10, 08:22 PM   #18
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Default Re: Cam swap

First step is making sure cams are pointing in same direction as ones you took out
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Old 10-03-10, 08:27 PM   #19
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Default Re: Cam swap

Ok so its trial and error to get it lined up, followed by turning the engine to see that nothing stops moving. Cool.
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Old 10-03-10, 08:29 PM   #20
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Default Re: Cam swap

There's a diagram kicking about, I think zadar posted it.

To be sure use degree wheel but that's overkill really. You should be able to eyeball nearest tooth but diagram is way forward.

Turning engine gently to check is still necessary. Problem is if you were maybe 1 tooth out then you could crunch engine at redline because of rod stretch or whatever causing impact.
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