The Cycling Thread

[maviczap]

Matt, I had a Pedal Spanner but it wasn't budging, my old man and I rounded the inside allen key trying to get it off and unfortunately my old man stripped some skin off his fingers.

Talking tools I have £30 left in my Christmas budget so was thinking about getting The Bike hand Shimano tool kit (http://www.wheelies.co.uk/p41164/Bike-Hand-Bicycle-Maintenance-Tool-Kit-Shimano-Fit.aspx?sku=104644&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=AdwordsProductAds&utm_campaign=Adwords&gclid=Cj0KEQiA4eqyBRDUh7Omv9vCtsoBEiQAspfs8gJgL5-qDFGB0nqfIrWcSbu59HneG6w3jv2yjPqgwz0aAkjT8P8HAQ) from the gaffer, but I don't know how much of it I'd use...

If I wasn't going to get the tool kit what would you guys get for £30???

There's a few things in it, you wont use, but for the price its got everything you'd need

[MattCollins]

Today was the first that I've given the fixie a decent run. About 80km out and back on flat roads (https://goo.gl/maps/nrnK6xsGkPU2) spinning 74 gear-inches at 90-120rpm.
I thoroughly enjoyed it, but I bit off too much for the first ride and as a result I'm a little sore. Ultimately I don't want to be riding it that far either... but if I'm on the flat I won't have an excuse not to ride it either. It's main purpose is to improve my pedalling (fixed wheel highlights deficiencies in real time) and that can be done on shorter afternoon rides (https://goo.gl/maps/wGrAoCzharN2).

I'd post a pic, but it's probably not worth it after the last effort.

It's based on this... Mine's silver with a black SRAM group...

http://www.llewellynbikes.com/images/images2011/BicycleFramePagePhotos/BicyclePage/OSCompact_400_267.jpg
Image pilfered from here: http://www.llewellynbikes.com/HTML/LlewellynBicycles.html

[MattCollins]

Speaking of weather... I just got word that it's a 5am start and back by 9am tomorrow with temperatures expected to reach 42C.

[maviczap]

Feck off, its 10 deg here :-)

[carelesschucca]

I'm starting to go off that Mattcollins fella. It's only 4 degree here blowing a gale and very wet. Thankfull I managed to get out on Thursday. dunno what's changed but I'm guessing I need to go searching for a new saddle. Two days later I can still feel the sore bones... It's weird I've been fine with it until now. There's been a whole lot of research done in the last two days.

Still hoping to get out tomorrow despite the derriere.

[MattCollins]

I was saying it was going to be too hot!!! It's actually fairly dangerous.

4C... 10C... that is quite pleasant when working hard. I'd give the gales and rain a miss though.

Dean, before buying a new saddle, try tweaking the angle a bit... about 1mm at a time at the nose.

[maviczap]

Yep, if youve got a spirit level make sure its level or slightly nose down.

Saddles are a very personal thing, one will suit one person, and won't suit another. Im using a Fizik Aliante versus on all my bikes, as I've found it pretty comfortable, not super comfortable, depends which bike im riding, as each bike has its own characteristics.

Some makes have test models available to test at dealers. Dont assume because it has lots of padding it will be super comfortable.

Also do you use chamios cream on your seat pad of your shorts? Makes a difference to soreness, post ride.

Also sudocream helps out post ride too, not kidding either. :p

Matt, agreed 42 would be dangerous, but setting out in mild temps in short sleves and shorts, is better than full winter kit and mudguards :cool:

[pookie]

The best seat I have is a £5 clearance from halfords. I have a max flow gel one and measured my sit bones and it was better than previous seats but still not as good as my favourite. Nice shorts helps a bit too.

I was hoping the gales may help with some KOMs but realistically i'm in hibernation / bike hunting :)

[carelesschucca]

I was wearing winter leggings with a decent gel pad. The seat is really quite soft at the back end but it's never caused issues before, weird it's like changing the pedals has brought on lots of new issues. I had to lift the seat about 10mm and my feet felt way closer together so I've moved the cleats toward the inside of the shoes. reading up on correct seat placement I need to move the saddle back as my knees are way ahead of the pedal axis.

This whole thing is so blooming complicated, but it's enjoyable doing some learning.

what is nice is there are a lot of people advising Fizik seats when I spent about an hour on their website last night playing with their custom seat designs.

[maviczap]

Think I've got a spare Aliante Versus if the Fizik site advises you its suitable for you.

Welcome to try it out on loan Careless

I've also got loads of Sudocream, as my missus bought a load for some unknown reason, as both kids are well beyond needing it for nappy rash

[MattCollins]

Dean, the seat height has changed the angle of your sit bones in relation to the seat. It'll need to go down a hair at the front. Like Mav said, level or slightly down. I'll add that there is level with a spirit and then there is anatomically level. Use the spirit as a guide.

10mm is a big change in seat height btw. The shoes won't have done that... Normally best practice is to only make one small change at a time and ride it a few times before making the next change.

[maviczap]

Wise advice, I had a major problem after swapping bikes in the spring. I only sussed it out, when I found the tip of the saddle on the Ti bike was angled upwards, I hadn't checked after tightening the saddle clamp, although I was also having issues with slipping seat posts , which distracted me.

Try dropping the saddle by 5mm and seeing how you get on.

[MattCollins]

Matt, agreed 42 would be dangerous, but setting out in mild temps in short sleves and shorts, is better than full winter kit and mudguards :cool:

Well... It started in the mid to high 20's and was into the 30's as soon as the sun poked its head over the horizon this morning... solid overcast and no wind too, an awful day... seriously. Most (sane) people stay indoors when it is like this and the roads were surprisingly quiet.
I'm wearing tights and sleeves now remember and with a shaved head a bandanna for skin cancer prevention. Cooling is a bit of a problem. Long cotton tees and bandanna kept wet with sweat and water seems to be my best option.

[maviczap]

Blimey, as soon as its around 17 - 18 deg I'm in shorts, and in France, its factor 30 always.

I had to stop on the Tourmalet and chuck a bottle of cold stream water over my head and body to cool down on my first overseas trip.

Ive got caught out over here before in scocio temperatures, but only because of my stupidly.

[MattCollins]

I think we've all managed to over do it at times. I spent half of my adult life in the tropics and deserts and have a high tolerance... and respect for high temperatures. My GF on the other hand has a middling tolerance and she will not complain... it's up to me to do the complaining. :)

Col du Tourmalet... I think that'd challenge most riders.

More of the same tomorrow breaking with thunderstorms, then mid to high 20's for the rest of the week... much nicer.


PS. Today's ride... https://goo.gl/maps/pjCeqjgPxaz

[carelesschucca]

Dean, the seat height has changed the angle of your sit bones in relation to the seat.

Matt, you were spot on, I dropped the nose of the seat today before going out (Might have moved it slightly too much as I had to push myself back on the seat every so often)

What can I say about the ride (https://goo.gl/maps/9kXGz4R4MbF2) though? Decided to follow Thursdays route again and the roads were a disaster, the big climb was closed half way up due to a landslide, decided to come back down and do the valley route to find the floods got gradually worse, I was up to the crank at one point, so turned back, and the next road I took was closed completely due to flooding. (I really need to take note of signs :)) I still managed 40km in 1:46hr so all in I'm once again a happy boy.

Most of all thanks go to all of you guys, the advice you give to a newbie is invaluable.

[maviczap]

Lol at least you went out and tried, chapeau Dean! Even though you think why am i doing this, there's a great sense of achievement after doing an extreme ride, when other folk are sitting on the sofa and watching tv.

Id only have gone as far as the garage in weather like that :-)

[carelesschucca]

Ah, Mav it was Blooming windy but I only got caught in the rain twice. TBH, there were tons of cyclist out, about 10 of the Falkirk Cycling Club came streaming past me downwind as I was going the other way, at least some of them said hi the rest were FAR TOO IMPORTANT to acknowledge some slow guy not wearing their colours.

[maviczap]

I saw the forecast & if it was as windy as we encountered on the Galibier this year, then that's windy. 4mph whilst riding on a 3% section shows how windy it was :-(

Aye, I don't like the ones who think they are too important to say hi or nod to non club members.

But it's the same with motorcyclists

[pookie]

Its the same down here from the "we're better than you" brigade. Though they are easy to spot as they generally ride in packs and dont like to be left out so wear the same attire. I still say hi to see if I can get a response.

[MattCollins]

Hey Dean, sounds like a great day for a ride! :D Like Mav says, it's the effort that counts.



That division in cycling was one of the first things I noticed getting back into it. When I was a lad (groan) everyone knew everyone at least by sight and did wave... not any more. Some of it is clique politics that I have no interest in. I've also noticed that group ride etiquette is dead...

I have to admit that I'm not feeling the need to wave. If I come up behind someone I'll slow and chat for a bit. If they want to ride with me (not on my wheel) then I'll welcome the company.

The ladies I ride with will give everyone a wave... certain snobby groups though get a raspberry and a wave of the hand backwards from their butts until they play nice. :p It's all a big joke...

[carelesschucca]

Just been informed about this venture.

It's run by Andy who lives in my local town, looks good and I know the area of Mallorca that they are using, it's blooming lovely for cycling.

Www.Veloclubeurope.com

I hope it works out for him and the guys that are doing it. I always liked his no nonsense attitude when he was in the motorbike clothing trade.

[maviczap]

Yes, although its a long time since I went there (and not cycling), the Balearics have everything a cyclist needs.

As for the Alps and France, I'm always up for that :-)

I've bookmarked it for future reference.

[Dipper]

Just been informed about this venture.

It's run by Andy who lives in my local town, looks good and I know the area of Mallorca that they are using, it's blooming lovely for cycling.

Www.Veloclubeurope.com

I hope it works out for him and the guys that are doing it. I always liked his no nonsense attitude when he was in the motorbike clothing trade.

I've been out there the last two years for a week in March/April and will be going again next year ...fantastic start to the year ...fantastic place!

[carelesschucca]

I'm certainly gonna sleep tonight. Finally managed to get the chance to meet up with Martin and get out for a cycle with him instead of just emailing. He just cruised along gabbing to me while I blew hard. But my lord, an evening actually being with an experienced cyclist has helped me with thoughts and riding properly. I've been using too low a gear on hills and even after raising the seat at the weekend I've been riding with too low a saddle. He got me to raise it another 2cm five minutes into the ride. It felt weird for a few minutes then I suddenly felt my legs were working completely differently. We were down to 0c while we were out and it was windy but I was plenty warm enough.

Boy is he mad on bikes though, we came back from the ride and put the bike back in the garage. There are fourteen different bikes hung up in there, wheels in racks and three flying Scotland frames ready for love. he also has his two expensive posh bikes hung up in the space above his stairs.

I've been told I should try the velodrome and at £13 for an hour how can I say no.

[Dipper]

But my lord, an evening actually being with an experienced cyclist has helped me with thoughts and riding properly.

So true, as with all sports there's so much more to it than you first think,
sounds like you are starting to get hooked...

[carelesschucca]

Starting? I should be sleeping but I'm studying Veloviewer and Strava...

I admitted to Martin that at one point if I'd been on my own I'd have taken a breather (he took me up his clubs hillclimb) but because he was there in front of me I just gritted my teeth and kept turning the cogs. I made the climb and we took a breather at the top. he got me to turn round, I was blown away, the view across the whole of Glasgow at night was my reward.

I'm away to shave my legs ;)

[Dipper]

Starting? I should be sleeping but I'm studying Veloviewer and Strava...

I admitted to Martin that at one point if I'd been on my own I'd have taken a breather (he took me up his clubs hillclimb) but because he was there in front of me I just gritted my teeth and kept turning the cogs. I made the climb and we took a breather at the top. he got me to turn round, I was blown away, the view across the whole of Glasgow at night was my reward.

I'm away to shave my legs ;)

Hee hee, riding with others can be huge motivation to carry on where otherwise you may have stopped or taken things easier ...a case of dig in and "shut up legs", it's always surprising what extra you can find.

[maviczap]

Hee hee, riding with others can be huge motivation to carry on where otherwise you may have stopped or taken things easier ...a case of dig in and "shut up legs", it's always surprising what extra you can find.

Yes, i found that out last Thursday week with my mate, boy was i glad when he peeled off to go home.

A huge head f*@k is to have someone sit on your wheel for 29km of a climb, when you know that they are much fitter than you, and should take a turn :smt075

Worserer still is to sit on someones wheel, when they are doing 4 mph into a block headwind up a climb, and saying "All is good". I couldn't find any more that day, luckily i didnt have any energy to kill my mate either.

[MattCollins]

A bit cheeky of your mate... perhaps he was having a worse day than you, just not admitting it.

Speaking of etiquette and riders who don't wave. There's little more annoying than a rider I don't know tucking in two inches off my wheel without at least saying 'hello'.
Surprising how frequently that happens... this morning I caught three riders while grinding up the coast at about 38kph and my greeting barely got a grunt so I kept going. Next thing I'm hearing is the clack, clack, clack of noisy free hubs (Fulcrum?) behind me... "Seriously?" They backed off and I left them behind, but I've had others who felt entitled to be there.

[MattCollins]

Hee hee, riding with others can be huge motivation to carry on where otherwise you may have stopped or taken things easier ...a case of dig in and "shut up legs", it's always surprising what extra you can find.

This^ and it is a fast track to improvement.

[MattCollins]

Hey Guys,

I have a minor grizzle with the ring combinations on the current crop of compact crank sets.
It looks like manufacturers have gone their hardest to reduce the overlap in gears between the upper and lower rings. What I've found is that without cross chaining (ie using 8 of the 11 on each ring - 9 if I absolutely have to) the transition between rings is a bit too close to where I do a good bit of riding including climbing.
The transition is happening at about 28kph (@~90rpm). I'd like to get the chain ring transition out to 34kph or more, just to give myself a bit of room before I must change rings.

For me... The 50T chain ring is best with 12-25 cassette - the important sprockets are 13 to 19 in 1T increments.
With the 34T chain ring I'm not needing lower than the 19, 21 on a grind and most of the time I'm climbing on the 17. The two lowest gears are largely unused (if I did I might as well walk) I can afford to use a 42 ring to increase the overlap, move closer to the 2-3T increment range (I'm double tapping in the 1T increments) when climbing, smooth my gear use and delay the transition particularly on climbs when the road flattens, but not enough to justify getting back on the top ring.

There is one other alternative being considered btw. 46/36 CX rings with an 11-23 cassette. Mentioning that usually gets a blank look and nonsensical "those are cyclocross rings" like there is some magical difference between road and CX rings. Bah!
The top ring is within a hair of what I'd want (and what I've got), but the lower ring although an improvement still comes up a little short at about 31kph. I'd want a 39T lower ring so it is more of the same (although it is only a 3T change instead of 8T)... and a little more than I'd like to spend atm on something that may or may not work.

Too much info? Prob-ab-ly. :p


So the question here is... has anyone here tried mixing and matching rings?

For example:

46T or 50T Shimano top ring with a 39T Shimano lower ring?

50T Shimano top ring with a 42-ish Specialites TA lower ring?

Any combination of Specialites TA rings (both top and bottom - eg 46/39 or 50/42) on a Shimano 10-11spd crank set?

I am aware that the ramps and pins on the Shimano top ring won't be right with the larger lower rings. What I haven't been able to find is good info on the consequences of that mismatch. Mostly it is internet rhetoric with little hard info or real experience behind it, just a bunch of stuff someone read once being regurgitated over and over.
I wouldn't expect it pick up the chain as well as the ideal combination... what I need to know is will it be good enough using for example a Gossamer crankset as the standard... or am I going to experience chain grinding as the chain fails to pick up, chain drops (the bike came with a dog's tooth to prevent drops over the FSA low ring which could be a clue to the quality of those cranks) and jams or hang ups on the shifts and what can be done to avoid the worst of it?

Or... Specialites TA upper and lower rings on 10/11spd cranks... the good, the bad and the ugly?

:D

[carelesschucca]

It's at this point the magic roundabout theme tune starts paying.

I was talking to Mav yesterday about changing up to a 50/34 or 52/36 double from the 50/39/30 triple. But the idea of mix and match scares me.

[maviczap]

Hey Guys,

I have a minor grizzle with the ring combinations on the current crop of compact crank sets.
It looks like manufacturers have gone their hardest to reduce the overlap in gears between the upper and lower rings. What I've found is that without cross chaining (ie using 8 of the 11 on each ring - 9 if I absolutely have to) the transition between rings is a bit too close to where I do a good bit of riding including climbing.
The transition is happening at about 28kph (@~90rpm). I'd like to get the chain ring transition out to 34kph or more, just to give myself a bit of room before I must change rings.

For me... The 50T chain ring is best with 12-25 cassette - the important sprockets are 13 to 19 in 1T increments.
With the 34T chain ring I'm not needing lower than the 19, 21 on a grind and most of the time I'm climbing on the 17. The two lowest gears are largely unused (if I did I might as well walk) I can afford to use a 42 ring to increase the overlap, move closer to the 2-3T increment range (I'm double tapping in the 1T increments) when climbing, smooth my gear use and delay the transition particularly on climbs when the road flattens, but not enough to justify getting back on the top ring.

There is one other alternative being considered btw. 46/36 CX rings with an 11-23 cassette. Mentioning that usually gets a blank look and nonsensical "those are cyclocross rings" like there is some magical difference between road and CX rings. Bah!
The top ring is within a hair of what I'd want (and what I've got), but the lower ring although an improvement still comes up a little short at about 31kph. I'd want a 39T lower ring so it is more of the same (although it is only a 3T change instead of 8T)... and a little more than I'd like to spend atm on something that may or may not work.

Too much info? Prob-ab-ly. :p


So the question here is... has anyone here tried mixing and matching rings?

For example:

46T or 50T Shimano top ring with a 39T Shimano lower ring?

50T Shimano top ring with a 42-ish Specialites TA lower ring?

Any combination of Specialites TA rings (both top and bottom - eg 46/39 or 50/42) on a Shimano 10-11spd crank set?

I am aware that the ramps and pins on the Shimano top ring won't be right with the larger lower rings. What I haven't been able to find is good info on the consequences of that mismatch. Mostly it is internet rhetoric with little hard info or real experience behind it, just a bunch of stuff someone read once being regurgitated over and over.
I wouldn't expect it pick up the chain as well as the ideal combination... what I need to know is will it be good enough using for example a Gossamer crankset as the standard... or am I going to experience chain grinding as the chain fails to pick up, chain drops (the bike came with a dog's tooth to prevent drops over the FSA low ring which could be a clue to the quality of those cranks) and jams or hang ups on the shifts and what can be done to avoid the worst of it?

Or... Specialites TA upper and lower rings on 10/11spd cranks... the good, the bad and the ugly?

:D

Erm no :D

This year I used a 50/33 inner for the Alps, with a 32 -12 at the rear. Previously I'd used 50/34 x 30-12 and a triple 50/39/30 28-12 (I think).

Round here, my favourite is the semi compact 52/36 as I'm in the middle of the cassette, my old legs aren't strong enough for a 53 and 39 is too low. 12/25 cassette for all uses.

46/36 for my gravel bike, with a 28-12 at the back

[MattCollins]

It's at this point the magic roundabout theme tune starts paying.

I was talking to Mav yesterday about changing up to a 50/34 or 52/36 double from the 50/39/30 triple. But the idea of mix and match scares me.

Haha... I hear that. I've been on the magic merry-go-round for a while. Stuff the money, just get yourself a 105 or Ultegra group and a set of Shimano RS11 wheels for the 11spd cassette. Don't forget to duck when the missus aims one at your noggin' for spending money that perhaps you shouldn't.

Once you reckon she's forgiven you for that round of spending... she probably won't btw... splash on a fancy frame. :D

[carelesschucca]

DON'T!!!

I watched this video (http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/reviews/road-bikes/btwin-ultra-720-af) 3 or 4 times last night. The bike sounds good but I So can't get with the colourscheme. I'd want to get shot of the blue somehow.

The Triban could get different wider tyres and I'd use it along the canalised into work. Thus saving me nearly a grand a year, meaning the bike has paid for itself within 12 months... Well that's my thoughts...

TBH the gaffer is great I can spend my own money however I want once I've put my share into the house.

[maviczap]

It's at this point the magic roundabout theme tune starts paying.

I was talking to Mav yesterday about changing up to a 50/34 or 52/36 double from the 50/39/30 triple. But the idea of mix and match scares me.

Apart from 11 speed stuff, you can use lots of combinations of 9 & 10 speed.

I was going to run a 10 speed set up, using a 34-12 cassette, using a 9 speed Deore rear mech, as it works fine with the road sti levers. Ultegra long cage rear mechs can only cope with a 30 tooth cassette, and not that well.

You can run an 11 speed set up, using a 10 speed chainset, but you must use the mechs & sti's. Seeing as the chainset is a major expense of buying a groupset, its quite a saving.

I'm told you can also run a 11 speed cassette on an older 10 speed shimano rear wheel, by using a lockring from a mountain bike groupset. I've yet to test this out, but if it works, it saves having to buy a new rear wheel, as Shimano didn't make their 10 speed wheels compatible with 11 speed :smt076

[maviczap]

DON'T!!!

I watched this video (http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/reviews/road-bikes/btwin-ultra-720-af) 3 or 4 times last night. The bike sounds good but I So can't get with the colourscheme. I'd want to get shot of the blue somehow.

The Triban could get different wider tyres and I'd use it along the canalised into work. Thus saving me nearly a grand a year, meaning the bike has paid for itself within 12 months... Well that's my thoughts...

TBH the gaffer is great I can spend my own money however I want once I've put my share into the house.

Pick me, pick me, for £899 I don't know how they do it

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FBPXSLPULT6800/planet-x-pro-carbon-shimano-ultegra-6800-classic-road-bike?mc_cid=afe6493c83&mc_eid=ee78a86d9b

or

Me

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBPXLDNRDAPEX/planet-x-london-road-sram-apex-bike

[Dipper]

Pick me, pick me, for £899 I don't know how they do it

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FBPXSLPULT6800/planet-x-pro-carbon-shimano-ultegra-6800-classic-road-bike?mc_cid=afe6493c83&mc_eid=ee78a86d9b

or

Me

http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CBPXLDNRDAPEX/planet-x-london-road-sram-apex-bike

Pay those prices and what you get is a nasty cheap carbon frame I hired one of those a couple of years ago ....horrible, good quality aluminium would be better in my opinion.

[carelesschucca]

STOP THIS NOW! :-D

I like the look of both of those. But the Ultegra bike a touch more. It'd be nice to get a mix of the both and have the disc brakes on the Ultegra :-D

Suppose looking nice and riding nice are different.

[Dipper]

STOP THIS NOW! :-D

Teeheehee!

https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road/endurace/2016/endurace-al-6-0.html

or

https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road/endurace/2016/endurace-cf-8-0.html

[maviczap]

Teeheehee!

https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road/endurace/2016/endurace-al-6-0.html

or

https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road/endurace/2016/endurace-cf-8-0.html

:winner: Buy me buy me :D

[carelesschucca]

Still prefer the B'twin Ultra with its Ultegra groupset :-P

I do need to stop it, I've no work and its Christmas party day in the office. I've spent nearly three hours looking at clothing on SportPursuit and bikes and groupsets everywhere else.

[Dipper]

Still prefer the B'twin Ultra with its Ultegra groupset :-P

I do need to stop it, I've no work and its Christmas party day in the office. I've spent nearly three hours looking at clothing on SportPursuit and bikes and groupsets everywhere else.

Not so sure the Ultegra is worth the extra, in my opinion get the best frame and wheels you can for the money. I've put 4000 winter miles on 105 5800, the jockey wheels were replaced with Ultega (£15) ...ceramic rather than steel bush bearings and it's all still all working as slick as a slick thing.

[MattCollins]

DON'T!!!

I watched this video (http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/reviews/road-bikes/btwin-ultra-720-af) 3 or 4 times last night. The bike sounds good but I So can't get with the colourscheme. I'd want to get shot of the blue somehow.

The Triban could get different wider tyres and I'd use it along the canalised into work. Thus saving me nearly a grand a year, meaning the bike has paid for itself within 12 months... Well that's my thoughts...

TBH the gaffer is great I can spend my own money however I want once I've put my share into the house.

There ya go... paid for in a year and sounds like she's a good sport.

Not so sure the Ultegra is worth the extra, in my opinion get the best frame and wheels you can for the money. I've put 4000 winter miles on 105 5800, the jockey wheels were replaced with Ultega (£15) ...ceramic rather than steel bush bearings and it's all still all working as slick as a slick thing.

I'm inclined to agree. As I mentioned a few pages back, I was originally looking for 105 on an ally frame. Had one bike lined up with the full group at a decent price that I'd have been happy with and then this thing grabbed me. Sucker!

My GF likes the good stuff... hers was about 4x the money which is fine by me even if I was paying for it. She gets pretty good use from her bikes while I was just getting back into it. I'm doing about 2000km per month now and if I keep going like this I can justify (to myself) getting something better sometime in the latter half of next year. In the meantime I'm very happy with what I've got.

[carelesschucca]

It's good that you guys aren't label obsessed and give good advice. I know another bike isn't happening for a good while, but it's lovely to look. Now on Ribbles website.

[maviczap]

Ribble Grand Fodo are nice, Luckypants has one, but i like the new top end ones too.

[maviczap]

Not so sure the Ultegra is worth the extra, in my opinion get the best frame and wheels you can for the money. I've put 4000 winter miles on 105 5800, the jockey wheels were replaced with Ultega (£15) ...ceramic rather than steel bush bearings and it's all still all working as slick as a slick thing.

Having ridden 105 5800, its every bit as slick as my Ultegra 6700.

I've got an Ultegra 6800 groupset to fit, which I got for 105 money, so I'll see if its worth it :cool:

[mattSV]

Pay those prices and what you get is a nasty cheap carbon frame I hired one of those a couple of years ago ....horrible, good quality aluminium would be better in my opinion.

What was it about the Planet X that you hated? I have had one for about 6 years or so and never had any problems with the frame...

[Dipper]

What was it about the Planet X that you hated? I have had one for about 6 years or so and never had any problems with the frame...

Apologies, I should be more diplomatic when voicing my opinion.

My experience was hiring one in Majorca for a week a couple of years ago, it was spring and up until then I had been riding my aluminium winter sh1tter, to me it didn't feel much lighter or less harsh and when pushed the front end flexed a little disconcertingly. My summer bike is a Canyon and does feel a great deal better but then it did cost a great deal more. Just one person's opinion though...

[mattSV]

Hey, no worries, no offence taken ��. I think for the money, Planet X offer a great all round package - there are a lot of other great bikes out there, but to get an equivalent carbon frame with similar running gear and finishing set I reckon you are usually looking at paying 30-50% more. I managed to get an SL Pro with full Ultegra on our old C2W scheme - actual cost to me was £14 per month over 3years, with nothing to pay at the end ��. Next round I went for a Boardman FS team Mountain Bike, ordered it the day before the HMRC rules changed so cost me about the same.

Not sure what the weight of your winter sh1tter is but I think my Planet X comes in at about 7.1kg. Feel light as feck compared to the old 531c double butted frame I built up with a mix of Shimano 600 / campag and Mavic open 4cds - proper old school ��

[carelesschucca]

Phhh, when does winter finish?

I got all kitted up to go out, knowing it would be cold I had lots of light layers on, just didn't realise my street would be sheet ice, I nearly fell just walking out the door, so the sensible option was taken, so kit off and back in the house :(

[pookie]

Stick to the main roads as well as I found out January this year :( I also forgot to switch to my winter wheels which didnt help
No snow down here but I have a pair of Ice spiker tyres waiting to be used

[MattCollins]

Phhh, when does winter finish?

I got all kitted up to go out, knowing it would be cold I had lots of light layers on, just didn't realise my street would be sheet ice, I nearly fell just walking out the door, so the sensible option was taken, so kit off and back in the house :(



Maybe a wind/mag/fluid trainer?

[carelesschucca]

I might have to get myself a trainer to get more miles in. I'm down at my parents house and I've just been told about The St Andrews Hospice Sportive (http://standrewshospicefundraising.com/cyclesportive/) thats happening on my local roads. I know I'm not even close to being able to complete it right now... But I'd love to get myself to a level that I can...

[fizzwheel]

But I'd love to get myself to a level that I can...

Just keep chipping away at it. You'll be surprised. Also the standard of fitness on sportives varies massively. There will be guys and girls who are faster than you, but there will also be people who are slower.

Also you wont notice your fitness steadily improving it sort of creeps up on you and then you find yourself flying after a while.

[Dipper]

I might have to get myself a trainer to get more miles in. I'm down at my parents house and I've just been told about The St Andrews Hospice Sportive (http://standrewshospicefundraising.com/cyclesportive/) thats happening on my local roads. I know I'm not even close to being able to complete it right now... But I'd love to get myself to a level that I can...

You've got 4 months so there's no reason why not, as Fizz says you wont be the quickest or slowest, if work on building up the distance you'll be surprised how fast you improve.

[carelesschucca]

I'm able to do about 20 odd miles in about 90 minutes at the moment but any more and I'm blowing out my ****. Suppose that's not bad for only having had a bike since the start of October.

I don't know the actual route for the Sportive but the profile (http://www.ratherbecyclingevents.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/St-Andrews-Hospice-Elevation.png) scares me as I recognize it right up to the red dot (its about a mile from my house)

I do think this is something to motivate me... I can see me having to do some major shifts so I can get more half days to get out there...

[fizzwheel]

Thats pretty good mileage and timewise, especially at this time of year.

Just remember, build yourself up to the distance in small increments, IIRC recommended is no more than 10% increase in mileage per week. ( I might be wrong on that )

What I'm trying to say if push to go to far or to fast to soon, you'll do yourself and injury, most probably a knee related injury, I've seen that a few times.

[carelesschucca]

I'm all over the place with mileages, Since last a week past Thursday I've managed 130km, the weather is the biggest issue. I so wanted to get out today but ice and two wheels doesn't mix.

Once again I've gotta say you guys have been brilliant. Bar giving me ideas of buying new toys already. I'm looking at this (http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/ribble-gran-fondo-52cm-sram-force-22-bike/ribbbikr645000000000) right now. Only £45 a month :)

On a different note I've been advised to get 'In search of Robert Millar' and 'Rough Ride' to keep me entertained.

[Dipper]

If you've not been to their website yet British Cycling (https://www.britishcycling.org.uk/knowledge/article/izn20140926-Training-Introduction-to-the-Beginners--Plan-0) have some great advice for beginners. Also worth taking a look at the GCN videos on Youtube.

[carelesschucca]

Thanks for that Dipper. Suppose you can see my Strava rides :)

I think this afternoon I've decided that the Sportive is my aim... I'll maybe even get myself sponsored by my work mates.

[maviczap]

I'm all over the place with mileages, Since last a week past Thursday I've managed 130km, the weather is the biggest issue. I so wanted to get out today but ice and two wheels doesn't mix.

Once again I've gotta say you guys have been brilliant. Bar giving me ideas of buying new toys already. I'm looking at this (http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/ribble-gran-fondo-52cm-sram-force-22-bike/ribbbikr645000000000) right now. Only £45 a month :)

On a different note I've been advised to get 'In search of Robert Millar' and 'Rough Ride' to keep me entertained.

If its that icy, then stay indoors, as nothing dents your fitness like a broken leg :p

There's quite a few deals on turbos at the moment although pays to get a half decent one, with variable resistance.

Doesn't take much money to have a Zwift or Trainer Road set up to beat the boredom factor of turbo work.

Ive got a couple of books youre welcome to read, I'll dig them out. Rough ride is ok, as is Robert Millars bio, but there's more entertaining ones out there.

[carelesschucca]

What's better rollers or a turbo trainer? Will I need to change tyres on both. I'm also worried about noise, if it's too loud I might end up having to ride in my olds garage to keep the peace.

[Dipper]

Thanks for that Dipper. Suppose you can see my Strava rides :)

No problem, yep ...you can't get away with anything now! ;)

I think this afternoon I've decided that the Sportive is my aim... I'll maybe even get myself sponsored by my work mates.

Good man, careful not to overdo the training though ...listen to your body.

[MattCollins]

What's better rollers or a turbo trainer? Will I need to change tyres on both. I'm also worried about noise, if it's too loud I might end up having to ride in my olds garage to keep the peace.

Trainer... If you come off rollers it's nasty. I'd have suggested a wind trainer, but their disadvantage is the noise, so looks like you'll be wanting mag or fluid.

[fizzwheel]

On a different note I've been advised to get 'In search of Robert Millar'

Thats a great read, another of my favourite cyclists.

I've not tried rollers, but I've seen alot of youtube fail videos at riding on them.

I'd like to try a pair, but TBH I'm gonna stick with my turbo trainer...

I dont bother with a turbo specific tyre, at the end of the season I just finish off the rear tyre I have been using on the turbo and then fling it in the bin come spring.

Noise can be an issue, but I have my setup on a matt which dampens the noise down. I have a mag trainer now which is louder than the fluid one I had before. So if you are concerned about noise iMHO you want a fluid one.

[maviczap]

Rollers are great for building core strength and developing good pedalling technique, but not novice friendly. You have to sit down all the time, thrres no sprinting or standing on the pedals.

Like Fizz I'd like to try some, and i will get some, but a mag or fluid trainers is the best budget option. My mate at work got an elite mag trainer, which he says is flippin hard on max gearing, which is good, because at least it can ramp the effort up, which some turbos can't.

[carelesschucca]

As you know Mav my heads everywhere trying to find a good way to increase my bike time. I still don't know which way to go. Weather is meant to be OK tomorrow so a short day it is. Crow Road beckons.
Gaffer is also away out on Wednesday so I fancy getting out again even if it is just 3 or 4 laps of Kilsyth in the dark.

[maviczap]

You do have the fever bad don't you :p

[carelesschucca]

YEP!!! I'm always bored in work this time of year, but I do longer days so I can escape. I wouldn't use the street this time of year so cycling wins.

OK I'm just an obsessive person, if I wasn't cycling I'd be thinking about organising GM2016 and that ain't happening.

[carelesschucca]

Well guys after all the searching and thinking I've just been informed that the service gym in my work has three Wattbikes that are there to be used.

The gym costs us £2 a month.... I'm there already... I'm gonna go and find out how to join...

Gonna save me a fortune... Today I'm a happy boy why buy a carpy cheap turbo trainew when I can use the best thing out there.

[TheRamJam]

For those interested

Specialized Rockhopper Disc, 19" frame size, in the for sale section.

here (http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?p=3033245#post3033245)

[maviczap]

Well guys after all the searching and thinking I've just been informed that the service gym in my work has three Wattbikes that are there to be used.

The gym costs us £2 a month.... I'm there already... I'm gonna go and find out how to join...

Gonna save me a fortune... Today I'm a happy boy why buy a carpy cheap turbo trainew when I can use the best thing out there.


Spend it on new bling:D

[carelesschucca]

Spend it on new bling:D

Ah, Wheels you say :D... I also fancy a really bright front light so I can get out in the dark and actually see the road...

It's more daft questions time. I did 35km yesterday on a fairly hilly route which was fine, but today I've woken to find the hooks of my thumbs (where you place your hands on the brake hoods) are blooming sore, I've had it couple of times. Question is will this get better over time or do I need to think about changing something?

[maviczap]

Should improve over time, relax your grip on the bars.

[TheRamJam]

What Mav says is good advice and its free :-)

Alternatively you can change your bar tape or get mitts. The bar tape on my Defy was really thin cheap stuff, and it was white, so i pulled it off and fitted some Fizik 3mm performance tape. Noticed an immediate difference in comfort not to mention how cooler the bike looked. It amazing how changing the bar tape transforms the look of he bike.

I also like to ride with mitts on. I have a pair of Specialized gel mitts. They have gel inserts at the pressure points to help with the numbness on longer rides.

[maviczap]

What Mav says is good advice and its free :-)

Alternatively you can change your bar tape or get mitts. The bar tape on my Defy was really thin cheap stuff, and it was white, so i pulled it off and fitted some Fizik 3mm performance tape. Noticed an immediate difference in comfort not to mention how cooler the bike looked. It amazing how changing the bar tape transforms the look of he bike.

I also like to ride with mitts on. I have a pair of Specialized gel mitts. They have gel inserts at the pressure points to help with the numbness on longer rides.

Yep, didn't think about gloves or mitts, as its always part of my riding kit.

As above, bar tape can also make a difference, although for me it hasn't been an issue, as I always have gel mits.

Another thing to consider is the postion of the shifters, if they're too far down the curve of the bar, you'll be putting too much weight on your hands & fingers, causing the soreness.

Also the drop from the saddle to the top of the bars, is that too much, putting extra weight on your hands?

If it doesn't settle down, then try adjusting some or all of the above.

[pookie]

Probably agree with all above. also when I started I wasn't very flexible and but the more I rode the racier the position and stronger the core plus less of the belly :). I change my stem for a while to be more upright and less stretched riding position ( kind of like the heli bars )

[Dipper]

Ah, Wheels you say :D... I also fancy a really bright front light so I can get out in the dark and actually see the road...

It's more daft questions time. I did 35km yesterday on a fairly hilly route which was fine, but today I've woken to find the hooks of my thumbs (where you place your hands on the brake hoods) are blooming sore, I've had it couple of times. Question is will this get better over time or do I need to think about changing something?

Gripping the bars tight and holding yourself up with your arms are both common for new cyclists, concentrate on holding your position using your core ....doing some core work will help your cycling no end.

[MattCollins]

Ah, Wheels you say :D... I also fancy a really bright front light so I can get out in the dark and actually see the road...

It's more daft questions time. I did 35km yesterday on a fairly hilly route which was fine, but today I've woken to find the hooks of my thumbs (where you place your hands on the brake hoods) are blooming sore, I've had it couple of times. Question is will this get better over time or do I need to think about changing something?

You might be trying to split your thumb and fore finger... which is a good way to sprain a thumb too...
The heel of your palm should be on top of the bars.
Hand horizontal on top of the hood as per attached file... then close your fingers around the hood.

[Dipper]

Love my commute, even in this crowded part of South East Essex there's some beautiful lanes ....beats the A127/M25 any day!

The new Thames Gateway port is behind the tree to the left Mav!

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1517436_1093445174021141_2932180208691799984_n.jpg ?oh=959e691c91330b1ae6e38fc19dbedf27&oe=56DEF9F7

[TheRamJam]

Some stems are reversible. Meaning fitted one way you'll have a 6 degree drop, but flip it around and its a 6 degree rise.

Experiment with both positions and see what is best for you. Have a look at the GCN youtube channel. There are some great videos on there regarding bike fit and how to get yourself in the ballpark.

I mostly ride on the hoods for general riding, if i am doing some fast descents then i'll get down on the drops.

[carelesschucca]

I'll have a check of my hands next time I'm out.

On the lights front I spotted this (http://www.highonbikes.com/products-of-the-month/smart-700-lumen-front-bike-light-usb-recheargeable.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAtMSzBRDs7fvDosLZm poBEiQADzG1vD03CFIQBt4sKSHvNBtNhWFYtCdLn0WcOglcUGo FUhAaAvJO8P8HAQ) any opinions from you guys, seems awfully cheap for something so bright.

[TheRamJam]

Not a fan of that. looks heavy and all that unnecessary bracketry.

I have this (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/lezyne-micro-drive-400xl-front-light/rp-prod138849) and its very good.

[Dipper]

This Can't go wrong with Lezyne. This (http://www.sportpursuit.com/super-drive-xl-front-light-black) looks good too.

[carelesschucca]

This Can't go wrong with Lezyne. This (http://www.sportpursuit.com/super-drive-xl-front-light-black) looks good too.
:D I have that Lezyne sitting in the basket ready to go... I'm annoyed that I procrastinated on the Lucas lights because I was gonna take one of them...

But that user bright Smart struck an interest.

[TheRamJam]

Silly question Dean

Am assuming you have a multitool, spare inner tubes, a pump, etc when you go out on you're rides?

[carelesschucca]

I have all the gubbins in a tophills underseat bag and the pump is under the frame.

Colin have you tried that light on unlit roads, I would be using it on country lane and roads so need as much lighting as I can get.

[TheRamJam]

Yeah on commutes i often cut through hogganfield loch which is pitch dark. It works well. I also have a flashing light on the front of my lid during the winter nights and just the one rear flashing light.

[carelesschucca]

It go's on the possible list then. Just checking & the 600 lumen version is on Wiggle for £48.

Who was it that warned me that this cycling lark is expensive? At least I've stopped looking at turbos and the gym membership has been sent away.

Some bad man has started me looking at his namesakes Aksium Elite wheels then I suddenly clicked if I did that I'd need to buy a cassette too. But it would mean I could put wider tyres on the original wheels and start commuting on the bike. :-D

[maviczap]

Love my commute, even in this crowded part of South East Essex there's some beautiful lanes ....beats the A127/M25 any day!

The new Thames Gateway port is behind the tree to the left Mav!

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1517436_1093445174021141_2932180208691799984_n.jpg ?oh=959e691c91330b1ae6e38fc19dbedf27&oe=56DEF9F7

I don't travel down that lane, I have the lovely A13 to get to the Gateway :(

Although its a little bit nicer than Tilbury, the Gateway is an odd place to visit, as was Coryton refinery. I get to go to all the nice places ;)

Nice picture Dipper

[MattCollins]

It go's on the possible list then. Just checking & the 600 lumen version is on Wiggle for £48.

Who was it that warned me that this cycling lark is expensive? At least I've stopped looking at turbos and the gym membership has been sent away.

Some bad man has started me looking at his namesakes Aksium Elite wheels then I suddenly clicked if I did that I'd need to buy a cassette too. But it would mean I could put wider tyres on the original wheels and start commuting on the bike. :-D

I have a Cateye Rapid X3 on the front and rear... They're USB rechargeable and output is 100lm... they can be seen a long way off. I've got the front so that I'm not that guy blinding or annoying everyone with the ridiculous 200lm (focused) output from either the Volt 800 or Volt 1600 in flash mode. They're about twice what most similar lights are putting out in flash mode so I only ever use them in continuous modes in low light conditions.
I've shielded the front X3 (bar mounted) with aluminium foil tape to protect myself too btw. It's bright enough that I find it more than a little annoying if it is in my field of view.

My GF has an X3 tail light (Volt 800 and X3 on the front) and it is really annoying to follow.

The Volt 1600 on full beam is a brilliant light and gives the confidence to downhill at 60kph plus. The one touch from full beam to the previous mode and back again is a nice touch... it makes me want a lever mounted button. Most of the time it is on the low or middles settings and battery life is very good... about 2hrs at 1600lm, 5hrs at 500lm and 15hrs at 200lm. Cateye lights seem run fairly close to the manufacturers claims.

The 800 is the light that gets the most use... 2hrs at 800lm, 3hrs+ at 500lms and 8hrs at 200lms. The hill that I'm usually coming down is well lit and well marked and it is picking up the crusty old markers (on an old freeway section that was replaced 20 years ago and no longer maintained) a kilometre away... and inspires confidence on the dark sections... I hold back a little, it's not the 1600 after all, but sometimes I surprise myself just how quickly I can scoot along with that light... up to about 50kph on the dark sections.

The "flextight" headlight brackets are very good and a plus for the headlights, is that when they are mounted under the bars they do not look up side down...

I'd recommend the Volt 800 headlight and Rapid X3 tail light if you were shopping the Cateye catalogue.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cateye-volt-800-rc-front-light/
http://www.wigglestatic.com/product-media/5360107645/volt800.jpg?w=430&h=430&a=7


http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cateye-rapid-x3-100-lumen-rear-light/
http://www.wigglestatic.com/product-media/5360107639/rapid%20x3.jpg?w=430&h=430&a=7


Probably preaching to the choir here...

The other thing to consider if you're doing a lot of night riding is reflectors.
Proper reflectors are the best... front, rear, spokes and pedals (if they have cages)... or reflective tape for stays, forks, a couple of dots on the rims and shoes plus iron on tape on your calves if you're wearing lycra longs (it doesn't need to look bad). 3M diamond grade (983) for the bike and 3M 8786 for clothing.
Reflectives on legs, dots on shoes and/or pedal reflectors are probably the best thing you can do to make yourself conspicuous from front and rear because there's motion... and it is a similar story for spokes or rims.There's no point in confusing motorists, because they'll probably go straight over the top of a cyclist while they're trying to work out what's going on. Best IMO to use standard colours, red on the back, white on the front, orange on the spokes or rims and orange on the pedals or legs.


It all works for me... "I didn't see you" is not a valid excuse when I'm lit up like a flashing and moving Christmas tree in a cars headlights.


PS. Ever noticed how many drivers get furtherest to the right after they've overtaken a cyclist? :confused:

[carelesschucca]

ATM I have the Lezyne Macro Drive 600lm and Zecto Drive rear ready in the Wiggle basket.

I do like the idea of extra reflecting strips I'd happily put them on the mudguards for extra luminescence. 3M scotchlite black would be great.

We got passed a few times on rural roads last week and the drivers were great.

I must have been cursed on Tuesday though, I passed an old boy in a ford fiesta on a downhill stretch because he was holding me up continually braking...

[MattCollins]

20lm is a bit dim. If you're into Lezyne you'll get better daytime visibility from something like this at 70lm:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lezyne-micro-drive-rear-led-light/
or this at 100lm:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lezyne-strip-drive-pro-rear-light-y9/
Personally, I'd go for the second one.

Yeah, most drivers are pretty good and to be fair to them I like to make sure I'm not making it difficult. A friendly wave just to let them know it is appreciated when they overtake quietly doesn't go astray either.

I've been touched up and leaned on already by a handful of the other 22% of our drivers who don't even see cyclists... No excuses and I ain't giving them any. They're the reason I have cameras on my bike. Some drivers are just belligerent towards cyclists.
Government and police are encouraging cyclists to use cameras and to report incidents on the road. It removes a lot of the he says, she says and they are actively trying to remove those drivers from the road. It's a good thing in my books.
The idiots also get a friendly wave (not the bird) if they look in the mirror, but it is to say "Yeah, I'm here... now pay attention you idiot!"

That hill that I'm usually climbing is a lot of fun to come down. The top half has an 80kph limit and we're with the cars if they're moving near the limit. The bottom half is a 60kph limit and because it is steep and twisty there'd usually be at least one car holding everyone up as we whistle down the double whites... Sometimes it gets a "Wha...!!!" reaction.
The other side of that loop used to be the lower part of a freeway (except that the freeway didn't start until the top, so we could ride the lower section) and we'd be in the right lane overtaking heavies and slower cars on the way down without holding anyone up. Now there's a cycle way for some of it and it is still fun racing the trucks to the bottom.

[MattCollins]

Fixt!

[carelesschucca]

He's playing that Magicroundabout tune again ;-)

[MattCollins]

Too much? Not interested? I can fix it you know... Just say the word.

[MattCollins]

Never mind... I floated the idea on a local group and got a whole bunch of useful replies. Direct drive middle gear, 25% increments in low range and 10% increments in the high range is the consensus.

Tomorrow will be my last ride for the year. The girls have sent out the invites for a ride (https://goo.gl/maps/dWpGAys5sto) over the hump, coffee and cake at The Port and home for steak and beer lunch. It looks like it's going to be a full house.
Monday I head home (https://goo.gl/maps/iEHNYCyxd9K2) with a group of other riders for our Christmas break and plan to be back on the 4th.

[carelesschucca]

Ah Matt I was joking :-(

There is so much I'm learning the now it's all good but a little bewildering.