View Full Version : Vintage film cameras
Would need to be really small. Worth looking into.
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I have a couple but they're designed for working on electrics rather than vehicles. Jewellery pliers would also be good
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160320/d3b73966f862b5eac8464c17f0a452b9.jpg
johnnyrod
20-03-16, 10:04 PM
If you're going to spend money then get the right tool, having used it now a number of times, it's well worth it. Pressing other things into service is doable, but not always, as you can see from the scratches. Pliers mainly work for the things that have slots rather than holes to undo e.g. screw rings, although you can use a pair of screwdrivers at a push, but it's tricky and you can't get much leverage.
Was wondering if anyone else was going to join this thread again!
Was thinking the same thing!
I dug this out of the loft. Thought you guys might be interested.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160322/2a56bfe1d7856a79ff3d9087f815cdf4.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160322/f14007ccb8385e1f5256f7ae1196afb6.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160322/b70c93dd59fa0d20421af379402e15ba.jpg
Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
Like a little spy cam. Can you even still get film?
Sent from my Xperia T
I've no idea. It's not Minox quality but still interesting. It's got a sticky shutter that needs attention before I put a film through it, if I can get some.
johnnyrod
22-03-16, 09:39 PM
Damn that is obscure, check this though
http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?threads/film-for-minolta-16.34974/
Interesting. Thanks for that.
the tool your looking for is called a pin wrench/spanner you can get adjustable ones. just make sure that the pins are the right size.
Thanks Bibio. Will take a look.
The Zeiss Contina arrived today. The shutter is jammed open. I have removed the lens/shutter from the body and need to figure where to go from here. Johnny, you are the Zeiss expert. Any ideas?
With the shutter disassembled,the blades lool like this.when cocked, they look normal.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160323/979a97afac7c1860d09b43e4f961ee52.jpg
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johnnyrod
23-03-16, 07:22 PM
Be careful as you have all the workings exposed! I'd have taken out the escapement etc. first to see where it's sticking, see if the ring that actuates them can move on its own. Can't tell from the pic, are the blades oily? They look like they may have opened too far. I presume they all look flat, nothing obviously stuck into each other?
The what now? The lens is still attached at the moment. Only cost a few quid so no biggie if I can't fix. What I don't get is that the blades are open in the uncocked position. Are the blades on wrong? Someone has been in there before me at some point.
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johnnyrod
23-03-16, 10:03 PM
Possibly. You'd need to go in from the front to get to the clockwork bits. What shutter has it got? The escapement times the shutter between opening and closing. The mainspring etc. will be in there too. It could be that either it's jammed for some reason, or the spring that closes the blades is broken. I do most of this stuff by seeing what's in front of me so it's not easy.
I see. Will need to get the front off as well then at some point. Its a Prontor SVS.
johnnyrod
24-03-16, 09:44 AM
http://pheugo.com/cameras/index.php?page=prontor
I found that site too. Right, red spring hooks onto screw through red hole. Not sure what yellow is supposed to be on:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/kenzie2k3/DSCF5518_zps8apkogmg.jpg (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/kenzie2k3/media/DSCF5518_zps8apkogmg.jpg.html)
johnnyrod
24-03-16, 09:35 PM
Something looks broken but it's hard to know what's going on TBH
Will keep trying. Have misplaced the small screw driver I need to get the focus grub screws undone. I have cocked the shutter and put the blades back on and they look right. However, when fired the shutter doesn't return to this position. Still no clue on how to put the Fuji Auto M back together.
Found my screwdriver. Managed to get the rest of it apart. Have given it a good hose down in lighter fluid and it seems to have freed something off. Will give it a couple more cleans and try putting it back together. I think it has something to do with the slow speed mechanism getting stuck.
yokohama
28-03-16, 03:03 PM
I've spent a wet monday going through some of my late father's stuff.
There's what seems to be a German made Agfa Billy Record. 1930s?? It looks to be ok. Timer and shutter work
Also an Ilford Dacora dignette. This one too looks ok and the shutter mechanism works. Both come with cases.
I hope I'm not breaking any forum rules re advertising but if any photography buff on here is interested before they go on ebay, send me a pm.
johnnyrod
31-03-16, 08:17 PM
Hi yoko, sorry didn't see your post till now. It's worth putting these on the B setting and doing the flashlight test. With the shutter open, shine a torch through, and see how clean the lenses are. Look from the side not direct in or all you'll see is a lot of light! If they look good then put that in the ads because there are a lot of grubby cameras out there, and ads with very little info.
Speaking of the bay of pigs, seen item 281987466687, interested Kenzie/anyone?
Tempting but I have just had a blow out on cameras. Just picked up a Fujia GE, a Olympus Pen and an Argus C3. Just fired off some shots with the AE-1 with the lens I just picked up as it is foggy this morning. The light was just about right so hoping they come out ok.
yokohama
01-04-16, 10:06 AM
Hi yoko, sorry didn't see your post till now. It's worth putting these on the B setting and doing the flashlight test. With the shutter open, shine a torch through, and see how clean the lenses are. Look from the side not direct in or all you'll see is a lot of light! If they look good then put that in the ads because there are a lot of grubby cameras out there, and ads with very little info.
Speaking of the bay of pigs, seen item 281987466687, interested Kenzie/anyone?
Thanks for the above info; it's a useful thing to know. I've a lens cleaning kit somewhere so I can use that to give me a better idea of the condition of the glass. I guess the only way to check is to put a film in and see what comes out but I'm not sure I'd ever get round to doing that.
johnnyrod
01-04-16, 11:30 AM
Don't clean any of the glass except with a bit of HAAAAAAAA breath and a soft cloth, even then I would only touch the front glass for now till you've tried it with a torch. If there is any fungus or grot it's likely to be inside anyway.
If the Dignette has a meter then you can check it for accuracy - or if it is a selenium one (no batteries) for any life at all. most of them that had cases tended to survive - the more use they got (light falling on them) the quicker they died. Even if you just compare it to the Sunny f16 rule you can get an idea of accuracy.
Shutters tend to slow down with age as a little grease or oil migrates onto the leaves and this creates a lot of drag when they are opening and closing. Likewise the timing gear (escapement FWIW) that regulates the gap between open and closed can stick, most noticeable on the longest shutter speeds. If these are working well then make sure you mention it. If you close the aperture down you should see if the blade look clean or have any smears - if there are then they'll be on the shutter leaves too.
Focus accuracy is more of a fiddle to check but you can do it on the B setting with something suitable taped where the film goes. Aperture wide open, distance of about 5-6 feet is good, measured from the film plane.
Film testing is the best way to give a buyer confidence but these are fairly cheap cameras so prob not worth your while, they'll sell anyway. 35mm is cheap now, £1 a roll from Poundland, developing for around a fiver at Asda. The 120 you'd need for the Agfa will be a bit more serious money - £5-7 plus £10 upwards to print. Film can be quite forgiving of bad exposure choices though so it's not always as good a test as you might think! Also a small aperture can cover up poor focus accuracy or some lens grot.
Some info here on one of them:
http://www.lomography.com/magazine/14008-dacora-dignette-super-e-b-a-time-traveller
yokohama
01-04-16, 01:23 PM
I don't think the Dignette has a meter or a rangefinder. It's a basic vario model with 3 shutter settings and B, manual aperture settings and a ring with distances on for focussing. The shutter seems to work fine on its different settings.
I'm not sure which model it is but I had a quick look on the web and it seems to be what the Ilford Sportsman was based on. Exactly the same as this but with a Dacora badge.
http://www.photomemorabilia.co.uk/Ilford/Sportsman_Style4.html
Bought a Vito B for the case. It has what is left of an address on the top. The camera itself has an iffy shutter. Sticks at all speeds. Dates to around 1955-56. Will transfer the top plate onto my other Vito B as it is dented. May repair the shutter tomorrow. Unless anyone fancies it? The Pen arrived today as well, film counter doesn't work as it looks like someone didn't realise it's a reverse thread.
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I stripped down the spare Vito B and gave the shutter mech a good hosing down with lighter fluid and it now seems to be working ok. Not sure what to do with it as I already have two Vitos.
FML, did it again. Whats the most important thing to have in a film camera when you go out shooting?
johnnyrod
02-04-16, 08:10 PM
Um, film? Now is that better or worse than leaving the lens cap on?
Re. the Vitos, if you don't need two then I would choose the one to sell, check its all working properly, shoot a film with it at some point, then you can sell it as working and film tested and you'll be the most popular mucker on ebay. I'm not a fan of viewfinder cameras so I'm not interested but someone else might be. I'm not much good at zone focusing, but also I tend to grab shots so not a lot of thinking time. I also find I've been using fairly low apertures (even at 200ISO) a lot of the time so not a lot of room for error (DoF).
Yep, film. That's twice! I had my Zorki 10, Auto 110, Envoy Wide with me so I wasn't short of cameras. The two usable Vitos I will keep but I bought one just for the case. This is the one with the sticky shutter. You should try zone focus, really easy. I sell trailers at work so can quickly guess distance. The power switch on my AE-1 has gone iffy but can't get the top off due to a rusty screw.
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yokohama
02-04-16, 10:04 PM
Johnnyrod, you're a baad maaan! :) You've got me intrigued by those cameras now. I've cleaned them both up and they're fine mechanically. The focus ring on the Record was stuck but after a while on top of the radiator, it loosened up ok.
I've dropped a film into the Dacora and I'll try to take some shots with it. It will be interesting to see what comes out.
On the focus ring, the numbers start at 1 and go 1.2; 1.5; 2; 2.5; 3; 4; 6; 10; infinity. It's a German camera so I'm guessing that's metres, not feet? (It cant focus down to a foot surely)
Get some photos up of what they are. Curious now. How can I get a smell out of a camera? The FED 4 that came with a joblot really smells musty. Can't seem to shift it.
yokohama
03-04-16, 10:34 AM
Here's the Billy. It's got a lovely musty, leathery smell.
http://forums.sv650.org/picture.php?albumid=1237&pictureid=7983
http://forums.sv650.org/picture.php?albumid=1237&pictureid=7985
http://forums.sv650.org/picture.php?albumid=1237&pictureid=7984
And the Dacora. I cant find out much about it other than it's the 3rd or 4th incarnation from about 1960.This one seems to be a pretty basic workhorse. I don't think its value is any more than £10-£15 and once ebay and paypal take their cut, it's hardly worth selling. I'll see what the images are like. If they're half-decent, I'll probably keep it.
http://forums.sv650.org/picture.php?albumid=1237&pictureid=7986
http://forums.sv650.org/picture.php?albumid=1237&pictureid=7987
Nice looking cameras. I have a Billy Clack 74 which is the same family I think. Started putting the spare Vito back together, will need it's focus setting though. I take it I need to set the focus to infinity and the rest should be ok?
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johnnyrod
03-04-16, 07:12 PM
I guess you missed the word "meter" on the front? But yes, you're right about it being metric. A common problem with Agfas is the grease in the focus thread going hard, the fix is as you've found, warm it up then you can get it apart and clean and re-grease it. The shutters are designed to run dry - the only lube is on the focus helix, maybe a touch on the shutter/aperture rings, and maybe the tiniest drops of watch oil for the mechanisms inside. For God's sake don't try spraying WD40 at anything to free it up! It may or may not sound obvious. Anyhoo if you can see the focus helix then by all means clean it off and re-grease it (sparingly), if not then just see how you get on. Looks good otherwise but I can't really see the lens glass - if there is haze or grot on the rearmost (nearest the film) it'll have the greatest effect on the picture sharpness. Also looks like it still has an old metal spool in it, not a modern plastic one. Anyway it's a 6x9 so you'd get 8 pics on a roll of 120 film. These make good landscape cameras as they give such a big negative, the equivalent of about 120-150 megapixels. The clarity of a big print really needs to be seen to be believed.
Dacora looks nice and clean, think you're right about price. I wouldn't expect amazing things from it to be honest, maybe more of a vintage look to the pics!
Smells, um. I usually wipe these things all over (inc. leather, quickly!) with isopropanol. The smell might not go though. It's "character"! Just make sure it's clean before you actually put it up to your eye...
Oh it's clean all right. Even baby wiped it! Leaves a smell on my hands after handling it. It's not high on my list to shoot with.
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johnnyrod
03-04-16, 09:29 PM
Decided to make the Contessa LBE I have work. Got the escapement and self-timer soaking in hexane overnight, seem to have dislodged something that makes the aperture work, will find out what later. Tell you what, it's a hell of a lot easier to work on than a Super Ikonta! Shutter speed range is limited but is 1/15-1/500 so fine really. Am planning to shoot with it when done and probably sell it, was a bit daft to buy it but was only a tenner so will make a few quid. Tessar f2.8 lens so pics should look good! Need to finish it first...
Just keep it. You will end up like me with two crates of cameras!
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johnnyrod
04-04-16, 03:31 PM
Nah I have too many and I don't really like having stuff that I don't use. I have a Contessa LKE which is very similar but without a hot shoe and without the auto flash aperture, though I like it more, and also a Contessamat SBE which is the same but with shutter-priority auto exposure. All three have the same lens so nothing to choose from there.
Got the shutter and aperture done, just need to clean the glass and put it back together, also test the shutter times. I'm not sure if they're adjustable, found out in a larger Compur shutter that you can alter the position of the escapement slightly to adjust the shutter speeds. The rangefinder needs looking at, either cleaning or maybe see if I can swap some bits from a donor camera I have, then collimate it all and stick some film in it.
How do you go about collimating them? I will need to do the Vito B at some point.
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johnnyrod
04-04-16, 05:26 PM
You need to use the aperture wide open for smallest depth of field. Most people seem to collimate at infinity either direct or by back-focusing, but for me it has too many pitfalls, not least of which is even the minimal DoF at f2.8 is quite sizeable at infinity. So I do it at about 5ft/1.5m as the DoF is very shallow and you can get the focus spot on because of that. I use a spare split image screen from an SLR camera, but you would be fine with a piece of ground glass or similar. Stick it on the film plane and examine it with a magnifying glass. Adjust the distance to be exactly 5ft/1.5m depending on your focus scale, measured from the film plane - some cameras have a mark on the top housing indicating where this is. Use a subject that is flat and high contrast - I use a monochrome text poster on my laptop screen. It also makes it easy to adjust the rangefinder at the same time.
For 120, the focus screen is too small so I've made a bit of cardboard to attach it to. Cut a piece the size of the film. Cut a large hole in it. Cut another piece of card larger than the hole, with a smaller hole in it, and stick them together. Stick the focus screen to this so it sits inside the larger hole (i.e. that side of the smaller piece), now it will be in the same plane as the film as you've cancelled out the thickness of the cardboard.
So the object/text I am focusing on needs to be at 1.5m from the camera? I can rob the focus screen from the MV that keeps jamming on me. Etsy have loads of cameras for sale if you want to expand your collection?
Quiff Wichard
04-04-16, 07:31 PM
My new toy has arrived!
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/06/6dbc29df89d7ea32030295b59ffe882f.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/06/67d4c15bb54e6df89774c1a1b9371d32.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/06/dca35561a21def618b2e7bfbc5c182ec.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/06/05969d05ffc92341a474e8798882c896.jpg
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I found something like that in my dads loft
Get a shot up. Trying to get everyone to shoot at least a bit of film!
johnnyrod
04-04-16, 07:53 PM
Shiny!
Yep 1.5m of 5ft, look here
http://assets.catawiki.nl/assets/2014/6/14/7/1/3/71393bec-f3bd-11e3-8265-40ec1e9fe26f.jpg
the circle/line marks the position of the film plane. Put the prism side of the focus screen towards the lens. I have found it might focus maybe 5cm shorter than it says so maybe set the focus to 1.45m when it's really 1.5m, but it's not so much as to give a problem if you ignore that part. Maybe I just didn't do a good job of adjusting it or the rangefinder.
The cameras on Etsy seem pretty pricey usually. I bought the Contessamat from Analog Today on there, it needed a damn good clean, but the guy was totally unaware. Not sure it offers any more confidence that ebay! My best bargains have been off Gumtree.
yokohama
04-04-16, 07:54 PM
Get a shot up. Trying to get everyone to shoot at least a bit of film!
I shot half a roll on the Dacora yesterday. It's ages since I manually used shutter and aperture settings so I'm not expecting great results. I can't get used to the shutter button being on the front either. I'll try to finish it off next time I'm out on the bike.
johnnyrod
04-04-16, 08:10 PM
There is the Sunny f16 rule, I made a little card with a table on it, or you can use Pocket Light Meter on iphone/ipad. Often it's enough to figure out your exposure at home then just go with it. If in doubt, overexpose a stop or two, so the lowlights aren't lost.
yokohama
04-04-16, 08:24 PM
I'd never thought of a light meter smartphone app; that's something to check out. Thanks.
I based everything on the sunny 16 idea. Shutter speed is either 200 or 50 so I went for a 200 ASA film with shutter at 200 and just reduced the f stop depending on the light. I tried a few shots at 50 shutter speed anyway just to experiment but I'm expecting them to be blurry. I'll post anything worthwhile once the film is finished.
I can't get used to the shutter button being on the front either.
The King Penguin I own is like that. The shutter release is right on the top of the lens.
yokohama
04-04-16, 08:42 PM
The King Penguin I own is like that. The shutter release is right on the top of the lens.
How do you keep that steady? - or do you use a cable release?
Its hard to explain. I hold the base of the camera in my left palm with the fold out door resting on my fingers. Then with my right hand I use my middle finger for the shutter release with my other fingers resting on the struts (keeping away from the lens of course)
Kind of like this:
http://www.marriottcameras.co.uk/instructions/nettar_8on/with_pictures.htm
Damn, seems I can't take out the MV screen as easy as I did with the OM10. You have to take the whole top off and remove the pentaprism. Will just use the OM10 screen I think!
johnnyrod
05-04-16, 09:39 PM
Well got the Contessa back in almost one piece, need to sort out collimation and look at the rangefinder. Still some spots on the lenses I can't seem to shift. Shutter speeds are all closer than any of the others, 1/400 is near enough to 1/500.
Hey Johnny, fancy a Vito B? Can't seem to get it back together and set the focus. Driving me up the wall. You may have better luck.
johnnyrod
11-04-16, 08:54 AM
I'll try sorting it out if you like, will PM you my address.
johnnyrod
11-04-16, 12:11 PM
PS if you want to send the Contina as well I'll give it a look, can't promise anything
Right, I have gathered everything together and will box up and post out tomorrow. The only thing I couldn't find is the metal pin to set the shutter on the Contina.
johnnyrod
11-04-16, 08:27 PM
It'll work or not, you can always stick it back in if you're lucky
johnnyrod
14-04-16, 08:22 PM
Got home tonight, looked in the box. Um... going to need some patience! Will look at the Contina first as it should be one that quickly resolves itself into good or bad. There is a little fungus on the lenses but I'll be careful this time! The Vito is interesting as to how the shutter comes off, maybe it's all done from the front. On many of the Zeiss ones, and MF ones, you can detach the entire assembly from the camera by going into the film chamber, but it doesn't look like it on this.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160415/759e5c82fa40caeb4dc16226643126b3.jpg
Sent from my Xperia T
The Vito B inner lens is held in place by the curved plates to the focus ring which then screws into the camera. Once focus is set you tighten the three screws. The front element is the screwed in and the rest of the trim put on. Didn't realise the Contina had fungus, is it salvageable? If not, no worries. I know what you mean about how the Vito comes apart. I have a Kodak Retinette and you can pop the whole lot off after unscrewing the retaining ring.
johnnyrod
15-04-16, 08:45 AM
Thanks.. It's not too bad, you could probably get away with using it, but it'll only spread.
johnnyrod
15-04-16, 10:26 PM
Nah been down the pub and loaded up with crispy duck. Oh yeah, work etc.
Nah been down the pub and loaded up with crispy duck. Oh yeah, work etc.
Only kidding! Mmmmm, crispy duck.
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johnnyrod
16-04-16, 06:20 PM
Well, my curiosity got the better of me and I had a look at the Contina. The escapement was sticking a bit, it's all pretty gungy in there, also the self-timer selector seems to get stuck at V due to the flash contacts inside. I haven't figured out a way round that yet other than blocking off the V option, as it seems to be doing what it should. A couple of the followers on the escapement were mangled, I broke one off in the end, someone's probably strongarmed the shutter speed dial. It basically works now, but there is a screw missing off the shutter blade housing, the VXM switch sticks at V if you try, the main front plate is missing so I can't reassemble it, a small spring fell out from God knows where (I seem to remember seeing it, I don't think it's a problem, unless it's somehow related to the VXM selector), and there's a lens missing from the viewfinder so it's pretty useless. Does some of this sound familiar? Is it worth trying to finish? The speeds sound okay, not sure if you found the pin for the shutter co-cking shaft?
I knew the viewfinder lens was missing. Will check my desk for the plate but if it's borked then you may as well bin it or keep it for spares. I knew it may not have been salvagable.
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johnnyrod
16-04-16, 08:48 PM
Up to you, I could fix it at X only so no M or self-timer and you could put the rest of it back together but you'd have to collimate it. I hardly ever use the self-timer anyway and some people don't on old cameras in case it jams then you're fairly buggered. First time I've seen bent bits inside. There are a good few of these around (many with meters), I daresay many of them need a clean, I haven't had a look yet at the Ikonta 35 I've got on the shelf, similar but folding.
Got my latest pix back. Some good ones (plus some crap ones) from the Pentax f1.2 50mm lens, will have to get around to scanning a few. It should be 2.5 stops brighter than an f2.8 but it seems like more. Also the ye olde film that was in the Certo folding camera when I bought it, I got it developed only as I didn't know if there would be anything on it. Two original pictures, gap in the middle where it was sat for years, then the ones I took, a bit dim but will try to scan the negatives to see if they're usable. I'm going to get the first two printed and send them off to the people I bought the camera from. It was the lady's grandfather, though she was in her 50s I guess. The film was Kodak Verichrome "safety" film i.e. little or no response to red light, made from 1931 until about 1953. The camera dates from 1937, so God knows how old the film is. Later rather than earlier I suspect, from the pictures. I got the backing paper back, might use it for something arty farty.
What would cause the defect on this shot rainbow above the arch:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160416/5458e2813a40575c8c2d58868d3c6062.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160416/2aaf7c10915b6981c5aa5d83b6d7a4bd.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160416/83ebf692aa682b0d4abff011a7563b66.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160416/ab76344ed866cd819b20717c1031eada.jpg
Taken with spare OM10
Sent from my Xperia T
Post up the shots. Wouldn't be able collimate it myself. Can send you the front plate if I find it. I never touch the self timers as they are more hassle than they are worth. Off to the boot sale tomorrow for some camera hunting. I found some verichrome in the Kodak Vecta. Had someone's grab and dog on it.
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Just found the front plate for the Contina. I wouldn't worry about fixing it, seeing as the view finder is missing and the availability of other cameras. You can keep it if you want? I will send the front plate if you wanted to put it back together?
Going for a walk in Woodbridge and along the river Deben today so I am going to have a medium format day. Taking the Kodak Starflash, Ansco Speedex and the Diana F+ to get some landscape and river shots.
This group may interest you Johnny: https://www.flickr.com/groups/verichrome/
johnnyrod
17-04-16, 08:30 PM
Not sure about the rainbow, sure you don't have any light leaks? Could be a sliver, diffracting, but seems unlikely. Were they both with the same lens?
Up to you about the Contina, I can fix it on X only and put it back together, you'd have to figure out a viewfinder, but you could attach an accessory rangefinder and use that, or there are some accessory viewfinders, and figure out who good the coverage is. If you want to then put the plate in the post, if not I'll just put it to one side.
Any scores at the flea market?
Flickr group - thanks. Might see if someone could date the film. I scanned a few from the Pentax:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1611/26216077360_2a44eaf733_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/FWCfrN)Tilly (https://flic.kr/p/FWCfrN) by John Rodriguez (https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikeguruuk/), on Flickr
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1596/26216091270_dd894c7c5a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/FWCjzC)Swing2 (https://flic.kr/p/FWCjzC) by John Rodriguez (https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikeguruuk/), on Flickr
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1500/26488950935_137e998a08_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GmJNfB)Ana in furs (https://flic.kr/p/GmJNfB) by John Rodriguez (https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikeguruuk/), on Flickr
The last one really shows the bokeh of this lens, i.e. how it renders the out-of-focus bits. Actually looks loads better on the print, seems to have gone a bit blurry(er). The large aperture enabled me to get pics I wouldn't normally be able to - the dog was at 1/30th, if this were f2.8 it'd be a shutter speed of 1/4 and I'd need a tripod and a miracle.
My wife suggested using our ipad as a light box so I managed some less-crap scans of the Verichrome. It confirmed really what I knew, the reciprocity failure went up enormously and only a few are worth printing. Will get them done in due course though. I don't bother with post-processing so don't really need a negative scanner, I guess it's not so good at print scanning either though even at 1200dpi so maybe I'll think about it for Christmas!
I'll post you the front plate. I have an add on rangefinder that I can use. Got some film to send off. Great shots by the way. Let me know how much return postage will be. Didn't g in the end to the boot sale.
Sent from my Kindle Fire
johnnyrod
17-04-16, 09:36 PM
Spotted a job lot of basically garbage on Gumtree, had a few moments of excitement as there was a Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta B in there, but on closer inspection it's properly scrap. Poo.
Don't worry about postage, I've got a Vito!
Have you played with it yet? Verichrome dates from 1931-1956. Would be interested in seeing the scans.
Sent from my Kindle Fire
I have packed up the faceplate and will post today. I also found a shutter pin and it is in the blue electrical tape.
johnnyrod
18-04-16, 10:30 AM
Cool ta. No, not looked at the Vito yet. My dad is coming from Spain in a few days and I found I may have mucked up the collimation of my Mess Ikonta, so I want to look at that as well. Something funny about figuring out where the film plane lies in some Ikontas, at least I remember I adjusted it 3" closer at 5ft so I could just adjust it back. Most of the time I was using quite small apertures anyway so it's almost a moot point but I'd rather be sure of what I've done.
Yeah, same lens on the OM10. Doesn't appear in all shots which makes me wonder if its lens flare.
johnnyrod
18-04-16, 07:13 PM
Meant to ask, can you see it on the negatives or just the prints?
Can't see it on the negs. They were scanned with the Canon Canoscan 8400F but I have just rescanned the three shots with my Veho VFS002 and they have gone. All I can assume is that it was a scanning issue and refracted light during the scan. Maybe the neg wasn't completely flat.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/kenzie2k3/2016-04-18_0_zpsafrycdk9.jpg (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/kenzie2k3/media/2016-04-18_0_zpsafrycdk9.jpg.html)
Just ordered some colour 127 film, not cheap but really want to give it a go. Will treat the Bilora Bella 44 to this roll. Also respooled some Lomo 400iso 120 onto 620 spools to run through the Sabre 620. One of the rolls I shot yesterday was on a 620 spool but I rolled it back onto a 120 so I don't lose the highly valuable 620 one.
So, what do you think of the Vito then?
johnnyrod
18-04-16, 08:07 PM
Still not looked at it, it's going to sit there for a little while I'm afraid. I'll get it out and have a look at it in the morning I think. I'm trying to figure out the glass in the Contessa LBE I just did, see if I can shift the surface markings, or decide if they're okay just to use as is. Would like to finish the job and put a film in it but I think the fungus has etched the glass a bit. It's hard to tell sometimes what's going on, fungus can do that. And I'd like to clean up the Certo MF as well. Like I have nothing better to do!
You could see if they'll send you the spool back, I asked for the backing paper to be returned from the Verichrome and they sent it with the pics, complete with spool still attached.
Seen these?
https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=how+to+make+127+film
Far better to lose a 120 than a 620. It takes less than a minute to respool. Thankfully not encountered too much fungus it my collection. The original lens in the Fujica GER had fungus but I think that is the only one.
Sent from my Xperia T
Had a Halina 35x arrive and just bought a Yashica FX-D. The Halina has a sticky focus issue so may need cleaning. I have a film tested Olympus OM10 available if anyone is interested with 50mm lens?
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johnnyrod
20-04-16, 08:35 PM
Although this is a bit of a two-man show with the occasional cameo, I'm hoping there are a few lurkers as well on this thread. Get involved! I often peruse the listings of the Bay of Pigs and Gumtree, and as I'm tight-fisted I do like a bargain. This doesn't have to be expensive.
You want SLR so you can see what you're going to get, and the option of a different length lens? Get an older M42 lens type and there are tons of good things out there for under £20 (just make sure you get open aperture metering). Want to be like Peter Parker? Get a Yashica Electro or similar, all you have to do is focus. Can't be bothered to focus? There are auto-focus cameras out there (I believe!), or get an Olympus XA2 or 3 - they're the same but the XA3 is cheaper, and the lens is tiny but amazing.
Poundland for film, £5 at Asda for prints (but ideally spend a bit more if you want them to look nice), and if you change your mind, you can just sell it all for the same as what you paid for it - more if you can show you've taken usable pics. Any of these options will give way better pictures than the point-and-shoot crap you might associate with film photography on a budget.
Fungus isn't so bad to shift, it's whether it's knackered the lens already, which is hard to tell. My Contessamat had layers of it on all glass surfaces, and it cleaned up no problem. The Contessa LBE seems to be pitted, and the rear lens of the Contessa LKE was etched all over (somehow). I've done what I can with the Contessa LBE glass, the rest of it is fully working, so stuck a film in it and will just have to see how it turns out. Your latest additions sound good. The OM10 is ideal for someone to have a go with, Olympus make great lenses.
I hope there is more than just us here as well. Would be great to see other people's work. I do actually own an XA3 and can attest to its compactness and great lens. XA3 is same as XA2 but with DX coding ability.
I've been reading this thread with great interest. I've had nothing useful to contribute but learning lots. I guess others are too
Wasn't sure if anyone else was interested. Glad to know that there is. What happened to the other guy with the Decora?
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yokohama
21-04-16, 07:48 AM
Wasn't sure if anyone else was interested. Glad to know that there is. What happened to the other guy with the Decora?
Sent from my Kindle Fire
I'm still reading the thread.
I've put half a film through the Dacora - need to get out and finish it off.
johnnyrod
21-04-16, 01:59 PM
It takes me ages to finish a film!
Tried to take the Halina apart. God only knows what they put in it but the grease is so sticky. Can't get it apart to access the threads and also managed to accidentally dismantle the aperture. Opps. Will look again when I am less tired!
johnnyrod
21-04-16, 07:07 PM
Try leaving it on the radiator to warm up
These are from the Kodak Flashmite Six 20 when we went walking around Woodbridge last week
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/kenzie2k3/Untitled-Scanned-10_zpssm01zkab.jpg (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/kenzie2k3/media/Untitled-Scanned-10_zpssm01zkab.jpg.html)
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/kenzie2k3/Untitled-Scanned-09_zps5s7tnxrg.jpg (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/kenzie2k3/media/Untitled-Scanned-09_zps5s7tnxrg.jpg.html)
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/kenzie2k3/Untitled-Scanned-03_zpskq4dst7f.jpg (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/kenzie2k3/media/Untitled-Scanned-03_zpskq4dst7f.jpg.html)
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/kenzie2k3/Untitled-Scanned-02_zpsg5akosdy.jpg (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/kenzie2k3/media/Untitled-Scanned-02_zpsg5akosdy.jpg.html)
From the Kershaw King Penguin
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/kenzie2k3/Untitled-Scanned-03_zps9aunxvid.jpg (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/kenzie2k3/media/Untitled-Scanned-03_zps9aunxvid.jpg.html)
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg268/kenzie2k3/Untitled-Scanned-04_zpsjxqkch2c.jpg (http://s250.photobucket.com/user/kenzie2k3/media/Untitled-Scanned-04_zpsjxqkch2c.jpg.html)
Going to try again for the boot sale tomorrow as long as the weather holds!
It takes me ages to finish a film!
Not if you are me! Click like mad with 35mm but a bit more restrained with 120 due to cost. Ordered a pack of Impossible SX-70 for the Polaroid as they had an extra 10% off.
Made it to the bootsale and had a good day. Found cased Polaroid 1000, a Zenit EM with Helios 44M, a FED 4 and a 70-300mm Vivitar lens for the OM10. Guess how much.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160424/463dfba7d10294a0a4f010d0aa7be884.jpg
Sent from my Xperia T
johnnyrod
24-04-16, 10:01 PM
Paaaahnd (each, in the words of Stacy Solomon)
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